Superglued a Tenon, but There's an Air Hole ... How to Fill?

[sugardaddy]

The Short of it:

On an ebay pipe, I had a hard to pull out tenon that ended up snapping.
I superglued it, but there seems to be an air leak that is impeding proper lighting.
How can I fix?

Details:

I have a pipe tenon that snapped as I was trying to remove the stem for cleaning.
I had just gotten the pipe in from ebay.
It's a billiard type with a really thin stem.

The fit was so tight, but I was being careful, at least trying to be. I was able to rotate it a little and move it about 0.5mm out.
That was so difficult that I reconsidered trying to get it out. I just wanted to rotate it back to centered (or 12 o'clock, whatever the term is), and realize that I would just clean the pipe with the stem in place always.
But in trying to center it, it snapped... in the usual place, leaving most of the tennon in the shank.
It was such a tight fit, that I knew I'd never get it out.

The pipe is also not very expensive, so sending it off for repair would cost more than the pipe.
So I decided to superglue it.

I am pretty happy with how it looks, but when smoking it, I discovered that enough air is getting in around the glued joint, that it is causing problems lighting the pipe. Even a strong draw is not really pulling on the flame hard enough to get the heat down to the tobacco.
If I wrap my fingers around the joint, then it lights fine.
However, the hole (or what must be a crack) is not enough to cause too much of a problem when smoking. it almost resembles a Carey Magic Inch, as it lets some air in when you draw.

So I guess as I was gluing it up, I did not glue a whole circle, or maybe as I was positioning it when drying, I tilted it too much, and the leak/crack was created.

What can I do?

I have some beeswax that I thought might not be unsightly if I crammed it into the crack. The shank might be long enough not to have that area get hot enough to melt the wax.

I guess I could try to press some superglue into the crack, being ready to wipe any off that ended up on the outside of the shank or bit.

 

[kcghost]

You don't want to hear this but sending it out to be professionally fixed is your best option. You've already done enough to the pipe.

 

[cosmicfolklore]

The tenon has a lot of structural stress on it. And, while superglue was good for sticking construction workers to steel beams up in the air, it really can't hold a tenon onto the stem. It may work for a smoke, maybe two... it's not permanent.

 

[RustiePyles CPG]

There really isn't much you can do at this point shy of drilling the bit for a new tenon or replacing the bit altogether.

 

[mingc]

Duct tape.

 

[canucklehead]

You need a really small pipe repair clamp.

 

[UB 40]

Nice pipe anyways!

 

[mingc]

You need a really small pipe repair clamp.

View attachment 209661

Classy.

 

[UB 40]

“I guess I could try to press some superglue into the crack, being ready to wipe any off that ended up on the outside of the shank or bit.”

Just try, don’t wipe the superglue of. Let it dry don’t wipe of, because then you will take of again some of the glue. superglue needs some hours (up to 24 hours) depending on the air humidity to harden completely. Then try to sand or file whatever is to much.

Otherwise try to get a preformed stem, with a tenon that either luckily fits.

Or sand the tenon down -without a lathe it’s a mission- - in a construction of two hardwood sticks connected on one end with a hinge or a strap, like a nutcracker. Drill a few holes begin with a wider diameter then step down to the diameter of the tenon. Drill the holes right in the middle of the closed sticks. Use a drill press to keep a rectangle. The holes 🕳 should appear like half moons on each stick.

Put two stripes of sanding paper in each half. Place them thoroughly to the edge. Now you should be able to turn around the preformed tenon between the hardwood sticks to take of the material to fit perfectly. Use grits of 400, 800 and finer when it gets to finish.

Then sand and file the stem while stuck into the stummel. Protect the wood with a wrap of duct tape. Fasten the pipe on a round stick stuck into the bowl.?Work down on the round stem with thin sheets of sanding paper in a shoe shine manner. Work your way up to 800 grits and even finer. Buff!!! This takes some time.

Congratulations, you’ve made a first step to a pipe maker.

 

[sugardaddy]

“I guess I could try to press some superglue into the crack, being ready to wipe any off that ended up on the outside of the shank or bit.”

Just try, don’t wipe the superglue of. Let it dry don’t wipe of, because then you will take of again some of the glue. superglue needs some hours (up to 24 hours) depending on the air humidity to harden completely. Then try to sand or file whatever is to much.

Otherwise try to get a preformed stem, with a tenon that either luckily fits.

Or sand the tenon down -without a lathe it’s a mission- - in a construction of two hardwood sticks connected on one end with a hinge or a strap, like a nutcracker. Drill a few holes begin with a wider diameter then step down to the diameter of the tenon. Drill the holes right in the middle of the closed sticks. Use a drill press to keep a rectangle. The holes 🕳 should appear like half moons on each stick.

Put two stripes of sanding paper in each half. Place them thoroughly to the edge. Now you should be able to turn around the preformed tenon between the hardwood sticks to take of the material to fit perfectly. Use grits of 400, 800 and finer when it gets to finish.

Then sand and file the stem while stuck into the stummel. Protect the wood with a wrap of duct tape. Fasten the pipe on a round stick stuck into the bowl.?Work down on the round stem with thin sheets of sanding paper in a shoe shine manner. Work your way up to 800 grits and even finer. Buff!!! This takes some time.

Congratulations, you’ve made a first step to a pipe maker.

thanks so much for a great answer on so many levels.

 

[sugardaddy]

There really isn't much you can do at this point shy of drilling the bit for a new tenon or replacing the bit altogether.

Ahhh .... just replacing the tenon... Sure. I might look at that as a possibility if the pipe breaks again.

 

[sugardaddy]

You need a really small pipe repair clamp.

View attachment 209661

This must be the correct answer, because Google is always right.

 

[sugardaddy]

The tenon has a lot of structural stress on it. And, while superglue was good for sticking construction workers to steel beams up in the air, it really can't hold a tenon onto the stem. It may work for a smoke, maybe two... it's not permanent.
View attachment 209642

Thanks for the info.
When it breaks again, I'll take a different approach.

 

[UB 40]

I

thanks so much for a great answer on so many levels.

I hope I pointed out the process in a way it could be understood. I might missed the right terms. Ask if something isn’t clear.

I can understand that you want to get a smokable pipe and not invest more bucks, than necessary. But maybe it’s easier to get a new stem made by a pro.

Otherwise to figure out what can be done to a worn out pipe was my way to get into pipe making from scratch as a hobby. Sometimes It’s much more relaxing than smoking pipes itself.

Another idea, did you take a draw on the stummel without a stem.? Maybe the airflow is clogged.

 

[sugardaddy]

You don't want to hear this but sending it out to be professionally fixed is your best option. You've already done enough to the pipe.

I understand how that might be the best option for fixing the pipe.

But from the prices I've heard of for creating a new stem, I could just buy another vintage pipe on ebay.

So I would probably just go that route.

 

[Zero]

You need a really small pipe repair clamp.

View attachment 209661

You're on to something, these pipe repair clamps really do work. This one has lasted me for years, wayyy better than super glue.

 

[woodrow]

sounds like you like the pipe and it’s a Comoy.
probably a good candidate for a piece of aluminum tubing. The tubing can be placed from the end of the shank to the stummel.
Aluminum pipe comes in a variety of ODs. If it happens again this is a very good fix no matter what happens to the shank.

 

[Occidental]

If you have an air leak, I am for your idea of running a bead of superglue around the affected (Drat the differences between affected and effected!) area and quickly wiping the excess before it dries completely.

A Q-Tip soaked with superglue may lend itself to a more precise application.

Repeat until the stem is sealed to your liking.

You might even consider supergluing a collar of thin, stained to match the stem, leather around the affected area.

The broadness of a leather band should seal the area from leaks.

Since you already own the pipe and probably use it copiously, one often desires function over form.

Or one could pony up and spend the big bucks for a repair.

But then, the adventure of hunting another on eBay would probably be more cost effective.

 

[sablebrush52]

Ahhh .... just replacing the tenon... Sure. I might look at that as a possibility if the pipe breaks again.

If you have no intention of ever removing the stem, the fix might hold. Supergluing a tenon back onto a stem is a temporary fix at best, and if you're dealing with a tight tenon, rotating it in and out, that join will fail. Replacing the stem would be the way to go. Since the pipe is from Comoy, a high grade maker, you might find that having it repaired professionally will ultimately pay for itself.

Did you try putting the pipe in the freezer for a few hours before trying to force the tenon in the first place? This is a method for loosening tight tenons that works quite well. Often the problem is an accretion of crud in the pipe that's holding the tenon, Freezing it causes the gunk to lose its grip, making it possible to remove the tenon safely. After that it's a matter of cleaning out the mortise and the surfaces of the tenon and that generally solves the problem.

Just replacing the tenon, rather than the stem, can be more expensive, as it involves more work to accurately center a new tenon. Also, there are precious few repairmen around with the skill to do it properly. Lot's of claims, few results. The only time I've done a tenon replacement is when the stem was a unique shape from a highly collectible make, that was worth the expense.

 

[warren99]

It will likely fail after a few smokes. A new tenon from a reputable repair person shouldn't cost more than $25. Mark Tinsky does a good job replacing tenons.