Shank Cracked - How Do I Keep it From Worsening?

[rustycolt]

Gentlemen,

Good day. I have recently acquired a very nice Savinelli Autograph estate that is in very nice condition, except for one small flaw. The pipe has a small split on the shank where it meets the stem. The crack is on the inside, and I would like some input from those with experience repairing pipes, on what I can do to arrest the damage and keep it from progressing through the shank. It would seem to me that the simplest solution would be to fill the crack with some kind of epoxy or cement, but I would hate to use the wrong thing and ruin a great pipe. The damage is completely invisible when the stem is in place, so cosmetics are less important in this case than structure and integrity, though I would prefer minimal visibility if I have a choice.
My question for the community is, what material and/or process should I employ to best make this type of repair. Please note that I do not have any local professionals I could take the piece to, so that is not an option.

Thanks,

Rusty

 

[phred]

Duct tape.
:nana:
Welcome to the forums!

 

[tbradsim1]

Rusty I"d fill that bogger red up with Super glue, make sure you clean the inside of shank of residue , that's all it needs, Kashmir I believe does this useing a jewelers loupe.

 

[ssjones]

On a pipe like that, with an oval-ish stem, I like Ronnies solution at Nightowl.

 

[papipeguy]

Welcome to the forum. I agree with Al on the solution. The Autograph is a very nice pipe and IMO a band would detract from its appearance. It will be money well spent Good luck.

 

[rustycolt]

Thanks for the replies guys. Ronnie's fix does look superb. I was hoping I would be able to reinforce the split on my own, like the Old Cajun suggested. I'm not a big fan of super glue, but I am considering this wood epoxy, non-toxic, and seems like it will provide a solid permanent bond:


More info about the product at the manuf website:

http://pcepoxy.com/our-products/wood-repair/pc-woody.php
My biggest concern is performing a repair that might devalue the pipe, or cause problems should a later repair be required. Anyone have a good reason that I should avoid this approach, or has anyone fixed a similar problem using a similar material?