Shank expansion question

[tmgaus51]

I'm working on expanding the hole in the shank of a modified cob pipe. The shank is fairly long and made of bamboo. I've been slowly working with a rat tail and chainsaw file to open up the shank, but I don't think my tools are long enough to make it to where the shank meets the original cob bowl. In other words, the hole drilled into the actual bowl is a bit smaller than the hole where it meets the shank. Hopefully my shoddy artwork does the situation justice.

My question is: assuming the airflow is good, is there any reason to continue working through the pipe so that I get the hole in the cob to the same width as the hole in the shank? Is this level of consistency really necessary? Or should I just leave well enough alone?
Thanks,

Dave

 

[dottiewarden]

Restricted airflow will continue unless opened. Be careful though, you risk ruining the pipe altogether.

 

[tmgaus51]

The airflow seems to already have improved quite a bit just by expanding the shank and not getting all the way to the bowl. I'm just wondering whether most of you would take the final step and go all the way to the bowl...

 

[dottiewarden]

If the flow is good, leave well enough alone. It seems like you have already corrected the problem.

 

[jpmcwjr]

FWIW, if it's drawing the way you like it now, absolutely leave it be!

 

[tmgaus51]

Cool--I can already pass a pipe cleaner all the way through it--I just feel it getting a bit tighter as I reach the bowl. Perhaps the shank was originally drilled too narrow in the first place. Thanks for the advice.

 

[tmgaus51]

I guess this really isn't an exact science anyway. Just keep tinkering until you get it to perform the way you want?

 

[jpmcwjr]

Yes, that's it! The tinkering can go over to tobacco selection, drying time, packing, tamping and you-name-it!
Enjoy!

 

[clickklick]

There is more than likely (steel, delrin, carbon fiber, etc) something acting as a joiner between the bamboo and briar. I would be reserved in trying to continue opening it up at that point.

 

[tmgaus51]

I just called up the maker too. Seems the draught hole is intentionally smaller than the shaft anyway. And between the two there's a briar insert, which is the wall I must have been hitting. I'm not sure how pretty it looks in there, but the airflow seems to be much improved.
He recommended running a bristle pipe cleaner coated with beeswax through the shank to clean up any loose wood. Anyone ever heard of this technique?

 

[mso489]

Sounds like you've fixed the problem. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[pitchfork]

If it's working, then that's great.
But often when the stem draft hole is larger than the shank draft hole, you'll get unwanted condensation. (A reverse calabash chamber works by the same principle, though by design.) I had this problem once with a briar pipe. I opened up the stem, which was fairly restricted, but failed to open up the hole through the shank by the same amount. Opening up the shank to match the stem solved the problem.

 

[mawnansmiff]

I would certainly be wary of the bee's waxed bristle cleaner idea in case any wax got left behind. That must be foul tasting stuff. I would suggest an alcohol drenched cleaner be used to clear out any dust particles, quick to evaporate and tasteless to boot!
Regards,
Jay.

 

[mawnansmiff]

Coyote, I was responding to the original poster's comment where he said...
"He recommended running a bristle pipe cleaner coated with beeswax through the shank to clean up any loose wood. Anyone ever heard of this technique?"
...bee's wax has myriad uses in pipe smoking/refurbishing but I really wouldn't want to taste the stuff :roll:
Regards,
Jay.