Replacing Cork in Calabash Pipe.

[Rigidman]

Ok I have several of these pipes. I've read several posts about them but no one talks about how to clean thick carbon from them. Been going at it with dental pick. Can't get to it with fingers so can't sand. Will alcohol break it down? I know alcohol is used to sanitize them.

I also need to know what type of cork and glue to use. Some say instrument cork with rubber cement. Others say no rubber cement, use shellac, yet another says epoxy. I also read HO train cork could be used. The stuff used under the tracks. So I'm totally confused.

I have one that the cork is 1/8" thick. But I read to use 1/16" thick cork. I read I should sand cork even with inside of pipe. Another said sand until bowl fits snuggly.!?!?!?!? WTF!!! The later sounds more logical.

The rest have no cork. 1 the insert is glued in so I'll figure out how to deal with it later. Hopefully alcohol will release it. If not I'll try the CA glue deactivater. Maybe try heat too. In the oven around 150°-200°F.

After that I'm lost other than using a dental pick. It's a pain in the ass and sometimes the pick will snag my thumb or hand. I have no idea how to force it to crack.

There are cracks in the insert but its actually meerschaum so its fairly tough. Unless there is a way to soften it. Someone actually cut/broke the top off and sanded it smooth with the top of the gourd. Fricken moron.

I picked 1 broken insert out with a dental pick but that bowl was gypsum. Yes not all bowls are meerschaum of any kind. Now I need to sand the gourd around that area and where the cork goes.

I've read the cork should be cut even and not overlap. I was thinking of cutting it at an angle so its no thicker than the rest. Used to this with gasket material when overhauling envelope folding machines.

Some of the machines didn't have seals made for them any more so we tried several different materials even leather to create a seal. They used to use bronze inserts with o rings but they wore out and started leaking after about a month. Nothing kept it sealed long.

Did this for awhile until I suggested buying an actual seal that would fit the shaft and machine the area open in the oil box to accept the seal.

They had considered it before but I have no idea why they never acted on it. So after the first was figured out they did the rest during the overhaul.

I think I should mention the pipe has a bone (pretty sure its bone) shank extension so I don't want to use anything that will damage it. It has a crack but I'm going to seal it with CA glue.

Just as a filler, it won't pinch together and I don't want to force it. That's how I break stuff. The stem screws in and out fine.

To recap after all the bs, how do I remove heavy carbon? I need to know what type if cork to use and what type of glue?

Should I just use a butt joint for the cork and not worry about angle cutting it? Angle cut just seems
to me to prevent an edge from snagging or popping off.

Thanks for any helpful advice. Stay safe.

 

[Rigidman]

Can synthetic cork be used? Thanks

 

[Rigidman]

There's 2 types of lanoline, oil and a paste/cream. Which should I use? Thanks

 

[Rigidman]

Read another place to use all purpose glue on the cork. Please help. Thanks

 

[captainsousie]

Oddly enough, I would ask a similar set of questions to a woodwind instrument repair specialist. They know a lot more about cork conditioning and repair than we do.

 

[Rigidman]

Oddly enough, I would ask a similar set of questions to a woodwind instrument repair specialist. They know a lot more about cork conditioning and repair than we do.

I also thought about going to the pipe building website or reborn. But I thought there were some people that did restoration here that might know.

I've seen suggestions for the care of the cork, but not much in the way in replacing it or doing a deep clean on a new to you used Calabash gourd estate pipe.

I also think many don't have this type of pipe. I'm also having trouble figuring out the size of the replacement insert.

A large is really close to the actual opening not leaving much room for the cork. The medium seems to be the better choice but the cork needs to be about an 1/8"-3/16" thick.

My other calabash has an insert, its measurement is a little bigger than the large measurement and it doesn't fit. It stops about a 1/4" from seating completely.

Looks like I might just have to dive in and figure it out.

But as for the carbon build up is there an easy way to soften it?

Thanks

 

[smudgersmissingleg]

As far as cleaning the gourd goes I always use Bajikah 176° super strength Vodka. I simply pour some in a little 60ml plastic cup then place that in a container of hot water to warm it (I tried cold Vodka and warm works much better). You just pour it (carefully) in the Cork end and let it sit for about 30 minutes then pour out from the shank end, rinse & repeat until the Vodka comes out almost clear.

I don't know anything about replacing the cork but to condition it I use D'addario all natural cork grease for woodwind instruments that comes in a little chapstick so is easy to apply. It does smell funky but if you let the cork air for a few days it dissappears completely. I've also used Vaseline in the past but I prefer the cork grease as I found the Vaseline made the meerschaum bowl stick a bit.

Hope this helps.

 

[Rigidman]

I think if I could soften the carbon build up and get rid if it 90% of my problem is solved. The rest I'll just figure out.

What it looks like is when the bottom dropped out of the original gypsum insert, they kept smoking it without ever cleaning the gourd and the cake kept collecting in the bottom by the stem.

Thanks

 

[ashdigger]

I use kosher salt and alcohol for interior cleaning. Fill it with kosher salt. Stay below the cork. I then use and eye dropper to moisten the salt. I let it dry and scoop it out. I do this twice. The third time I use salt and alcohol and the next day scoop it out while it’s wet. After I’ve scooped about half of it out I use a plastic spoon I’ve carved on to scrape out the tar and salt. Then I use s hot water rinse to complete the cycle.

Be careful with the alcohol, it’ll dissolve the glue for the cork.

you can buy cork on Amazon. I’d use any glue that’s good grade approved.

 

[Rigidman]

As far as cleaning the gourd goes I always use Bajikah 176° super strength Vodka. I simply pour some in a little 60ml plastic cup then place that in a container of hot water to warm it (I tried cold Vodka and warm works much better). You just pour it (carefully) in the Cork end and let it sit for about 30 minutes then pour out from the shank end, rinse & repeat until the Vodka comes out almost clear.

I don't know anything about replacing the cork but to condition it I use D'addario all natural cork grease for woodwind instruments that comes in a little chapstick so is easy to apply. It does smell funky but if you let the cork air for a few days it dissappears completely. I've also used Vaseline in the past but I prefer the cork grease as I found the Vaseline made the meerschaum bowl stick a bit.

Hope this helps.

I went to a instrument website and searched cork care, the ones that use cork for wood winds use lanoline. Guitarists use grease. They just don't say if its the oil or paste/cream type. I'm going to get the oil. They claim the cork grease leaves an aftertaste.

Vaseline sounds plausible too.

Also checked around some more about type of glue and finally found a restoration at reborn that says all purpose glue because its easier to remove the cork if needed.

In the restoration he mentioned soaking it overnight with alcohol, using alcohol soaked q-tips and pipe cleaners until they came out clean. I think he also used kosher salt in the soak as well. Need to make sure I'm not confusing it with a different restoration. Will have to check again.

Thanks

 

[Rigidman]

I know using alcohol to remove a ghost or to sanitize a briar pipe is SOP. But that's after reaming and sanding the cake out.

I sanded what I could reach. The rest I've been using dental picks to remove it. Its very slow going because I'm sure you can imagine they cover a very small area. It doesn't help the area is very restrictive.

I'm going to try alcohol on a bowl brush. Or a tenon brush. I also have some tooth brushes that may work. Looking into bottle brushes as well.

I have a Fordom type flex shaft grinder but the hand piece can't get into the tight bend.

Thanks

 

[smudgersmissingleg]

I went to a instrument website and searched cork care, the ones that use cork for wood winds use lanoline. Guitarists use grease. They just don't say if its the oil or paste/cream type. I'm going to get the oil. They claim the cork grease leaves an aftertaste.

Vaseline sounds plausible too.

Also checked around some more about type of glue and finally found a restoration at reborn that says all purpose glue because its easier to remove the cork if needed.

In the restoration he mentioned soaking it overnight with alcohol, using alcohol soaked q-tips and pipe cleaners until they came out clean. I think he also used kosher salt in the soak as well. Need to make sure I'm not confusing it with a different restoration. Will have to check again.

Thanks

I've got a few calabashes and have used the cork grease without noticing any aftertaste but ymmv, just go with whatever works best for you.
I hope you repair the cork and get your new bash up and running?.

 

[Chasing Embers]

There's 2 types of lanoline, oil and a paste/cream. Which should I use? Thanks

Grease

 

[smudgersmissingleg]

I know using alcohol to remove a ghost or to sanitize a briar pipe is SOP. But that's after reaming and sanding the cake out.

I sanded what I could reach. The rest I've been using dental picks to remove it. Its very slow going because I'm sure you can imagine they cover a very small area. It doesn't help the area is very restrictive.

I'm going to try alcohol on a bowl brush. Or a tenon brush. I also have some tooth brushes that may work. Looking into bottle brushes as well.

I have a Fordom type flex shaft grinder but the hand piece can't get into the tight bend.

Thanks

Sorry, I forgot to add I use smallish bottle brushes as well, you can buy a set of varying sizes for a couple of quid on ebay.
Just don't be too vigorous with them as you don't want to damage the gourd. They're great because you can bend them to the shape of your specific gourds shape.

 

[BROBS]

I found 1/16” thick adhesive backed cork on eBay. You will need to figure out the thickness you need.
I cut it into strips, then sanded the areas that were too tight as a gourd is not perfectly round. The fit was perfect but I gave the calabash to @rushx9

 

[Rigidman]

Didn't know there was lanolin cork grease. I've seen the instrument cork in various thickness. Also I've read on reborn that he uses all purpose glue on the cork. I actually have some.

My thinking is to get the proper size insert first. After measuring my pipe I believe the large is too big. The inside of the pipe is shaped weird.

Reborn removed the lip from under the cap of the insert to fit it to his pipe then reshaped the outer bowl of the insert. His pipe curved in dramatically so it wouldn't fit without reshaping. It was sort of a short squat pipe.

The top 3/16"-1/4" is slightly bigger than the large insert. Then it tapers in and gets a lot smaller quick. It tapers fairly sharply. And curves toward the shank. Its sort of short and thin.

It's about 1 1/8" about 1/4" past the lip of the pipe. From what I've figured I'll probably need to get the medium insert and get 1/8"-3/16" thick cork. Or a 1/8" sheet and a 1/16" sheet.

Is there a difference between instrument cork and regular cork? The cork I was thinking of using is the type used with a model train setup. But have no problem getting the instrument cork.

I have some nylon brushes to clean briar pipes with. I also have gun cleaning brushes both in brass and nylon. I know the brass is too stiff. I'll give the alcohol soak a try. Then I'll brush it some. Hopefully it'll help me get that junk out.

I just need something to break down the carbon buildup. It's really thick where it bends towards the stem. They just kept smoking it after the bottom came out of the insert. Luckily there's no damage to the gourd.

Trying to get the carbon from the shank end won't be easy with anything but a brush. The screw in tenon is about 1/4", maybe less.

I have some high octane moonshine I can use for the cleaning and soaking. Been flavored with apples. They're in his yard so they're convenient. Tastes good too.

Wonder what it'd taste like if it was aged about 10 years in a rum or a sherry barrel with some apple wood cut offs instead of apples?

Thanks for all the advice. I don't feel so lost anymore. The other pipe has an insert just need to rejuvenate the cork. Been cleaning it too. Its a little bigger. Its longer and narrow. It needs a stem.

Going to see if I have one that'll fit. If not its going to Rich at briarville with another stemless pipe and my pair of Dunhills. One needs a silver band I don't have to protect a repaired crack in the shank. The other needs a crack in the bowl repaired.

Waiting till spring to put my drill press together so I can cut down stem tenons. With my back I'm not messing with it till it warms up.

I have a lot to keep me busy before I even get to the ones needing repairs. I'm doing this handful of pipes because I'm keeping one of the Dunhills and one of the Calabashs and selling the rest. I might put them for sale/trade here first.

I figure everyone's always so helpful so its only fair to let y'all have the first chance at them.

The stemless Savinelli 806 De Luxe I haven't decided if I'm keeping it yet. Rich is going to remove the brass bar from what's left of the stem and put it in a new one.

Thanks for all the advice. I got a better idea how to proceed. Going to check Google about the cork differences. I'm sure the instrument cork has smaller cells and is much finer than regular cork. Maybe more pliable too. I'm sure a much higher grade as well. Found some fairly inexpensive on Etsy.

Thanks

 

[Rigidman]

I found 1/16” thick adhesive backed cork on eBay. You will need to figure out the thickness you need.
I cut it into strips, then sanded the areas that were too tight as a gourd is not perfectly round. The fit was perfect but I gave the calabash to @rushx9

I was thinking about saving some of the carbon powder or using flour or something as a guide coat. Smear it around the insert where it'll touch the cork. Once it covers the cork I'll know its done. Sort of like sanding down a car. You put the guide coat on to find low and high spots.

Not sure if I want to use the adhesive backed cork. May make the installation more difficult. With all purpose glue I'll have some time to work with it and it'll slide around so I can position it better. Then just put some small clamps on to hold it in place. Put some Vaseline or lanolin on the ends of the clamps so they don't stick to the cork.

Thanks

 

[Rigidman]

I've got a few calabashes and have used the cork grease without noticing any aftertaste but ymmv, just go with whatever works best for you.
I hope you repair the cork and get your new bash up and running?.

I'll check the prices. If lanolin cork grease is less expensive compared to pure lanolin oil or cream, l'lI get it. Thanks for the picture.

There's another type of cork grease to. I think its black with a bad smell and after taste. At least that's what I read.

Thanks

 

[Rigidman]

I use kosher salt and alcohol for interior cleaning. Fill it with kosher salt. Stay below the cork. I then use and eye dropper to moisten the salt. I let it dry and scoop it out. I do this twice. The third time I use salt and alcohol and the next day scoop it out while it’s wet. After I’ve scooped about half of it out I use a plastic spoon I’ve carved on to scrape out the tar and salt. Then I use s hot water rinse to complete the cycle.

Be careful with the alcohol, it’ll dissolve the glue for the cork.

you can buy cork on Amazon. I’d use any glue that’s good grade approved.

I always wondered about the salt deal. Is there that much of a difference between kosher salt and regular table salt? I have some so I know kosher salt grains are bigger. Think I read they're chemically different as well.

Thanks

 

[Chasing Embers]

Is there that much of a difference between kosher salt and regular table salt?

Not really for pipe purposes, but I've abandoned salt altogether for cotton balls.