Pipe Restoration Series #1: My First Restoration! Rusticated Author (Bulldog?) with Metal Condenser. P1

[JPremo]

Hello all! I've taken up the hobby of pipe restoration and I picked out my first victim!

This is part one of the photo album, before any work is done. I'll take any and all suggestions into consideration as this is my first project so feel free to lend me some tips!
Full Gallery with Descriptions

I'm aiming to get a similar look to this style of staining when it's finished, black in the deep ridges and mahogany for the raised parts.

 

[Chasing Embers]

It will likely smoke wet with that stinger in place. Looks good so far but I would ditch the stinger.

 

[JPremo]

It will likely smoke wet with that stinger in place. Looks good so far but I would ditch the stinger.

Just got done with the stem and it's easily removable, looks like I lucked out and didn't get one that was glued in place.

 

[mikethompson]

You've already cleaned up the stem? Lets see some pictures then!

How do you plan on removing the existing colour from the bowl?

 

[ssjones]

The stinger is friction fit - soak the tenon in a depth of alcohol, and gently work it out. Getting those groves stained darker is going to be tricky. Pick up some hobby paint sticks and work slowly. (use black or dark brown)

 

[Wifesbain]

For the grooves, how about these guys:

the tube is 18ga. Some of the fine pottery houses use them to apply glaze into tiny grooves. The raised edge of the groove keeps it from running where you don’t want it. Black or brown leather die should work well in them. Then the mahogany stain over everything since it won’t affect the black or brown.

 

[Wifesbain]

You've already cleaned up the stem? Lets see some pictures then!

How do you plan on removing the existing colour from the bowl?

I’m curious myself as I have a similar one in my future. Do you think a stiff sanding sponge (flexible enough to curve, but not get into the grooves) would skim the top surface well enough? If he goes black or brown in the grooves, removing whatever is left there shouldn’t matter as much. Provided there isn’t any varnish, shellac etc. to block absorption.

 

[ssjones]

No, the stain is incredibly viscous, it will run everywhere, unless you have hands of stone and incredible patience. The look like fine point q-tips, Hobby-Lobby sells them.

Something like this:

 

[JPremo]

No, the stain is incredibly viscous, it will run everywhere

Yeah I had a few accidents last night, I will be removing the staining liquid from the bottles by dropper from now on! Luckily everything it got on was easily cleaned up with an alcohol rag, except my hands

I might have to take a look at those because using a folded pipe cleaner wasn't the easiest for working in the tight spots, thanks for all the advice in here too guys.

@mikethompson
I used 220 grit paper and a steel brush for the initial sanding after I cleaned it. Now that I think about it I wonder if I should've skipped the scrubbing and gone straight for sanding? Ah well, learning as I go.

Here's the P2 for everyone!

 

[JPremo]

Album preview I forgot to put in the post above

 

[mikethompson]

With pipe restorations, it is all about learning as you go. That's why you start out with cheap beater pipes and not vintage Dunhills!

 

[JPremo]

Alright guys I think she's ready for show and tell, it's not exactly what I wanted but for my first attempt I'm happy with it for now.

Album

I have to work on my buffing/waxing because my first attempt at a finishing wax resulted in my buffing wheel tearing off tiny bits of fuzzy material into the cracks of the pipe, kinda a pain in the ass to clean it again after I waxed but live and learn I suppose
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