"Mark Ryan owns D&R, and also was the guy who single-handedly saved the perique industry"
Actually it was Mike Little of the Santa Fe Natural Tobacco Company that stepped in five years before Mark Ryan. And that was due to the efforts of Christopher Brown and Matt Nichols. It was cigs that saved Perique, not pipes. Ryan stepped in 7 years later and expanded what the men started years earlier.
"GRAND POINT, La. — About 15 years ago, the world supply of the pungent Cajun tobacco perique was down to about five barrels. One of the rarest tobaccos in the world, it comes from St. James Parish, about 50 miles west of New Orleans.
The market had been declining since a peak in the 1920s, and Percy Martin was the only full-scale farmer left. A few bad seasons had knocked his production down to the point where perique was on the verge of extinction.
Mr. Martin died last year, but not before he saw the tobacco he had spent his life with make a nearly miraculous recovery to what might be its biggest business success. His son Ray took over the farm, and this spring Ray Martin has 236 barrels sitting on his barn floor — the most he could remember seeing, ever.
“I started getting more people, must be five years ago,” Mr. Martin said. “We just kept it going. We were the last ones planting.”
Perique (pronounced peh-REEK) gets its distinctive flavor from barrel fermentation, a technique Louisiana settlers are thought to have picked up in the 18th or 19th century from the local Choctaws who aged tobacco in stumps. The current system has changed little since then.
After harvesting the plants, the farmers nail them to the rafters of a barn with a small piece of wood called a cop-cop, for the noise it makes. When the plants have dried, leaves are removed by hand and placed in oak barrels under giant jackscrews. Every few months, workers take all the leaves out, put the bottom ones on top and press them back under the screws. The entire curing process takes more than a year.
The result is a powerful experience. Fans describe perique as spicy, earthy and rich. It is a “condiment” tobacco, more akin to an intense habanero hot sauce than ketchup. It rarely makes up more than 15 percent of any given blend, and that is enough to make its presence known. Most people in St. James have a story about someone who tried to smoke or chew perique straight. It never ends well.
The backbreaking labor associated with that preindustrial process, combined with a succession of storms and low prices, had led to a long period of attrition. When two tobacco enthusiasts, Christopher Brown and Matt Nichols, decided around 1998 to go see where one of their favorite products grew, they were shocked to find just a few acres of farmland left.
Mr. Brown and Mr. Nichols resolved to do something to preserve perique. They helped Ray Martin send samples of his tobacco to major companies, and one of them ended up on the desk of Mike Little, now the president of Santa Fe Natural Tobacco Company, which makes American Spirit cigarettes.
In 2005, a North Carolina businessman named Mark Ryan bought an old processing facility in nearby Convent, La., with a lineage going back to Pierre Chenet, thought to be the first Westerner to produce perique. Recently, he added to it. Mr. Ryan has more demand than he can fill with his local farmers, and augments his barrels with tobacco from places like Kentucky, Virginia and Canada, as his predecessor had done for years as more and more farmers left the business.
Unlike Champagne or Cuban cigars, perique lacks a legal protection defining where it must be grown or processed. But for the purist, the only true perique is grown and processed in St. James.
Mr. Martin’s barn is a jumble of a century of cobbled technology. There are new presses made out of metal, old presses made of logs with the bark still on, and cop-cops with nail holes worn through them lying on the floor. Increased production has brought increased scrutiny and regulations, both from the government and American Spirit, but by and large the process looks the same as it did in the early 20th century.
“It’s about as high-tech as it can get,” Mr. Martin said."
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/05/us/tobacco-lovers-discover-mystique-of-perique.html?_r=0