Can I take the P-LIP bit off of a Peterson System Standard Heritage (303) (P-Lip) (9mm) and use it on a Peterson Army Filter Sandblasted (05) (Fishtail) (9mm)? Are these interchangeable?
Peterson bit swap?
- Thread starter ParkitoATL
- Start date
Typically, stem is cut to a pipe. Even moulded stem might not fit properly. On the other hand, army mounts have a better chance as long as stem end diameter matches. Now, I have seen few people referring to a stem as a bit. It's a stem. On one end, it has button, and other end it has a tenon. I know you can call anything you want to call it, but you wouldn't call your mouth a rectum. Would you?
Yes, stem, the bit is the rubber thingee you put on there for clenching.
Pipe stems aren't like auto parts. You can't identify the make and model and get a replacement. It might work, by chance, but mostly, as mentioned in a previous post, the stem is cut to that one particular pipe.
To mix and match, you can just try it out, but don't force it or you might break it, and if it doesn't line up very well, understand it isn't supposed to.
If it is very important to you, you can always get a pipe repairman to make a stem to your specifications, cut to size and style.
To mix and match, you can just try it out, but don't force it or you might break it, and if it doesn't line up very well, understand it isn't supposed to.
If it is very important to you, you can always get a pipe repairman to make a stem to your specifications, cut to size and style.
You’d be surprised how many you can swap.
Just don’t plan on it.
Just don’t plan on it.
Those are both army mounts, Peterson cuts all there army mount and spigot mortis and tenons to roughly a 2 degree taper, so technically they are interchangeable. But that doesn't mean they will seat to the same depth. if one is smaller it could seat to deep and block the draught hole.
Just out of curiosity, what are you hoping to accomplish by swapping the stems?
Just out of curiosity, what are you hoping to accomplish by swapping the stems?
I agree on this advice. You don't want to widen the opening preventing you from using the original stem anymore. I have a Pete second XL339S with saddle stem but my Savinelli system stem fits it as well should I choose to want a filtered smoke but I don't seat it as deeply. It also fits my Pete second Erica 303 bent apple. My Savinelli system 604KS stem also fits my Barontini Hungarian and my Pete Irish Army 68 if I want to smoke with a 6mm filter but again --- it must be seated gently. Its always a risk but they are your pipes.
Try it on once and see if it works; otherwise have a new additional stem made. Also hold the pipe while smoking in case bowl drops off the stem which can happen. Stems are fitted to the one pipe only and are not supposed to be universal but some do appear to fit other pipes.
All of the above is probably not generally advisable though.
There’s a famous photo of Tolkien gingerly holding a pipe with a noticeable gap between the shank and the face of the stem. I’ve always wondered if it was a mismatched stem because the original got bitten through or damaged, or perhaps the pipe’s mortise was soggy and swollen so that it wouldn’t reassemble properly but he wanted to smoke right away and just shoved the stem in as far as it would go and lit it up anyway. Both seem like possibilities.
Anyway, assuming the tenon / mortise fitment allows for swapping, isn’t there an internal gradation in the draft way of the system pipe stem that makes up part of the “system” for dry smoking? Not that it couldn’t be done but wouldn’t that somewhat defeat the system pipe advantage to remove both the p-lip and the tapered draft way? Sure, you’d still have the reservoir but that’s only 1/3 of the equation, right?
Maybe I’m wrong (I don’t own a system pipe because the p- lip isn’t my gig) but that’s my understanding of the mechanics of it all.
Anyway, assuming the tenon / mortise fitment allows for swapping, isn’t there an internal gradation in the draft way of the system pipe stem that makes up part of the “system” for dry smoking? Not that it couldn’t be done but wouldn’t that somewhat defeat the system pipe advantage to remove both the p-lip and the tapered draft way? Sure, you’d still have the reservoir but that’s only 1/3 of the equation, right?
Maybe I’m wrong (I don’t own a system pipe because the p- lip isn’t my gig) but that’s my understanding of the mechanics of it all.
As for Tolkien: I always assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that he did that for convenience so that he didn't have to wrestle with the stem once it got hot. I do that on some of my pipes so its easier to remove the stem for using a pipecleaner or to replace/unclog the filter. As for the "system" you are probably correct ... on the XL339S - there is a chamber and a saddle stem ... it produces the most moisture of any pipe I have. The saddle stem is loose ... I suspect purposely --- so it can be easily removed and the moisture dumped. (2-3 times per bowl of tobacco!)There’s a famous photo of Tolkien gingerly holding a pipe with a noticeable gap between the shank and the face of the stem. I’ve always wondered if it was a mismatched stem because the original got bitten through or damaged, or perhaps the pipe’s mortise was soggy and swollen so that it wouldn’t reassemble properly but he wanted to smoke right away and just shoved the stem in as far as it would go and lit it up anyway. Both seem like possibilities.
Anyway, assuming the tenon / mortise fitment allows for swapping, isn’t there an internal gradation in the draft way of the system pipe stem that makes up part of the “system” for dry smoking? Not that it couldn’t be done but wouldn’t that somewhat defeat the system pipe advantage to remove both the p-lip and the tapered draft way? Sure, you’d still have the reservoir but that’s only 1/3 of the equation, right?
Maybe I’m wrong (I don’t own a system pipe because the p- lip isn’t my gig) but that’s my understanding of the mechanics of it all.
When I use the savinelli filter stem ... more of the moisture flows back into the bowl and dottle. So 6 of one 1/2 dozen of another. It all depends on how much I want the filtered smoke which way I choose. and of course, what tobacco I am smoking. As I said its probably not a generally recommended or good idea but it can be done if you want to trade off issues.
Probably not, but if it's too small you can wrap paper around the stem until it goes in snug and the stem comes out leaving the paper inside. Smoke it and the paper will stick inside. You can use other stuff but paper works.