Thank you everyone for your advice, I see multiple options here and will decide carefully. Definitely don't want to stain it if it isn't necessary
Re-Staining An Estate Pipe
- Thread starter Effortlessdepths
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Would this product do as recorder oil?Your pipe looks to be in fine condition and quite clean.
So give it a gentle cleaning and a hand polish before you decide to give it a good going-over.
If so, I would most carefully clean it with some luke warm water and a microfibre cloth.
It will also clean the rim nicely from debris.
Be careful when using soap, it could compromise the staining !
Give it some mineral oil ( not vegetable, it will go rancid ) .
I prefer parrafin- or recorder oil . A few drops will do. Wipe of the access and polish it with a mf cloth.
If you feel like waxing , it depends on what is available.
Applying carnauba wax takes skill and a buffer, there are waxes that can be applied by hand.
I often use Renaissance ( conservators ) wax if I do not feel like the "plastic" shine of carnauba.
There is actually little reason to wax your pipe, unless your hands are dirty, sweaty etc.
Carnauba also seals the briar which is, I believe, it not always prefferable.
I like my briars to "breathe" and therefore prefer a more frequent oil treatment.
Micromesh pads are good !
Keep asking, we learn every day
She kills atmadillo's, sweet gentle armadillo's ?
I'm appalled .
Do they dig holes in the yard ?
Could be, depends on the contents. Suppose it is basically the same.
Recorder oil ( from Mollenhauer ) is twice refined linseed oil which is an entirely different animal than the boiled oil.
Is also contains vitamin E . Thin as water and odourless. The briar soaks it in and will polish to a
wonderful semi gloss shine.
Yes they do, especially here in Florida. Invasive and troublesome, and since pitties are actually hunting dogs she is pretty good at it. I actually hired her out a few times when she was younger
I have an Amazon cart full of the things I need but can't find the mollenhauer oil. Could I trouble you to find or suggest something alternative that I can get off Amazon?
Sure, first thing tomorrow.
I'm turning in now
I purchased mine in a physical store for musical instuments, - equipment etc.
Is it just me or is that what looks to be a straight bit on a bent pipe? You can’t quite see the button end but it looks pretty straight.
Wow. That’s some killer Birdseye!Fiebing's leather dye works well, I use a brown, sand it down and followed by a lighter tan for a contrast stain.
For the "shine" you will need some kind of coating. I use tripoli, followed by carnauba on a hand drill mounted buffing wheel ($11 including the tripoli at Home Depot). You may be able to get away with hand buffing with carnauba wax but it won't look like a factory shine.
Yep. I bought this pipe in a naked finish for $45. Smokes like a champ.
Mollenhauer 6135 Oil for Recorders
Mollenhauer 6135 Blockflötenöl. Ein wichtiger Pflegevorgang ist das regelmäßige Ölen des Instrumentes. Alle Holzblockflöten müssen in gewissen Zeitabständen (abhängig von Holzart und Beanspruchung) geölt werden, denn jedes Holz braucht Schutz und...
www.thomann.de
To clean the surface you can also use 0000 steelwool with some drops of Ballistol oil. Gently rub then let it rest for 15 minutes then repeat the procedure and after that rub the surface (whole pipe) with a soft cloth or microfiber cloth. Then you may apply wax. I prefer Paragon.
Thank you Kottan; this is one :
Mollenhauer 6135 Oil for Recorders
Recorder oil An important maintenance procedure is the regular oiling of the instrument, All wooden blocks must be oiled at certain intervals (depending on type of wood and use), as every wood needs protection, and the flute, which is confronted...
www.thomann.de
Odd, it is not available on Amazon.com.
Suppose the Music-Nomad will do fine.
Thomann.de also ships abroad.
Paragon and Renaissance wax are basically the same if you study the product sheets.Mollenhauer 6135 Oil for Recorders
Mollenhauer 6135 Blockflötenöl. Ein wichtiger Pflegevorgang ist das regelmäßige Ölen des Instrumentes. Alle Holzblockflöten müssen in gewissen Zeitabständen (abhängig von Holzart und Beanspruchung) geölt werden, denn jedes Holz braucht Schutz und...
To clean the surface you can also use 0000 steelwool with some drops of Ballistol oil. Gently rub then let it rest for 15 minutes then repeat the procedure and after that rub the surface (whole pipe) with a soft cloth or microfiber cloth. Then you may apply wax. I prefer Paragon.
Paragon is way more expensive and has a trifle lower melting point ( so heat resistance ) than Renaissance.
Recorder oil is "sophisticated " , but I like to spoil my briars.
As said any mineral oil will do, parrafin oil is fine too and is available at any drugstore.
If memory serves me correctly Rainer Barbi was quite positive about it.
As said any mineral oil will do, parrafin oil is fine too and is available at any drugstore.
If memory serves me correctly Rainer Barbi was quite positive about it.
You wouldn’t be able to smoke it that way. The smoking bowl of tobacco would be pointing right at your face. You would need to fit a bent stem.
I’ve restored about 100 this past year and a half. Stained about 30 of em. Fiebings dye. Often times if they’re old enough, just a light sanding then Tripoli buff it. Lots of color comes back from the wax base. Find I don’t need to stain a lot that way. Sorry I didn’t read each post on this thread so maybe irrelevant now.
I have refinished 2 pipes so far, have 2 more to do. I did a Dr Plumb Rhodesian and an old Brigham. The Brigham is rusticated so I attempted a contrast finish, it turned out ok but not that great.
The Dr Plumb, needed 3 cracks repaired, which I did with 2 part epoxy. I'm quite pleased with how this one turned out in the end. Brigham had 1 big crack in the bowl.
I used Fiebings leather dye to get the finish I was after. I did a base layer of yellow, followed by a couple top coats of a 75/25 of Oxblood and black. The end result is a nice deep red.
I will try and get some pictures posted of them.
The Dr Plumb, needed 3 cracks repaired, which I did with 2 part epoxy. I'm quite pleased with how this one turned out in the end. Brigham had 1 big crack in the bowl.
I used Fiebings leather dye to get the finish I was after. I did a base layer of yellow, followed by a couple top coats of a 75/25 of Oxblood and black. The end result is a nice deep red.
I will try and get some pictures posted of them.
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