alexashe, give this a try: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXZYxWwReOc
Also, I do something that a member here told me is called "the French method", which is to intentionally smell the smoke after I exhale it from my mouth.
In short, tobacco tastes like burnt leaves because that is what it is. The key to enjoying it is all in the smell IMO.
As for the burnt ashtray smell of the pipe. I clean my pipes after every smoke, and I use a little bit of rubbing alcohol. Then I let them dry out for at least a day. (You don't want to taste the rubbing alcohol either.) It will still smell burnt, but I find myself liking the burnt smell of a (cleaned) used pipe.