Things of Beauty: Antique American Pocket Watches.

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mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,448
7,428
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
Nowadays, Switzerland is rightly considered the home of quality timepieces but in the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, America was the place to buy quality, accurate watches, particularly pocket watches.

This was mainly due to the railroads and the need for super accurate timekeeping. If you have two trains using the same track and heading towards each other, the driver of one train needs to know precisely when he has to pull into a siding to allow the other train to pass. Sadly this was only fully realised and acted upon after several disastrous collisions that took many lives.

Several ‘railroad standards’ were introduced over the years that set ‘railroad grade’ watches apart from your every day pocket watch. These standards varied from being lever set which involved removing the front bezel and flipping out a tiny lever so the time could then be corrected before setting the lever back & replacing the bezel (this was so as the time of the watch couldn’t accidentally be altered whilst in the pocket), to the watch being placed in an open case (no hunter cases allowed), and the dial furnished with bold Arabic numerals for visual clarity are just some examples that were introduced over the years.

These watches were checked either every week or every fortnight by a railroad watch inspector and records were kept for everyone’s watch. If your watch was out of time you were given a loaner watch until yours had been adjusted (by the railroad company's own watchmaker) to correct timekeeping which was set at +/-30 seconds per week maximum deviation. This equates to just over 4 seconds deviation per day. To put that into perspective, a modern Rolex (costing thousands) is claimed to be accurate within +/- 3 seconds per day.

The later railroad grade watches were finely adjusted in various (maximum 6) positions, such as crown up, crown down, dial up, dial down etc, they were also tested at various levels of temperature as extreme heat or cold will affect a timepiece’s accuracy. All these tests took time & considerable skill to perform. This is why a railroad grade watch was considered a better quality watch and was priced accordingly.

A lot of these pocket watches, both railroad grade and ‘regular’ watches were beautifully decorated on the backs of the movements. Damascening was one method used to beautify these pieces and some watches were decorated to exquisite levels. Incised, engraved and decorated with contrasting metals….such as gold on nickel, some of these have to be seen to be believed, craftsmanship of the highest order. To get that sort of quality decoration nowadays, one would have to have pretty deep pockets! Some even have decoration in places where only a watchmaker will ever see!

Unfortunately many people who have a pocket watch with a choo choo train engraved on the case back assume they have a railroad grade watch, this is not necessarily so, the only way to be sure is to check the unique serial number on the movement and go to one of the many websites that will tell you all you need to know about your watch, model, grade, year of manufacture etc and whether it is a railroad grade or not.

It’s worth pointing out that back in the day, if one wanted to buy a new pocket watch, railroad grade or not, one visited the local jewellery shop & first selected which movement suited both their eye and their budget, then selected the case for that movement (usually based upon cost alone) and the dealer would match the pair right there and then for the buyer.

I have quite a collection of American pocket watches (Swiss & English too), both railroad grade & regular everyman’s watches. Here and on the next page are a few of my favourites.

Hamilton 992 from 1925. Size 16s, 21 jewel R/R grade watch. This watch has a gold centre wheel & gold screw down sapphire jewel settings, a top quality piece that keeps excellent time.

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Hamilton 992B from 1967 (my most ‘modern’ piece). Again, size 16s, 21 jewels & R/R grade. It is cased in a Keystone Boss 10K gold filled case and is in mint condition and an excellent timekeeper. One unusual feature of this watch is the dial is made of melamine & not the usual enamel on brass. First picture shows the front bezel removed & the setting lever extended at the 6 minute position.

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Waltham grade Crescent Street model 1892. This size 18s 19 jewel R/R grade watch from 1904 is a beauty, not least because it has a gold exhibition caseback revealing the beautiful workings of the movement. It has an unusual dial inasmuch as it is a 24 hour dial (often called a Canadian dial) that displays both Roman & Arabic numerals.

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Illinois Watch Co. grade 65 (Army & Navy) made for the 'Washington Watch Co.' Size 18s, 21 jewels in gold settings from 1917. This very heavy watch sits in a nickel case that buffs up super shiny in seconds, another favourite. Very difficult to photograph is the exquisite damascene decoration on the movement with gold highlights which really sparkles in the light. This has the ‘whip’ regulator that I find easiest to adjust. Incidentally the Washington Watch Company was a fictitious name used for watches made by the Illinois Watch Company to be sold exclusively by a company called Montgomery Ward. These were mostly high grade watches.

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More to follow.

Regards,

Jay.
 

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mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,448
7,428
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
Part 2.

Waltham grade 625 from 1908. Size 16s, 17 jewels in gold settings. This is not R/R grade but still a quality piece with gorgeous decoration on the nickel movement. Unusually it is cased in an English 10ct rolled gold case with a 20 year wear guarantee.

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Waltham grade 630 model 1899 from 1904. Again, not a R/R grade watch but unusual as it has a 24 hour dial (often referred to as a Canadian dial). Size 16s and 17 jewels, solid gold centre wheel and ‘star’ regulator, housed in a silver case.

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Waltham Royal. Model 1897 from 1902, non R/R grade piece. A sweet watch at size 14s, 17 jewels in gold settings and silver case. A bit of a rarity as it’s from a run of 250 pieces out of a total of 2,000.

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Elgin grade 27 ‘B. W. Raymond’ size 18s, 17 jewels dates from 1897. This weighty railroad grade watch has beautiful engraving work on the nickel movement, again, only appreciated in the right light. A hunting movement in a silveroid swing out case. It has a very fiddly Moseley regulator.

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Regards,

Jay.
 

mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,448
7,428
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
Part 3.

Waltham grade 45. Size 18s, 17 jewels in gold settings this Railroad Grade watch was made between 1896-1900. This is actually a very rare watch, it is one of only 300 of this ‘non magnetic’ type in hunting configuration. It also has a rare & unusual dial with the seconds bit at the 3 o’clock position. Here’s some blurb from the sale of the watch which explains it better.

“This particular watch is from the single run of 300 hunter movements (7013701 - 701400). For some reason the original buyer wanted an open face version but one wasn't available so Waltham equipped the movement with a rare factory conversion dial so that the watch could be wound at the 12 o'clock position like a normal open face watch which meant that the seconds sub dial is positioned at the 3 o'clock position rather than the normal 6 o'clock position”.

Superbly decorated, even under the balance wheel, it sits in a ‘Fortune’ rolled gold case.

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Burlington Watch Co grade 174. Made by the Illinois Watch Company in 1907. It has 19 jewels and is size 16s. A hunting movement (non R/R grade) housed in a rather worn Keystone 10K rolled gold case. Sadly the fancy enamel dial has damage on the seconds bit (I waited months for a good one to appear but no dice) but it’s still a nice addition to the collection.

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Columbus Watch Co North Star. 15 jewels, size 18s. A bit of a rarity from circa 1892/93. Housed in a ‘Silverode’ case, this chunky old timepiece keeps pretty good time considering both its age and somewhat basic movement. As can be seen in the movement picture, this is not the only movement to have lived in this case.

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Elgin 571 model 20 ‘B. W. Raymond’ from 1954. Size 16s 21 jewel R/R grade watch with 9 adjustments (for heat & position). Note how by 1954 the movement decoration was becoming more mundane due to high costs.

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Regards,

Jay.
 

mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,448
7,428
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
Part 4.

Rockford Watch Co grade 838. This size 18s 17 jewel watch from 1910 is also a bit of a rare find these days. Not R/R grade but still a good quality watch with stunning two tone damascening on the nickel movement. Catch it in the right light and it really comes alive! Fitted into a rolled gold full hunter case, a watch for the young gentleman I would think.

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Hampden Watch Co grade 69. This size 18s, 17 jewel watch dates from ~1894. This early railroad grade watch is housed in a Dueber ‘Silverine’ nickel case and includes a pretty rare watch paper. Decoration is limited to some fancy engraving on the balance bridge.

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Elgin grade 244 is size 16s and sports 17 jewels. Dating from 1904 and housed in a slightly later chrome case, this three finger bridge watch is in mint condition. Not R/R grade but when I had adjusted it I timed it as +16 seconds over 6 days….pretty damned good for a watch well over 100 years old.

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That's it for now....I need a coffee!

Hope you enjoyed them, I'll maybe post more later.

So come on guys, I know some of you have pocket watches so please share them....they are things of beauty.

Regards,

Jay.
 

didimauw

Moderator
Staff member
Jul 28, 2013
9,987
31,986
34
Burlington WI
This is fantastic!

Ever since I joined the railroad and became a freight conductor, I've been fascinated about watches, and time in general.

I no longer do that anymore, but watches are still a fascination of mine. I still keep my digital watch in 24 hour mode.

These days, watches aren't as important as they were back then, with the light system, and the RTC. But you aren't allowed to look at your phones while on the engine, so watches are still mandatory.

My main thing with 24 hour mode, was if I took a train to Chicago, and stayed in the hotel, I would know whether it was 5 pm or 5 am in the winter. With a 12 hour train ride there, up to 20 hours in the hotel, going to work whenever the phone rings, it's nice having a sense of what day, and time it is lol.
 

5star

Part of the Furniture Now
Nov 17, 2017
727
2,020
PacNW USA
Thank you for posting this ! Its a great pleasure to learn about a subject that someone is passionate about.
I have a Casio G-Shock digital watch (with hands & alphanumeric readout screens) that is solar powered and synchronizes itself automatically to the atomic clock broadcast from Colorado USA every day. I think I paid about $100-125 for it. When it comes to accuracy, convenience of use (never have to set or wind it or replace batteries), ruggedness, & cost effectiveness its tough to beat. It does what is required. But it doesn’t give you that warm feeling that you likely get from your watches. And it doesn’t make you wonder who the previous owners were - if they spent years on the rail road tracks. In short, there’s utility in my watch, but history & a sense of adventure in yours. Thanks again for sharing !
 

mawnansmiff

Lifer
Oct 14, 2015
7,448
7,428
Sunny Cornwall, UK.
To put a little perspective on things, the watch above that was made in 1897 is interesting inasmuch as I read a while ago (in a Bill Bryson book) that in the year 1897 there were fewer than 30 internal combustion engined vehicles in the entire USA.

The advances in technology since that year are astonishing.....and still those watches (and older ones) sit there ticking the time away just as they did well over 100 years ago. Why? Because they were built by craftsmen & craftswomen who took great pride in their work.

Regards,

Jay.
 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,210
60,464
Those are beautiful examples of the pocket watch for sure. Sadly, using a pocket watch requires a different manner of dress and different habits of life than today's. Many railroad men work uniforms with watch pockets, as did business men, professionals, and even landowners, by way of suits with vests with watch pockets.

I inherited my grandfather's pocket watch given to him by his mother on his 21st birthday, by which time he was in the habit of wearing a suit for his working day and around the house, as was common at the time. My father carried it for many years when he inherited it, still in a suit and tie, as least for the working day.

Watches in general have taken another step back, with the use of clocks on digital devices instead of any kind of watch. I'm still bonded to my analog pocket watch, with its steady dependable quartz works. I even wear it to bed, to have a sense of time in the wee hours when necessary.

Wanting to be a good steward of my heirloom watch, I keep it in a safe deposit box. It hasn't been wound in years. It has a few slight dings, but it is a beautiful legacy from its time and place.
 

timelord

Part of the Furniture Now
Oct 30, 2017
956
1,972
Gallifrey
Beautiful collection Jay.

At the risk of derailing this thread (sorry for the pun)...

Dueber-Hampton has an interesting history and were oddly instrumental in the creation of the Soviet watch industry. Dueber-Hampton failed during the Great Depression; at the same time, Lenin was looking to modernise Russia following the revolution and one thing he identified a need for was a supply of reliable watches.

European governments at the time were not particularly co-operative but in those pre-Cold War times US/USSR relations were cordial. The Soviets bought the machinery, IP rights and all unfinished stock and had them shipped to Moscow in 1930 along with key staff who were given 1 year contracts to train Russian workers.

This became the First Moscow Watch Factory which continued using the Hampton pocket watch movements until into the 1960s (possibly 1970?) when they were finally replaced with locally designed smaller watch movements (these are still made under the 'Vostok' name). They used these movements for dive watches (191-ChS) for the Soviet Navy and wrist watches.

Interesting aside; very few - if any - of the Russian workers could speak English; but fortunately they and the Dueber-Hampton staff could all speak German!

Given the movements are for pocket watches these early Soviet watches are huge...

The 191-ChS dive watch has a 60mm diameter (2 1/4 inches...).

Zlatoust still make ChS watches but using Vostok movements and now in a range of sizes. I bought these two back in 2020 (although thanks to Covid I couldn't have them shipped to Brazil so they are enjoying my brothers hospitality in Suffolk).

My ChS is a slightly smaller 46mm version (so about the size of a large G-Shock). Most of these ChS watches have the winding crown at the 9 o'clock position so as to not impede the wrist; as a left hander who wears my watches on the right hand minehas a 3 o'clock crown.
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This is modern re-creation of the Type 1; the originals had the Duebur-Hampden pocket watch movement, mine has a modern(ish) Vostok movement designed in the early 1960s

This fella is 'only' 50mm diameter...
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romaso

Lifer
Dec 29, 2010
1,742
6,622
Pacific NW
I think I have posted this before but here is an 'Anti-Magnetic' trench watch from WW1

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I believe you have the 'missing link' between pocket and wrist watches. I've read wrist watches became popular during WW1 due to the advent of precisely timed artillery barrages. You wanted to get 'out and over' as soon as possible after your side's barrage ended, before the enemy could get set.
 

condorlover1

Lifer
Dec 22, 2013
8,105
27,703
New York
@romaso: It was 'Anti-Magnetic' so it didn't set off anything and was worn by my Uncle Charles who was a Vickers gunner in WW1 from 1914-18. He was one of the poor sods in the forward trench who rushed forward after they detonated a mine under the German's and then set up the Vickers machine gun to wipe out any Jerry survivors. Here is what replaced it in 1917 which was in essence a pocket watch with two lugs soldered on to it, one on each side to enable a webbing strap to be threaded through which I guess became the basis for the modern day watch. I wear this thing every day and it still keeps perfect time even if it is a little bulky.

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sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
19,820
45,495
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
Jay,

Glorious, just glorious!

We had some very fine antique pocket watches in the jewelry store where I worked after class, all of them fully restored, regulated, and in perfect working order. I used to give them the occasional wind up as part of my duties around the shop and dreamed of owning one. Given that they were more than a week's wages at wholesale, and I needed those wages for basic necessities, it was not to be.

We had our own watchmaker, a wonderful Swiss chap, who did the restorations and could fabricate any part needed. Almost a lost art these days.
 

OzPiper

Lifer
Nov 30, 2020
5,892
31,451
71
Sydney, Australia
Jay,

Thanks for sharing that stunning collection.
A few of the more beautiful pieces (in my opinion) stand out because of their simplicity and understated elegance.

This is in stark contrast to the over-priced trashy pieces beloved of rap stars and drug lords that retail for six figures and more that festooned with with all manner of superfluous bling.