The curse of the frozen Kaywoodie stingers

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fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
I've been having great luck lately at the antique stores and flea markets with finding some sweet Kaywoodies. The two latest aquisitions are a problem though. Frozen stems. So here is a pic of my headach from yesterday. It's a Drinkless Suntan 7088B. At least that's what the briar says...
1127160721_zps75htgevq.jpg.html

When I got this one in the car and tried to unscrew the stem, I realized that the stem and the metal portion of the mortise was moving. Thankfully, it was screwed into the shank and nothing cracked. The stem is definetly seized on to the mortise. I have to work on getting that out. Take a look at the stinger... there is no stinger! It doesn't look to be cut off either. Anyone ever see anything like this before? I can pass a cleaner through the entire stem with no restriction. Each Kaywoodie I pick up has a completely different stinger. Every single one is a learning experience.

 

mayfair70

Lifer
Sep 14, 2015
1,968
3
Is it this one? Does look like the stinger tip was sawn off before it locked. Probably corrosion. Try a penetrating oil that isn't deadly, keeping it away from the wood. If that doesn't work, put it in the freezer. There are 50 ways to deal with these. Those are the two I know. And cover your pliers with leather or something so you don't scratch the mortise piece or stem, looks like you already know that. :)
1127160721_zps75htgevq.jpg


 

ashdigger

Lifer
Jul 30, 2016
11,391
70,250
61
Vegas Baby!!!
Just patiently use a little alcohol. Patiently. It'll unfreeze, because it's probably just the tar residue that the human before you neglected to clean out.
Folks need to understand that older estate pipes were "disposable", so after the "last smoke" it was tossed in a drawer and forgotten about.

 

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
I'm a little handicapped with posting pics. Sorry and thanks for getting it to show. You folks are the best. I tried alcohol to no avail. I'll try putting it in the freezer and then going at it with some leather wrapped needle nose pliers. If that fails, I'll baby it some more with alcohol and see what happens. I'll post what works. I mentioned the 600 that's frozen up too. I've been feeding that thing with vegetable oil for a few days now. That puppy still didn't budge. Thanks again folks. I wish I had a prettier pipe to show you. I'll try to put up my Stanwell pick ax I recently finished up. Came out pretty well.

 

ejames

Lifer
Oct 6, 2009
3,916
23
Did you get the 600 apart? I have come across several pipes with aluminum threaded connectors that have more or less welded the two parts together,not from tar build but from oxidation of the aluminum parts. Soaking with alcohol or some type of oil generally will not work. The easiest way I've found to get them apart is to heat the stem in the area of the stem face--gotta get it pretty warm--heat gun is best if you have one-- and remove the stem from the tenon by unscrewing it or pulling it off depending on how it's made. Grabow Ajustomatics you pull off since it is a friction fit. With others the part of the tenon in the stem is threaded but generally require heating before they will screw off.
Once you have the stem removed you can get at the aluminum parts. I have found that repeated heating ( I use a Bic lighter) and cooling-dip it in water-- along with a bit of penetrating oil will break it loose although it will not always come out easily once broken loose . If you can turn it slightly with padded pliers it will come out with patience. Rock it back and forth--tighten-then loosen-back and forth trying to move it farther each time you turn it counterclockwise. Don't force it. Once you get the tenon out of the mortise you can clean both pieces. You may find that the oxidation has severely damaged the threads, maybe requiring a new tenon.

 

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
The 600 is officially dead. I killed it. I had my heart set on twisting it apart properly so I tried everything. Heat, cold, alcohol, oil and microwave. The aluminum was either deteriorated badly from the start or all the different avenues I took to hopefully loosen it just destroyed the metal. The last thing I did was carefully feed it oil from the outside for two days. I tried to twist it off today and broke the stinger to the point of no return. The aluminum had become porous, kind of like those green foam blocks for fake flower arrangements. The metal soaked the oil up like a sponge and shattered with the slightest pressure. Live and learn. Another old Woodie bites the dust. I'm going to hang it in my work space to remind me to be more careful.

 

aldecaker

Lifer
Feb 13, 2015
4,407
45
Once aluminum is corroded to that point, there is nothing but corrosion and force of habit holding it together. When it separates, it disintegrates. Some of my Grabow push tenons have some pitting from corrosion caused by moisture, and it scares me for the long-term outlook. Sorry about the loss.

 

mso489

Lifer
Feb 21, 2013
41,211
60,638
I'm probably out in left field, but if this is a Drinkless, with the stinger that also has the threads that hold the stem in the shank, it appears it was sawed off and then (maybe) glued or otherwise stuck in place, not by oxidation, but intentionally to hold the pipe together. Maybe there's much I'm missing, but it looks like an odd patch job to get rid of the stinger. With Drinkless pipes, the threaded stinger is fundamental to the integrity of the pipe, not like regular stingers where you pull them out and go on smoking. I have one Drinkless, and the stinger doesn't mute the flavor nor present much of a problem, except to need cleaning after each smoke. It's a good little pipe, an old American factory gem.

 
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