Stem Removal - Yes or No?
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I tend to be the pipe contrarian here. Given I smoke 4 bowls or better per sitting, I often remove the stem prior to pipe cooling due to moisture accumulation in order to run a pipe cleaner into the bowl. In 40 years of pipe smoking have never had a problem.
I often separate the parts for a quick swab or poke with a cleaner. I reassemble before the temperatures differ too much. In this manner I tend not to worry about cracking a shank or breaking the stem. It's not happened to me yet in fifty plus years of pipe smoking. I hold the parts near the joint and twist gently while pulling steadily, straight out and reverse the process when assembling. Straight in and out (salacious comments are eagerly solicited) I believe is the key as there is no "G" spot to titillate.
If the stem is tight even with the pipe is cool, try putting some paraffin wax on the tenon. If it's still too tight, very, very, very lightly sand it.
I literally wax the tenons on all my pipes, except silver spigots and system pipes, as the tenons are conical shaped on them.
I literally wax the tenons on all my pipes, except silver spigots and system pipes, as the tenons are conical shaped on them.
I remove the stem after EVERY TIME I smoke. I wait till it's cold, of course. But there's no way you can properly clean filtered pipes without removing the stem, or change the filter for that matter.
I make sure my pipestems fit snug, but not fiercely tight, and I've been removing the stems for cleaning after every smoke when still warm for over 40 ears with no ill effects. I believe ya just can't get it clean enough otherwise, because the moisture and tars start to solidify when it cools. I rarely have to do a deep cleaning a a result. That's heretical, I know, but it works for me.
I let my pipes cool and then clean them. I always take the pipe apart as I clean the stem thoroughly after every bowl. I also clean the shank, mortise and bowl after every smoke. For my tastes there is nothing worse than an ashy or dirty tasting pipe.
I recently ran into a problem where 3 of my pipes are all of a sudden too tight to put back together. I have had the pipes for years, they are all Brian Ruthenberg pipes and out of the 9 or 10 that I own, only these three are doing it. I have tried putting the stem in the freezer and that hasn't worked. I was getting ready to get some sandpaper, what grit would you pipe restorers recommend?
I recently ran into a problem where 3 of my pipes are all of a sudden too tight to put back together. I have had the pipes for years, they are all Brian Ruthenberg pipes and out of the 9 or 10 that I own, only these three are doing it. I have tried putting the stem in the freezer and that hasn't worked. I was getting ready to get some sandpaper, what grit would you pipe restorers recommend?
I take mine apart after every smoke as the hot tars and oils are easier to clean than when cold. Thirty years of this and no loose stems or cracked shanks.
I've heard arguments for and against removing the stem. Some guys have said oh it's not a huge deal, if you're pipe is gurgling bad or there's a blockage in the draft hole and you can't get a cleaner through it's not a big deal to remove the stem clear the airway or sop up the moisture with a cleaner and go back to smoking the pipe. I've also heard some guys give examples where it's cracked the shank or has screwed up the fit of the tenon to the mortise doing so.
I haven't made a habit out of removing stems during a smoke. There is a Peterson Dracula full bent apple that I have that can gurgle fairly bad, especially with aromatics. I've removed the stem during a bowl and sopped up the moisture with a pipe cleaner and it's been fine. Typically I only do this with that pipe though. It's not a regular occurrence with all my pipes.
I haven't made a habit out of removing stems during a smoke. There is a Peterson Dracula full bent apple that I have that can gurgle fairly bad, especially with aromatics. I've removed the stem during a bowl and sopped up the moisture with a pipe cleaner and it's been fine. Typically I only do this with that pipe though. It's not a regular occurrence with all my pipes.
I tend to never remove my stems (some Peterson P-lip pipes are the exception).
I believe George cautioned against an application of graphite material. A couple of marks from a pencil will not do any harm, nor crack the shank. And that often is just the cure for very tight stem.
I believe George cautioned against an application of graphite material. A couple of marks from a pencil will not do any harm, nor crack the shank. And that often is just the cure for very tight stem.
I had one (thankfully) inexpensive pipe that snapped off beneath the ferule. The stem was the same narrowed diameter beneath the ferule as the tenon, and the ferule was perhaps just over 1/2 inch long. It was if the tenon was approx 1-1/4" long!
All I can ascribe the breakage to (the pipe hadn't been smoked for a few days, and was cool enough) is that this pipe was of a Faulty Design.
All I can ascribe the breakage to (the pipe hadn't been smoked for a few days, and was cool enough) is that this pipe was of a Faulty Design.
chasing, yes I have tried putting the stummel in the freezer but it didn't work. It is so weird how these three have tightened so badly.
slowroll, thanks for the info, I will try that.
slowroll, thanks for the info, I will try that.
Wow, that is something! Hope you can get it straightened out. Tenon adjustment can be a pain but work slowly and it will be fine.
You might also be experiencing a temporary change in the fit due to increased humidity. I had this happen with several pipes, and the fit returned to normal when the humidity decreased. Different pieces of briar respond differently to changes in environment.
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