Question on Potentially Sanding Down a Briar Chamber

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CallMeSangy

Starting to Get Obsessed
May 12, 2022
131
362
Central Virginia
I have a few pipes I've bought recently that don't have the smoothest chambers. Would sanding down key areas on these pipes cause any issues that might lead to adverse effects like a burnout? And if I can sand it down, what grit would be recommended?

Not the worst problem in the universe, though a nice, smooth chamber is preferable.
 

CallMeSangy

Starting to Get Obsessed
May 12, 2022
131
362
Central Virginia
I'm not following what your asking. Is this an unsmoked pipe? Or, are you talking about cake control? Georged does recommend using sandpaper for removing excess cake, but I suspect by your wording that you are talking about something far more aggressive.
It's pure briar that was still left in. for instance, a Nording I have has grooves on the inside reminiscent of the drill bit. Another is a Rattray that oddly has vertical streaks going up the sides of the chamber. At first I thought it was cake build up, at least on the part of the Rattray, but i'm not sure about that since I try to keep cake as reasonably little as I can.

Part of me wants to just sand and smooth it down, but even the idea of a self-caused burnout has me apprehensive. I'm overly cautious of the idea of a burnout, almost to the extent of paranoia, so i'm just being as careful as possible.
I'd be inclined to gently ream it with a good quality reamer.
Another question, perhaps a tad pedantic or just weird, but how gentle do you mean? Hmm... I've yet to invest in a reamer, since I try not to get myself into a situation that may call for one, but learning's part of the process.

Thanks for the responses.
 

anotherbob

Lifer
Mar 30, 2019
16,660
31,229
46
In the semi-rural NorthEastern USA
certainly are being paranoid. Just leave it as is and it won't even make a noticeable difference to anyone not overly looking for perfection ;) (sorry not sure how to better word it to get the point across that it just doesn't matter and makes zero difference to ones smoking experience unless one is looking too hard for something to be off).
 

edger

Lifer
Dec 9, 2016
3,025
22,700
75
Mayer AZ
After a few smokes I like to scrub out the chamber with a dampened piece of scotch brite. It prevents cake buildup and leaves those manufacturing marks smoothed out. I buy the big sheets of scotch brite from HarborFreight and cut them up to fit the chamber fairly tight with enough sticking out for me to twist pretty aggressively. I then rinse them out and use them again.
 

bullet08

Lifer
Nov 26, 2018
10,199
41,436
RTP, NC. USA
If it's brand new pipe, don't do anything to it. Just smoke it. If it's used/estate pipe and there's cake, ream it with not too sharp knife. To ream, you just scratch the cake with light pressure evenly around the chamber wall. You will notice carbon being scraped off. Don't ream the bare briar.
 

UB 40

Lifer
Jul 7, 2022
1,350
9,801
62
Cologne/ Germany
nahbesprechung.net
Doesn't roughness increase the surface area, helping it to breathe? ;)

Once in a while I read of the of „breathing briar“ or that it will become brittle when it’s getting old.

The breathing thing is just a romantic idea, also the assumption briar could soak up a certain amount of condensation. In both cases the cell structure of Briar is just to dense as in any other hard wood.

There is no way to get any air flow through it. Or any exchange of fluids. If you try to stain briar the alcohol dilution only reaches a fraction of a millimetre into the wood.

What’s true, is that briar as any other wood accommodates to different levels of air humidity, once the cell water and saps of the living briar bowl has been dried out. But the process of taking in humidity takes some time. It’s not a sponge.

What happens when the surface of the inner bowl is rough is presenting slightly more expanse to the glowing ember, maybe slightly more wood gets burned at first light, the smell and taste of burned briar might get more intense. But anyways it’s soon going to build a charcoal coating, that isolates it from the heat.

It’s just a sign of bad craftsmanship, of bad drilling.

And another thing about briar: it’s actually harder than white oak. It’s not going to be brittle or fragile over the times as i read in another thread few days ago. As any other wood it’s getting even harder. In that process it gets stronger but looses some flexibility, so it might break and not bend if strong forces are applied.

Have you ever tried to get a nail into a 100 year old oak beam? You can’t do it.
 
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CallMeSangy

Starting to Get Obsessed
May 12, 2022
131
362
Central Virginia
At the very least I'm now reassured that there's nothing to worry about. Quite a few interesting takes to take in. I should have mentioned all of my mentiomed pipes have had at least 10-20 bowls at the time of writing. Just new pipes I'm either in the process of breaking in or recently have broken in. But that Rattray still has me feeling odd.

20221116_182701.jpg
You can faintly see the edges on this Nording here. I'll just try my best to ignore it as I can. Excuse the terrible rim charring. Tried to pipe it off and just made it worse. This is my first Devil Anse, and I'm often lighting the rim more than the tobacco because of its long stem, unfortunately. Live and learn haha.

But the Rattray, which I tried my hardest to get a picture of, the briar is oddly sticking up on the inside. Now for some reason the briar has these odd squares. I had thought them to be vertical streaks last time I mentioned them, but now I'm a bit confused. These small squares seem to be on multiple sides of the chamber. I wonder how that ended up happening. Seems more purposeful than anything else at this point.20221116_183345.jpg