So, you want to start restoring pipes?

[kf4bsb]

That will definitely take care of having a variable speed buffer. I used a very similar setup on an old Shop Smith 10ER that I restored. I wanted a infinitely adjustable variable speed option that wasn't a mechanical pulley setup (yeah this thing is old)so I used the same type of solution with a different motor. I had a slight advantage as my dad was an electrician so all I had to do was tell him what I needed and it magically appeared.

 

[mcitinner1]

Thank you guys, I will be looking into this (probably do it) soon. Today I'm hating having fun, prepping to paint so new carpet can go in. :evil:

 

[danielplainview]

If you put in the work with sandpaper or mesh, you really don't need a buffer. I use a buffing wheel all of about 30 seconds in the whole resto process. About 30 seconds on the wheel for the stem, and a quick touch for the briar for a finishing touch.
If you try to do the majority of the work on a wheel, lots of things can go wrong quickly. Burning the stem, warping, uneven surfaces, not to mention launching your pipe across the room at Mach speed.
If your just starting out trying to refurb a pipe, I would leave the buffer out all together.

 

[gambit88]

That's a good point Daniel. Clean my stems with 500,1200,1500, and 2000 grit wet sand paper. The buffer is more for wax and polish. If the bowl isn't too bad I have a mixture of food grade mineral oil and wax that I had polish with. It's great on stems in between smokes to keep the oxidation down.

 

[mcitinner1]

Daniel you are absolutely correct. I've restored about 25 to 30 pipes the same way. Many of them were old Grabow estates that I took down to bare briar with a sanding pad for drywall first. Then I worked through a step at a time up to 12,000 grit micro mesh pads. I've been picking up a stash of estate pipes needing TLC for a while, is one reason for the buffer. I also want to add shaping/sanding wheels for new pipes too. I started out trying to use my old bench grinder, but it runs too fast and is out of balance. (vibrates too much)

 

[stanlaurel]

Thanks Wes for your post and the thread that it spawned. It has already gotten somewhat technical but maybe someday I'll catch-up.
I will follow your advice -- "first you need to get a pipe".
I will look around and find a few subjects to practice on and then give it a try.

 

[ssjones]

I learned to polish metal before entering the pipe hobby (car/motorcycle aluminum & stainless parts). Most of the same skill sets and supplies translate. I've been restoring pipes for a little over four years. Early on, I learned to read everything Steve Laug posted on the old SmokersForums.uk "Restoration & Maintenance" section. When he stared the Reborn Pipes blog, I was honored to be invited to post my guest entries. On this forum, member "ejames" is also an excellent resource (and pipe maker!)
I have a thread here somewhere on why not to waste money on the router speed adjuster (Harbor Freight).

 

[phil67]

I have a thread here somewhere on why not to waste money on the router speed adjuster (Harbor Freight).

Yes, a lot of people have mistakenly purchased that router speed control thinking that it can be used with any motor which isn't the case. It will not work on induction type motors.

 

[mso489]

kf4, great post. You're really grounded and your advice is excellent. Even members who don't restore pipes per se find themselves restoring their own pipes over the years, so information put out to active hobbiests or people who actually turn some cash applies to some degree to those of us who happen to have pipes that are thirty or forty years old, in some cases bought by us new. Especially I appreciate the suggestion not to start out investing in equipment. That will come naturally when needed. But a good pipe restoration can be done by hand, if not to perfection.

 

[phil67]

I was perusing about on AutomationDirect and they have several motors that are 1800 RPM at some very reasonable prices. They have a 5/8” arbor so you’re all set to go by simply getting a Beall arbor adapter and a buffing wheel (better off purchasing the whole kit). 1800 RPM is an overall ideal speed for not only buffing, but also for the use of a sanding disk if you wish to make pipes. With that motor you would have no need to purchase a VFD if you’re not all that serious about making pipes but simply wish to purchase a high quality motor for buffing and waxing.
All that you would have to do is purchase a length of a 14 gauge cord, cut off the female end (after you determine the length that you wish to have). Then, simply strip off some covering, insert the proper cable clamp in the motor, wire it up, mount the motor, plug it in and you’re all set to go. Believe me, these motors are very good and the same source for motors that Nate King (and many other pipe makers) uses in his shop. Just a suggestion for those interested. :wink:

Setup in Nate King's shop

 

[ssjones]

Those are great prices for new motors. Another option is to check your local electric motor repair shop (every town has at least one). A 1725 RPM 1/2 to 3/4 motor is pretty commonly used in furnace motors and they will have a number of rebuilt units. For pipe restoration work, a rebuilt motor will outlast most restorers.

 

[rjeffie]

Great thread...thanks y'all

 

[jonesee75]

Some great information, having been restoring for a couple years now. Some I keep, some I passed on to friends. You can have all the greatest and best tools, but if you do not have patience you may end up ruining a good pipe.

 

[joshb83]

Getting ready to start my first restore. It's a metal based pipe, a little known brand called Stirling. Plan on doing most by hand with a little help from the dremel when absolutely neccesary. Any tricks in cleaning the inside of a metal stem?

 

[ejames]

I made the mistake of having too many pipes to do. I had 15 on my bench at one point. It started to feel like work so I had to step away for a few days. I know not to make that mistake again

That is an easy mistake to make-- I know ! I have probably 100 pipes in my shop,all bought to add to my collection. My problem was that I got distracted. First by making tampers and then by making pipes and also doing refurbs for other folks. All the while I kept buying pipes-- which sit neglected in wire racks and various containers. I do enjoy bringing an old pipe back to life,but, I enjoy making the pipes and tampers more.Every now and then I do manage to get one shined up.

 

[kf4bsb]

Josh, keep us posted on how it goes

 

[settersbrace]

I have been interested in getting into doing some resto work for some time now and after seeing Wes's post and following along, I've really started to build some momentum and I think its time to really start reading and watching some videos. Are there some specific You Tube videos I should search or that some that are recommended over others? I really feel that learning by doing the work with elbow grease and a Spartans tool kit is the way to start because I know its easy to dive into something like this with both feet and buy too many and often the wrong tools. I have some ability with wood as I used to build archery equipment and have been a tradesman all my adult life. I'll stay glued to this thread and can't wait to get started!

 

[settersbrace]

Another question for those that have done a few restorations, what's the preferred method used to perform the initial cleaning? Alcohol retort or salt and alcohol treatment?

 

[torque]

Honestly, these days I mainly use the salt/cotton balls and alcohol to suck up any remaining cake dust I missed when wiping out the bowl after the ream. Then I go to work on the shank, which is the real chore, the bowl isn't that hard. You set fire to the bowl every time you smoke your pipe so there really isn't much to clean out but the cake. The shank on the other hand really collects the goo. I hit it with shank brushes and bristle pipe cleaners until nothing (or close to nothing) is coming out then I finish up with several retorts. You would be surprised what will come out with a retort even after the pipe cleaners don't show any residue. After that I hook it up to my ozone generator for a few hours as a finishing touch.

 

[ssjones]

I had a stem button crack one time doing the retort, so I only use that as a last resort. 99% of the time the alcohol/salt works fine for my use.