Sanding Staining and Smoking Properties

[olewaylon]

I've refurbished several pipes now and Im starting to reconsider my techniques on the Staining and sanding. I want some input from you folks. I've spent the last hour searching on our forums and others and have come to the conclusion that there are several opinions on the matter. some people say that stain should not be applied after 600 grit because it will not saturate the briar and will rub off in your hand. Is this true.? Other sand all the way to 1800 and then stain claiming good results. Another thought is that over sanding i to the 1200-1500 will clog the pores, thus affecting the Briars smoking properties. And another belief is that after the stain is applied the the pipe should NOT be buffed with carnauba wax, believing that the wax will evaporate into the briar and alter the smoking properties.
We have some excellent pipe makers in this forum and i was hoping that you could provide some of your beliefs on this matter.

 

[topd]

I am by no means a pipe maker but have refinished a few briers with results that I was pleased with

for my own use. I have sanded down with 600 paper and prefer no stain at all. I've used Johnson's

furniture wax, renaissance wax (used by museums to refurbish wooden antiques) and carnauba wax, then

let the pipe color itself with smoking. I didn't notice any wax or foreign taste after the first bowl.

The folks that say wax will give you a bad taste most likely think they messed up and never smoked it

more than once, but just like a new pipe, there is stuff you need to 'burn off' with the first bowl or so.

Try it, you might like it....

 

[riskybusiness]

I used to take old cigar boxes (made of cedar) and sand them down. I could get them glassy smooth with 400 grit. Then I finished the boxes with Tung Oil. (No, I didn't lick them!) Tung oil is my favorite finish.

 

[ssjones]

I've used 1500 paper on smooth bowls with no ill effects after restaining. I do "flame" my stain to set it into the grain.

 

[pruss]

When I know that I am going to be re-staining I do a surface clean of the exterior of the bowl and shank by wiping them down with a cotton ball dipped in acetone. This pulls oils/grease/smoke/tar and leaves the pipe in a good spot to begin sanding. I typically leave it to sit for a day after the acetone wipe. Acetone evaporates VERY quickly, but I'm not normally in a rush. Then I get to sanding and typically sand up to 600 grit before applying stain. Like Al, I flame the stain to set it into the grain. Then I let the pipe sit for a day. I've also had no problem sanding up into finer grit levels post-staining.
Cheers,
-- Pat

 

[olewaylon]

I appreciate your input.
Does anyone believe that over sanding will clog the briars pores? im very curious about this.

 

[ssjones]

I had the opportunity to handle some pipes made by Toni Nielson at the Richmond show last year. The finish he achieves on his super-high grade pipes is phenomenal. To get this finish, he has to use a very high grade paper to finish the bowls. His pipes are pretty highly regarded world-wide. We do have some very fine makers here, perhaps they will chime in.

 

[zack24]

A couple of things I do- Most of my contrast stains are 3 steps.

Sand to 600, let the pipe sit for a couple of days to really set it. Sand the stain down with 600, 800, and 1200 to remove most of the stain. Put the lighter stain on top. Sand to 1200 again. Buff it with white compound. Touch it up with very small amount of the light color on a rag. Put on a pair of white gloves to avoid skin oil screwing up your finish! Use an extremely thin cut of shellac to seal the stain- many makers use this as a final step- especially on sandblasts. Buff it very lightly with compound again. Buff it with Carnauba. ...And you're not going to clog the pores of the briar- unless you dip it in shellac like the factory pipes, it's not a problem. (credit to Todd Johnson on Pipemaker's Forum for most of this process.)

 

[brudnod]

As Zack has pointed out and is very important, skin oils are a mess to the finish before final sanding, staining, shellac (or varnish if that is your preference; both resins), and do not use buffing compound prior to staining although that may get you a smoother finish. It blocks the pores and inhibits the penetration of the stain into the briar - I learned this the hard way. Using white, lint free gloves (or powder-free nitrile) is best when handling the final finish prior to staining and either shellac or wax. I have found that a perfectly clean, well handled finish takes several layers of carnauba wax well and tends to bring out the grain without shellac and I prefer the slightly less shiny finish.

Spencer

 

[olewaylon]

Thank you for all of the helpful responses. Zack I've seen your pipes and have a lot of respect for your artistry. Could you please tell me a bit more about the shellac process. I've never used anything in between the stain and carnauba. Is there a brand you prefer or certain ones to avoid?

 

[zack24]

@olewaylon If you want to take the classic approach, get some platinum blonde flakes from Shellac.net , use about 4oz flakes to 1qt alcohol (that would be considered a 1lb cut...If your a mere mortal, get a can of Zinser Spray Shellac and spray a very light topcoat, then buff very lightly with diamond compound followed by carnauba. The important thing is to use dewaxed shellac.

 

[lightmyfire]

Very Interesting.

I personally sand to 600, then I stain in 3 o 4 steps (with flaming phase) and after that I light the stain with very light polishing compound & the final carnauba step. I never tried shellac but that might be interesting.

 

[olewaylon]

In a bout of excitement I bought a can of shellac. Will that work or should I return and get the spray can?

 

[zack24]

In a bout of excitement I bought a can of shellac. Will that work or should I return and get the spray can?

Look at the label- if it says "Wax free", you can use it- (some of them also have a heavy orange color that makes them unusable)-but,you will need to cut it very thin with 190 proof alcohol. I'd personally take it back and go for the spray- easy to use on rusticated or blasted- go extremely light at a good distance from the pipe. I'll only use the flakes/alcohol thinned to the extreme applied with a pipe cleaner on smooths...then buff with diamond and wax

 

[olewaylon]

Thanks Zack, I'll get the spray.