To Band Or Not To Band

[ofafeather]

I have a Charatan Executive estate pipe that I picked up know that there was a hairline crack in the shank. The crack is so fine that it’s really not visible unless you know exactly where to look. I had to use a loupe to find it originally and the photo below is 5x then zoomed more. The crack goes all the way through.

So...what to do? It’s probably fairly stable right now and if I’m not removing the stem constantly may last a good long while. A band would destroy the nomenclature but give a fully stable repair. A bandless repair could work but they have potential to fail over time.

What are your thoughts?

 

[PaulTheScandinavian]

Were In Your place I'd consider banding with sterling silver or Gold plated,though in this very model band would not look that cool like if the pipe had bulldog like shank or if it was the straight stem model

 

[Cotton1]

I think I would consider a black band. Maybe that would shore it up and keep it looking similar to original if the band blends with the stem.

 

[sablebrush52]

Banding is really low tech. RonnieB came up with a fix that is bandless and leaves the shank stronger than when it was new. George Dibos does it and there's a repair up in Canada that offers it as well. Essentially, the shank aitway is enlarged enough for the insertion of a surgical grade stainless tube that is cemented into place. The crack is glued, clamped and stabilized. The result is invisible and structurally stronger than the original.

 

[BROBS]

Banding is really low tech. RonnieB came up with a fix that is bandless and leaves the shank stronger than when it was new. George Dibos does it and there's a repair up in Canada that offers it as well. Essentially, the shank aitway is enlarged enough for the insertion of a surgical grade stainless tube that is cemented into place. The crack is glued, clamped and stabilized. The result is invisible and structurally stronger than the original.

Either this or just a drip of superglue in the crack and lightly clamp it. Then polish the tenon a tiny bit if it fits tightly. With a drip of glue and wiping any excess after clamping it should be nearly invisible.

 

[sablebrush52]

Either this or just a drip of superglue in the crack and lightly clamp it. Then polish the tenon a tiny bit if it fits tightly. With a drip of glue and wiping any excess after clamping it should be nearly invisible.

That will work but not as a permanent fix. The same stresses, changes in temperature and humidity, removing the stem for cleaning, etc will still be going on and the crack will eventually re-emerge. If the pipe isn't used often and you have a short horizon, a few years, for how long you want the problem to be delayed this would do just fine.

 

[ofafeather]

Either this or just a drip of superglue in the crack and lightly clamp it. Then polish the tenon a tiny bit if it fits tightly. With a drip of glue and wiping any excess after clamping it should be nearly invisible.

I thought about that. I could probably do that myself but would most likely have to open the crack to get some glue beyond the surface. Am hesitant to risk cracking the shank more.

 

[BROBS]

I thought about that. I could probably do that myself but would most likely have to open the crack to get some glue beyond the surface. Am hesitant to risk cracking the shank more.

I usually stick the stem in, move it to the side a tiny to open the crack, and put the drip in. Then remove the stem, clamp, and wipe excess.

then polishing the tenon stops it from happening again. I agree with @sablebrush52 that it will crack again without removing microscopic amounts from the tenon. But by doing this you are removing the stress that caused the crack. Often you’ll see a lot of oxidation come off the tenon on a pipe where the shank cracked like this.

obviously this has to be done with care so you don’t remove too much off the tenon making it loose.

I have a pipe repaired like this (actually 2 of them) and going on 1-2 years they are holding up just fine using the method I outline above. I guess I’ll find out if they crack again!

 

[hoosierpipeguy]

I thought about that. I could probably do that myself but would most likely have to open the crack to get some glue beyond the surface. Am hesitant to risk cracking the shank more.

Don't. As sable said, that's not a permanent fix. I like his suggestion to have an insert installed. That will be a permanent fix and not disturb the aesthetics of the pipe.

 

[jpmcwjr]

I would consider leaving it be until and unless the crack widens. And, indeed, take a tiny bit off the tenon.

By consider in this case I mean it is another option.

 

[ofafeather]

Sent @georged a PM. Figured might as well get some info. Anyone have other contact form him? Not sure how often he is on here.

 

[ofafeather]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

 

[sablebrush52]

Sent @georged a PM. Figured might as well get some info. Anyone have other contact form him? Not sure how often he is on here.

Are you asking for George’s email?
PM me and I’ll give it to you.

 

[ofafeather]

Per George, the internal insert is a no with this pipe. The shank is too thin and crack too long. I’ll probably try to glue repair at some point. Thanks for your help.