I have a Peterson Rhodesian style pipe. A while back I thought the grooves on the outside of the bowl, had gunk in them. I tried to clean them out with a paper clip, and it seemed like I was actually taking away from the briar? Does anyone have a close up picture of how deep these grooves actually go? It still looks like there is gunk in there, but I'm afraid to keep digging!
Rhodesian grooves?
- Thread starter didimauw
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I have a Peterson B5 Aran bulldog and it seems to me they put a bit of the carbon coating used inside the bowl in the groove of the rings of the bowl as well to accentuate or define the rings better.
The bead lines, as they are sometimes called, are a visual embellishment. I think they accentuate the shape of the pipe and give it a more defined look. I have both Rhodesians and bulldogs with and without bead lines. One of the best of these pipes with no bead line is the Dr. Grabow Royalton bulldog. It manages to look extra sharp without the bead line. Many without the bead line tend toward looking formless, or with rusticated or blast finishes, kind of lumpy.
Those bead lines were originally designed by French pipe makers to secure the clamping to make the bulldog shape.
A lot of the stuff that builds up in there is wax (if you wax your pipes) and oils and dirt from your hands.
A safe way to clean out the grooves so you don't damage the stain is to use dental floss.
A safe way to clean out the grooves so you don't damage the stain is to use dental floss.
Dental floss is a good suggestion. I've also used some fly-fishing leader material (or similar monofiliment).
Here's a related question. Has anyone ever measured the typical bead line dimension? I recently had to repair a broken bead line and I used a sharp, thin, knife blade to cut the groove back in the bowl near the repair. (see Digby 9438 Bead Line Repair thread). I've found that "nut files" are available that luthiers use for guitar building/repairs.
Here are the choices from Stew-Mac:
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Nuts_and_Saddles/Gauged_Nut_Slotting_Files.html
I'm assuming the smallest, at 0.010" is probably the best choice?
Here's a related question. Has anyone ever measured the typical bead line dimension? I recently had to repair a broken bead line and I used a sharp, thin, knife blade to cut the groove back in the bowl near the repair. (see Digby 9438 Bead Line Repair thread). I've found that "nut files" are available that luthiers use for guitar building/repairs.
Here are the choices from Stew-Mac:
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Nuts_and_Saddles/Gauged_Nut_Slotting_Files.html
I'm assuming the smallest, at 0.010" is probably the best choice?
I have encountered this is some estates and thought it was just a matter of them being factory pipes and the tool had not been sharp.
I just ignored it, sort of. Well hell, it bothered me really.Something like that has always buggs the hell out of me when I would run across it on a firearm, watch, pipe or whatever. I have learned, the hard way, picking at it with sharp tools can make thinks much worse.
Thanks a lot for the thread and the information on cleaning them out.
I just ignored it, sort of. Well hell, it bothered me really.Something like that has always buggs the hell out of me when I would run across it on a firearm, watch, pipe or whatever. I have learned, the hard way, picking at it with sharp tools can make thinks much worse.
Thanks a lot for the thread and the information on cleaning them out.
Bob Said:
Yes, I think you were sort of winding down about the time I came onboard. Welcome back! Though, honestly, I'm not on NEARLY as much as I used to be.
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