Re-shaping new pipes?

[velotrain]

I've decided I like large pipes, and recently bought three of them - one Mario Grandi and two Don Florian. I like the heft of them in my hand, although can appreciate that many do not care for ~300 grams clenched between their teeth. I did some research first on the Florians, and found there's general agreement that he has low prices for some really big, gorgeous plateau blocks - including large fans. I found one comment - that may have got me going on this idea, that you could consider his pipes as partially completed kits. On the downside, he doesn't seem to care about detail - or symmetry for that matter, and basically just rounds the corners and doesn't pay much attention to aesthetics and finishing, as the chambers are on the crude side.
I didn't look very carefully at the Grandi on eBay before buying it, having liked the basic shape and very good grain, but after getting his pipe think you could say much the same about him. All of these pipes tend to have a basically square shape (seen from the top or bottom) with rounded corners, with minimal consideration given to the idea of someone actually holding them. Some of this relates to the current Feel Good Pipes thread, which I might define as hand feel. What I'd like to do with all of these is to modify them to be more comfortable for my own grip.
The Mario Grandi works fairly well, but I'd like to remove some wood from the area where the bowl meets the shank, so I have a more comfortable thumb-rest. He often uses this bowl shape, which insistently stands out from the shank, rather than blending seamlessly into it. Since the issue is my right thumb in particular, I may make an asymmetrical modification. Since there is room to play with, I might also try to give the entire bowl a more elliptical shape.

The Don Florian short fan has a somewhat similar issue as the Grandi, but since the bowl is longer an overall bigger stretch is required. Overall, this pipe is the most rounded of the three - although, the orientation of the bowl is not well aligned with the shank and stem.

The large Florian fan is the most problematic, and I realize this is largely due to the sheer size of it. However, of the three it is the one where I feel the least aesthetic effort has been made.

One possible direction is that of this David Jones pipe (won last night), although I'm not sure I wish to insert a hole. I'm thinking that the pinched waist between the stem and chamber will make it more visually pleasing, while also providing a more comfortable grip.

I feel comfortable with the re-shaping process, likely using rasps/files and sandpaper, and possibly a Dremel. What I don't know is if the alcohol + salt process will remove the stain from the briar, or just the wax coating? Since I'll be altering the surface, I'll want to remove the existing stain before starting and apply a new coat when I'm done.
I'm sure some (most/all ?) of you consider this whole idea blasphemy, and I'll admit to having gotten more used to the existing shapes through smoking the pipes several times. I still would like to try this, starting with just one pipe to see how it goes - probably the big fan, as I find it the most objectionable, both in terms of appearance and ergonomics.
Has anyone ever done something similar? Any suggestions?
thanks, Charles

 

[crashthegrey]

Sanding is probably the best way to remove the stain, unfortunately.

 

[ejames]

Salt and alcohol is used inside the bowl--not on the outside. Since you're going to be reshaping these you best bet I'd say is just to sand the stain off.

 

[velotrain]

ejames - I had read this post on the forum:
http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/by-request-the-restoration-of-my-masterson-freehand
where alcohol (apparently sans salt) was used to clean off the exterior of the full stummel.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Yes, you can use alcohol on the outside if you wan to remove the wax and patina that's there. For some finishes, alcohol won't remove it, and can be used to take away dirt and oils. I'd say the majority of good briars don't have an impervious finish.

 

[lonestar]

There is not much if any stain on those pipes, I wouldn't worry too much about that. If anything a light tan or yellow stain over the entire pipe that has mostly been buffed off.

Pipe #1 I suspect the airway is going to be pretty close to the top of the shank, especially near the bowl. There is probably extra meat there that can come off, but being able to eyeball that area and judge how much wood to remove can be tricky. Many a pipe maker has tossed a perfectly good pipe after sanding into the top of an airway!

Pipe # 2, don't touch that shank at all. It could certainly be refined better, but you will almost surely get it thinner than it should be. The work to make the shank more graceful should have been done when the pipe was being made. At this point the amount of wood left is really how much you want there. Now the bowl obviously could lose a lot, but I'm not sure you will acheive much more aesthetically by removing it. If you do, be sure to stay away from the shank the whole time you're working, and I wouldn't remove anything from the bottom of the pipe either.

Pipe #3 you could pinch the sides. Just be sure to keep checking where the airway is as you work, and don't get too close to it or the mortise. This pipe may be the hardest to match stain too. It probably has a darker stain that has been buffed nearly completely off.

 

[velotrain]

Thanks much for the analysis and advice Ryan.
In general I don't plan to touch the shanks, and will draw a pencil line of the airway on the sides before starting. I just checked the first pipe, and the airway is mid-shank. In any event, my thought was to create a plan to work in a restricted area, is trying to protect the surrounding briar and then staining the work zone a thumb notch in the right side of the bowl just above the shank. Also, as you can see in the side photo, there's a flat spot at the rear of the bowl that I don't care for. One thing I might consider on this pipe, since I only somewhat different shade.
My aesthetic concerns are with the bowl shapes on pipes 1 and 3, and I also want a better grip / hand feel on all of them - I'm fine with the shanks (where applicable I'm thinking that I may naturally remove all or most of the stain on pipe #3 from the planned work, so will just sand off anything remaining when I smooth the sides for restaining.
> Just be sure to keep checking where the airway is as you work, and don't get too close to it or the mortise
If you look at the David Jones pipe, it's quite narrow on the plateau / top side, but broader at the bottom, so I'd plan to follow that approach. Also, it's a sitter of sorts, so I'd mark off an "untouchable" area at the bottom before starting work. I'm not ruling out a hole, but will only consider it post-narrowing.
Charles