The real difference comes out with micro mesh of 6400 to 12000. It just creates that polished glass like, sparkling, deep black look. I usually go 1200-4800, the rub the stem dry with a clean cloth and polish in some Maquire's Scratch X 2, then do micro mesh up to 12k. All sanding is done with a good amount of water, and you need to make sure to rub the stem clean after each grit and get fresh water. Don't be lazy and reuse the old water, it has tons of the lower grit stuff in it and you won't get the real effect.
Project Log - Dunhill Root Briar & Savinelli De Luxe Milano - Pics
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Photo update as promised.
As previously noted. I used the beat-up stem of the Dunhill above to practice polishing up stems. I intend to have a new stem made, but couldn't pass up the practice. Here it is after oxy soak, a light steel wool scrub, and magic eraser. Can't wait to go get me some micro mesh.
I'm also refinishing the stand that came with these pipes. So this photo shows the top of the stand with the stain removed, and the bottom with the stain still applied. Nice to see the walnut.
As always, thanks for the continued tips, shout-outs and support.
-- Pat
As previously noted. I used the beat-up stem of the Dunhill above to practice polishing up stems. I intend to have a new stem made, but couldn't pass up the practice. Here it is after oxy soak, a light steel wool scrub, and magic eraser. Can't wait to go get me some micro mesh.
I'm also refinishing the stand that came with these pipes. So this photo shows the top of the stand with the stain removed, and the bottom with the stain still applied. Nice to see the walnut.
As always, thanks for the continued tips, shout-outs and support.
-- Pat
Gents,
This is a great thread and am learning a lot from reading this.
Pruss/Hfearly - when you are wet sanding with the high grits is this done by hand or are you using a tool for this? Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question but I really want to get into this.
Thanks,
Dan
This is a great thread and am learning a lot from reading this.
Pruss/Hfearly - when you are wet sanding with the high grits is this done by hand or are you using a tool for this? Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question but I really want to get into this.
Thanks,
Dan
Hey Dan,
I'm doing all sanding by hand. I use plastic ziploc containers about three inches deep with water and am constantly wetting my abrasive in the water, to rinse off grit/dust and keep the paper/wool wet. Once I can't see bottom, or it becomes tea-coloured I change the water out.
Makes for a useful thing to do with a baseball game on in the background.
-- Pat
I'm doing all sanding by hand. I use plastic ziploc containers about three inches deep with water and am constantly wetting my abrasive in the water, to rinse off grit/dust and keep the paper/wool wet. Once I can't see bottom, or it becomes tea-coloured I change the water out.
Makes for a useful thing to do with a baseball game on in the background.
-- Pat
Hey Pruss,
that button of the Dunny looks like it's gonna be some work yet ;-)
You can probably get the dent out with a heat gun, but in my opinion you might need to end up cutting the stem and filing a new button.
that button of the Dunny looks like it's gonna be some work yet ;-)
You can probably get the dent out with a heat gun, but in my opinion you might need to end up cutting the stem and filing a new button.
Hand sanding. Even bowls that I intend to re-stain I sand off by hand. Tools are great for raw work, but nothing beats the precision of hand sanding for the final touch. It's a good workout, too.
Brother, you're telling me.
I'm actually going to have a new stem made. I know it's probably silly to do this, given that I've topped the bowl slightly. But I really want to have a stem of the right length to accompany the Dunny. I already have to send the Savinelli out for a new stem. So why not do both?
I'm going to have to check out some youtube videos on using heat to lift tooth chatter out of stems. I'm so afraid that I'll cause irreparable harm with a heat gun. 8O
Cheers,
-- Pat
Thanks gents. I hit the Home Depot at lunch and picked up some Oxy Clean, some Bartenders Friend ( a tip from reborn pipes)a box of magic eraser, and some 600 and 800 wet/dry sand paper. Those were the finest grits that they had. I will start looking on line for the super fine stuff that hfearly uses.
I have a pipe that I picked up at an antique store with my rack that looks like a wolverine was gnawing on it. Its a shame since she actually smokes really nice. I am gonna practice on that stem first and see if I cant smooth down the lip and the top of the stem.
I totally love this website. I have learned so much in one month it is unbelievable.
Dan
I have a pipe that I picked up at an antique store with my rack that looks like a wolverine was gnawing on it. Its a shame since she actually smokes really nice. I am gonna practice on that stem first and see if I cant smooth down the lip and the top of the stem.
I totally love this website. I have learned so much in one month it is unbelievable.
Dan
Dan, if you can't find Micromesh pads in your area, look in the car section for "headlight repair" - they have micro sanding of up to 8000. Also, the "body repair" isle in the car section should have some ultra fine sanding paper 800 to 3,000.
Hfearly - thanks for the tip, I will check that out. I was going to order some Carnauba online and some mesh pads as well, but I have an auto part store right down the street. Now if I could just get some wax locally 
Sam - I do look forward to meeting you and Les. I would love to see your refurb work. Maybe you can give me some tips as well
Dan
Sam - I do look forward to meeting you and Les. I would love to see your refurb work. Maybe you can give me some tips as well
Dan
Time for the unveiling... I've gone and done it friends. Buffing system is finally up and in place, and after practicing on some other estates I've been working on, I fired up the beal wheels to take these two pipes through Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnauba.
I'm going to send them off this week to Mike Meyers to have replacement stems produced. I am very happy with my finished result, and want to thank everyone here for the constant support, feedback and advice to help me get to this point. I still have a tonne to learn, but know that I will so long as I stay active on PM Forums. You guys are aces.
Without any further...
Savinelli DeLuxe Milano
1968 Dunhill Root Briar
Together... Forever as they are firmly in my collection (first projects are like that for me!)
The Pipe Cave!
I'm going to send them off this week to Mike Meyers to have replacement stems produced. I am very happy with my finished result, and want to thank everyone here for the constant support, feedback and advice to help me get to this point. I still have a tonne to learn, but know that I will so long as I stay active on PM Forums. You guys are aces.
Without any further...
Savinelli DeLuxe Milano
1968 Dunhill Root Briar
Together... Forever as they are firmly in my collection (first projects are like that for me!)
The Pipe Cave!
Thanks guys. Now I need to finish the refinishing job on my 12-pipe stand, and make room for some new pipes in the pipe cave. Having a bugger of a time finding new pipes to work on though. I need someone to post a bunch of reasonable estates on flea-bay for me to gobble up and transform.
-- Pat
-- Pat
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