Restorers. Anybody tried wood filler for fills?

[woodrow]

The problem it seems for fills is the dark color produced when mixing briar and ca glue. Then the pipe is stained to match the fills. Usually a dark stain has to be selected to match the fill.

I’m wondering if anyone has used a product for fills other than briar and ca glue.

Theres lots of products that can take some dye prior to the fill to match the shade of the pipe. One can control the look of the fill.

Thanks
Bill

 

[torthur]

I've tried once.
In my case it keeps chipping off, but maybe I'm doing something wrong...

 

[Buffalo]

I've had good luck with the minwax stainable wood filler. The trick I figured out is that 1) you need to rough up the inside of the pit and 2) when applying the filler to the pit, you have to make sure that you don't trap air either behind or in the filler.

To rough up the inside of the pit, I use a dental pick and just gently scrape the pit to give it some tooth, then I blow it out with compressed air.

To purge the air out of the filler, I put a small amount on a mixing board (I own a collision shop, so these are what we use for mixing filler, basically a parchment paper sheet). Then, you take either a small putty knife or a razor blade and push the filler down onto the board several times, this will push the air out of the wood filler. When you apply it to the pit(s), I've found that it works better to use the corner of a razor blade to force the filler down into the pit inside of trying to spread it over the pit, which usually traps air under it.

 

[woodrow]

I've had good luck with the minwax stainable wood filler. The trick I figured out is that 1) you need to rough up the inside of the pit and 2) when applying the filler to the pit, you have to make sure that you don't trap air either behind or in the filler.

To rough up the inside of the pit, I use a dental pick and just gently scrape the pit to give it some tooth, then I blow it out with compressed air.

To purge the air out of the filler, I put a small amount on a mixing board (I own a collision shop, so these are what we use for mixing filler, basically a parchment paper sheet). Then, you take either a small putty knife or a razor blade and push the filler down onto the board several times, this will push the air out of the wood filler. When you apply it to the pit(s), I've found that it works better to use the corner of a razor blade to force the filler down into the pit inside of trying to spread it over the pit, which usually traps air under it.

Thanks Buffalo. I’m experimenting with a number of products for stainable fill and minwax appears to be good. There are many that say that the minwax product will not stain, but the jury is out.
Question … I wonder what pipe manufacturers use as fills? I’ve researched but can’t find the answer.
-Bill

 

[Buffalo]

Thanks Buffalo. I’m experimenting with a number of products for stainable fill and minwax appears to be good. There are many that say that the minwax product will not stain, but the jury is out.
Question … I wonder what pipe manufacturers use as fills? I’ve researched but can’t find the answer.
-Bill

I see a lot of fills on the older estate pipes I have worked on. Dr Grabows, Kaywoodies, EA Carey and a myriad of other "workhorse" pipes. From what I have seen is that a lot of the nicer factory made pipes usually don't have fills, but are instead rusticated to mask the imperfections in a piece of briar.

 

[jhowell]

Wood fillers tend to shrink over time loosing their grip. The only one I know of that doesn't is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty - it actually expands for a better grip. I don't believe it stains very well though.

 

[woodrow]

For those following the thread I’ve got a project on pipe fills. Preparing a pdf for those interested. The leader so far is Lepages plastic wood. it stains well. All water clean up products have failed. Pic of the product.