Repairing Cracked Button?

[JoeRock97]

Hi everybody!
I received an old pipe, which I’ve used for a while and really enjoyed it.

I recently cracked the button of the stem while cleaning it (very stupidly I reckon) which resulted in two separate pieces that complete each other (like a broken drinking glass- the main part, and a chipped part, which complete each other to the full stem).

Now after reading some posts here, watching some videos, and some google searches, I’ve used some 2 stage epoxy, with activated charcoal to try and fix the break.

I’m not so sure of my work, and wanted to get some input on the restoration process- have I made any errors, can you smoke with the epoxy residue in the button, what steps should I take from now, is it possible to restore the stem and continue to use the pipe or should I just get another stem or a whole other pipe?

I am quite new to this and I have much to learn, so any help is very appreciated!

 

[kcghost]

It is best to ask these questions prior to doing anything. Listening to @georged or to @RustiePyles CPG will give you the best advice. If I recall correctly, they don't use epoxy glue on a pipe.

 

[JoeRock97]

It is best to ask these questions prior to doing anything. Listening to @georged or to @RustiePyles CPG will give you the best advice. If I recall correctly, they don't use epoxy glue on a pipe.

Oof

Yeah I understand. It’s just that all the superglues I found were labeled as to not be in contact with skin..
plus online the searches said that epoxy is better for these materials..

As you can tell I’m kinda lost in the process

 

[Briarcutter]

Oof

Yeah I understand. It’s just that all the superglues I found were labeled as to not be in contact with skin..
plus online the searches said that epoxy is better for these materials..

As you can tell I’m kinda lost in the process

As far as I know, cyanoacrylate (super glue) is non toxic when dried. You probably want to keep it away from the skin in liquid form though

 

[JoeRock97]

As far as I know, cyanoacrylate (super glue) is non toxic when dried. You probably want to keep it away from the skin in liquid form though

So would you say I could remove the part and ”re-glue” it using super glue and activated charcoal? And should I?

 

[xrundog]

So would you say I could remove the part and ”re-glue” it using super glue and activated charcoal? And should I?

Can you remove it? Will all the epoxy come off? I don’t know. Bob Smith industries has some great black rubber formula CA glue. Gluing it, wet sanding smooth and buffing would be the way to go. Breaks at the bit are tough because thats where you put pressure on it. Depends on what the break is like. Even if you do a great job, it might still show. Worth a try though.

 

[Briarcutter]

So would you say I could remove the part and ”re-glue” it using super glue and activated charcoal? And should I?

If I were in your position I'd make a new mouthpiece or have one made. The break you're describing sounds pretty severe and even if glued will soon fail. I don't have much faith in "glueing" mouthpieces but others here may have good experiences.

 

[georged]

Here's the solution when the damage allows it. (Every case is different)

99% of cases where this won't work means New Stem Time

Replacing Lost Vulcanite Stem Material

Share your videos with friends, family, and the world

www.youtube.com

 

[AroEnglish]

@JoeRock97 do you think you can do George's suggestion above with your stem?

 

[JoeRock97]

Hey everyone, thanks a lot for your responses!

I thought the repair I did with the epoxy worked, but after giving it a real time test I found out it failed .

Not sure if it’s because I didn’t prep the surface with sanding (which I would rather not to do really, because the piece fits perfectly now to its original spot, and after sanding I’m afraid there will be gaps)
Or if it’s because the brand of epoxy I used (it says it’s good for 120 Celsius).

Not sure how to proceed from here-
Try again with another type of stronger epoxy? Maybe use superglue?

I’ll try to link pictures later (my phone camera isn’t really in good shape)
Thanks again for your help!

 

[JoeRock97]

Hey everyone, thanks a lot for your responses!

I thought the repair I did with the epoxy worked, but after giving it a real time test I found out it failed .

Not sure if it’s because I didn’t prep the surface with sanding (which I would rather not to do really, because the piece fits perfectly now to its original spot, and after sanding I’m afraid there will be gaps)
Or if it’s because the brand of epoxy I used (it says it’s good for 120 Celsius).

Not sure how to proceed from here-
Try again with another type of stronger epoxy? Maybe use superglue?

I’ll try to link pictures later (my phone camera isn’t really in good shape)
Thanks again for your help!

 

[JoeRock97]

The epoxy I used (that subsequently failed)

 

[woodrow]

Mendable. But for this I’d check out what George D posted. The stuff is marvellous for larger areas. @georged

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