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K.E. Powell

Part of the Furniture Now
Aug 20, 2022
608
2,255
37
West Virginia
Basically, yes. I prefer a very thorough charring light, as I find it makes relights both easier when needed, and needed fewer times overall. Weather permitting, I use a sulfur-free match and let it burn for a brief moment. Once it settles, as it were, I hover the flame just above the tobacco and draw the flame to it in long pulls, circling the whole as I do it.

How much I do this depends on a few things, but generally, I try to make the ember as even and encompassing as I can without overly torching the tobacco. When a relight is necessary, I first tamp lightly and make sure the ashes are distributed evenly, and tap out ashes if I have excess of them. In a moderate sized bowl with an agreeable baccy, I should only have to tap ashes 2-3 times at the most, providing my tamping and charring light was done right the first time. Of course, proper packing is a major factor too.

I don't force the ember after the charring light(s) are done, though. I try to nurse the flame with a good, constant, but even cadence, being sure to take my time but to not neglect my pipe, either. If I do relight, it is usually with my zippo, and it is just a couple of brief "kisses" of the flame. One of the big mistakes I made as a beginner was that I thought relights required me to really torch the baccy. It doesn't. If you did things right and you're not dealing with obstinate tobacco, a simple kiss or two from the flame will be more than enough to get your pipe going again, and it won't overheat your tobacco and give tongue bite.
 

anotherbob

Lifer
Mar 30, 2019
16,835
31,582
46
In the semi-rural NorthEastern USA
I wouldn't say it has to be perfect but getting it mostly even across the whole top is best. This is one of the places where proper packing helps. And for me doing the false light and the char light seems to really help. Consider the first light to be mainly getting it dried and charred enough to easily and gently tamp the top into a mostly flat surface. Hope that helps.
 

Briar Lee

Lifer
Sep 4, 2021
4,960
14,356
Humansville Missouri
I’ve done it so many times it’s an automatic, unconscious action. I don’t rightly know.

I’m looking down at the half smoked ember of Half and Half in a Lee Three Star medium billiard and it’s level and white all the way across.

When I’m finished all the ashes just flip out in an ashtray with hardly any dottle.

I might as well explain how I make chord changes on a guitar, or shoot skeet. I’ve done it so much I just do it.
 

Coreios

Lifer
Sep 23, 2022
1,637
2,722
42
United States Of America
Basically, yes. I prefer a very thorough charring light, as I find it makes relights both easier when needed, and needed fewer times overall. Weather permitting, I use a sulfur-free match and let it burn for a brief moment. Once it settles, as it were, I hover the flame just above the tobacco and draw the flame to it in long pulls, circling the whole as I do it.

How much I do this depends on a few things, but generally, I try to make the ember as even and encompassing as I can without overly torching the tobacco. When a relight is necessary, I first tamp lightly and make sure the ashes are distributed evenly, and tap out ashes if I have excess of them. In a moderate sized bowl with an agreeable baccy, I should only have to tap ashes 2-3 times at the most, providing my tamping and charring light was done right the first time. Of course, proper packing is a major factor too.

I don't force the ember after the charring light(s) are done, though. I try to nurse the flame with a good, constant, but even cadence, being sure to take my time but to not neglect my pipe, either. If I do relight, it is usually with my zippo, and it is just a couple of brief "kisses" of the flame. One of the big mistakes I made as a beginner was that I thought relights required me to really torch the baccy. It doesn't. If you did things right and you're not dealing with obstinate tobacco, a simple kiss or two from the flame will be more than enough to get your pipe going again, and it won't overheat your tobacco and give tongue bite.
Great info, thanks!
 

NomadOrb

(Nomadorb)
Feb 20, 2020
1,679
13,719
SoCal
Im getting better about smoking but I still get tongue bite from time to time I thought maybe that was another cause.
Aside from some blends that are just tongue bitey, most of that will be corrected by puffing cadence and strength. Remember to sip the pipe like you're sipping hot tea/coffee, if the pipe gets too warm, let it go out and relight when it's cooled down.

If you're having a hard time achieving the correct cadence, it could be due to packing or moisture content of the tobacco. Pipes can seem fussy when first starting, but eventually it becomes second nature with very little thought put into it.
 

Coreios

Lifer
Sep 23, 2022
1,637
2,722
42
United States Of America
Than
Aside from some blends that are just tongue bitey, most of that will be corrected by puffing cadence and strength. Remember to sip the pipe like you're sipping hot tea/coffee, if the pipe gets too warm, let it go out and relight when it's cooled down.

If you're having a hard time achieving the correct cadence, it could be due to packing or moisture content of the tobacco. Pipes can seem fussy when first starting, but eventually it becomes second nature with very little thought put into it.
Thanks, any advice on tongue bite is helpful!
 
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Winnipeger

Lifer
Sep 9, 2022
1,288
9,693
Winnipeg
Make sure your tobacco is fairly dry — meaning drier than you think. It shouldn't crumble to dust, but short of that, a little crispy on the outside so it doesn't clump together when you squeeze it is good. This is accomplished by exposing it to air for a while — maybe overnight if it's a full tin or jar — or to a microwave for 10 seconds, in a pinch.

Don't fill the chamber too tight.

Then, gently light it once with fire. Smoke and tamp it a minute. Light it again, gently. Repeat until the ember spreads across the chamber.
 

Coreios

Lifer
Sep 23, 2022
1,637
2,722
42
United States Of America
Make sure your tobacco is fairly dry — meaning drier than you think. It shouldn't crumble to dust, but short of that, a little crispy on the outside so it doesn't clump together when you squeeze it is good. This is accomplished by exposing it to air for a while — maybe overnight if it's a full tin or jar — or to a microwave for 10 seconds, in a pinch.

Don't fill the chamber too tight.

Then, gently light it once with fire. Smoke and tamp it a minute. Light it again, gently. Repeat until the ember spreads across the chamber.
I been doing the microwave a lot with great success. Good info thanks!
 
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bullet08

Lifer
Nov 26, 2018
10,340
41,825
RTP, NC. USA
Took me awhile for this to kick in. You don't want huge ball of fire or ember. But you do want the entire surface to be touched and ember under them. Meaning, you want to move the fire around and not stay on one spot. And you might have to do it more than once. Once you get used to it, it's not that involved. Until then, false light can actually help.
 

Coreios

Lifer
Sep 23, 2022
1,637
2,722
42
United States Of America
Took me awhile for this to kick in. You don't want huge ball of fire or ember. But you do want the entire surface to be touched and ember under them. Meaning, you want to move the fire around and not stay on one spot. And you might have to do it more than once. Once you get used to it, it's not that involved. Until then, false light can actually help.
Thanks will note.
 
I do not worry about getting the cherry to go all the way across... because the more area around the cherry, the more flavor I get from the oils from the warmed leaf being released than the leaf directly in combustion. This is why they key to more flavor is to smoke the pipe on the edge of going out.

However, I am aware that this is not the consensus of the forum here. So, pipesmoking being a personal endeavor, just experiment and figure out what works best for you.
 

bluegrassbrian

Your Mom's Favorite Pipe Smoker
Aug 27, 2016
6,674
64,554
41
Louisville
Being part of an active pipe club, I've seen dozens of new pipe smokers stop in with us for a pipe. Many of them seek answers to their problems and by far the most common is, "I can't keep my pipe lit" or "if I stop puffing it goes out".

I'll watch them light a pipe and the problem is usually a sub-optimal charring light. I've shown so many how to get a thorough charring light and nearly all of them return and say they've gotten improved results.
 

edger

Lifer
Dec 9, 2016
3,036
22,812
75
Mayer AZ
With Falcons the draft is directed toward the walls of the chamber not the center of the chamber. This, I think, is why they function so well, and consume all the tobacco in the chamber efficiently.
With standard “center” draw briars and meerschaums, I place the round tamper of a pipe nail over the ember and draw a few times to force the air around the tamper toward the walls of the chamber. Works for me!
 
Jan 28, 2018
14,032
158,116
67
Sarasota, FL
I think more important is to keep the flame above and of the tobacco. A slow, steady pull on the pipe vs quick puffs is far better while lighting. I don't bother looking at the amber, I pay attention to the draw and how much smoke I'm getting. When that's right, I figure it is lit properly. Usually takes two or three lights, followed by a light tamp, to get the pipe going properly.