After I burn off the oxidation from estates, they've yet to reoxidize.Sir, you're defying the laws of nature and fighting the tides of time. I bid you luck.
After I burn off the oxidation from estates, they've yet to reoxidize.Sir, you're defying the laws of nature and fighting the tides of time. I bid you luck.
Did you just make this up...?In my experience, the briar on the more recent pipes is not as good. This is common though. Simply less good briar around now a days. If you click through some photos, you can usually see inclusions on the outside of most of their pipes. The bowls are pre-carbonized so you can't tell if they go all the way through or if there are other pits on the inside of the bowl. Short term this will only affect the heat of your briar while smoking. Long term it can cause burnouts earlier.
They picked the nicest specimens for the ad (or at least from the angle they were photographed; we can't see the other side). Wouldn't you?I think peterson has improved of late but I do note that the sandblast in the " come on" is far better than any of of the pipes which are available. Advertising "puffery" as is said in the legal world is one thing , and I wanted to buy one, but the pipes on offer don't seem to match.
I suspect those would be used for more expensive lines. These are sub $200 pipes. There's a line of silver banded virgin Supreme sandblasts that's a little more.I'd pull the trigger immediately, but I'll wait for more stock to possibly be added, as none of the blasts in the shape I liked seemed super appealing.
I know Peterson is capable of some great blasts.
Depends on the quality of the vulcanite. The best I have is a 1930s Kaywoodie. It hasn't oxidized in the decade after I cleaned it up. I keep it out of any light. Others will slowly but surely oxidize over time, even if kept in a bag. The oxidation is not always evident from just a glance, but I'm pretty fastidious as I examine them under a bright light. I'm now wondering if oxidation will show better under a UV lamp. I'm getting rid of some super high grades because their stems are turning green and I don't care enough to clean them up. I've a JT Cooke replacement stem that I thought was acrylic because it didn't smell like sulphur after hard rubbing with my thumb. Turns out I was wrong and it started turning green in my glass encased China hutch. I assume JT was using the best low sulphur vulcanite money could buy.After I burn off the oxidation from estates, they've yet to reoxidize.
Or maybe the flame changes the chemical make up some how. I don't even oil or wax them.They picked the nicest specimens for the ad (or at least from the angle they were photographed; we can't see the other side). Wouldn't you?
I suspect those would be used for more expensive lines. These are sub $200 pipes. There's a line of silver banded virgin Supreme sandblasts that's a little more.
Depends on the quality of the vulcanite. The best I have is a 1930s Kaywoodie. It hasn't oxidized in the decade after I cleaned it up. I keep it out of any light. Others will slowly but surely oxidize over time, even if kept in a bag. The oxidation is not always evident from just a glance, but I'm pretty fastidious as I examine them under a bright light. I'm now wondering if oxidation will show better under a UV lamp. I'm getting rid of some super high grades because their stems are turning green and I don't care enough to clean them up. I've a JT Cooke replacement stem that I thought was acrylic because it didn't smell like sulphur after hard rubbing with my thumb. Turns out I was wrong and it started turning green in my glass encased China hutch. I assume JT was using the best low sulphur vulcanite money could buy.
My position is that if you can't see it, you're not looking hard enough.
Yes, they look good in your photos. You think a heat gun will work as well as a lighter flame?Or maybe the flame changes the chemical make up some how. I don't even oil or wax them.
Not the same mechanism at work. Butane flame leaves a black, sooty, sticky residue. I don't know if it actually combines with the vulcanite or not. Vulcanite is manufactured using rubber, heat, sulfur and possibly other elements.Yes, they look good in your photos. You think a heat gun will work as well as a lighter flame?
Indeed, i understand that they picked the best blast for the ad. However, the actual pipes don't really even look blasted, more like spackled. And, yes, they are a sub $200 pipe but , really, for around the same money you could get an actual handmade sandblasted pipe such as a Radice silk cut or some other makers. Comes down to personal preference. I like many peterson pipes and love, as we all do, the vendor but there is a disconnect between the enticement and the product in my view in this instance.They picked the nicest specimens for the ad (or at least from the angle they were photographed; we can't see the other side). Wouldn't you?
I suspect those would be used for more expensive lines. These are sub $200 pipes. There's a line of silver banded virgin Supreme sandblasts that's a little more.
Depends on the quality of the vulcanite. The best I have is a 1930s Kaywoodie. It hasn't oxidized in the decade after I cleaned it up. I keep it out of any light. Others will slowly but surely oxidize over time, even if kept in a bag. The oxidation is not always evident from just a glance, but I'm pretty fastidious as I examine them under a bright light. I'm now wondering if oxidation will show better under a UV lamp. I'm getting rid of some super high grades because their stems are turning green and I don't care enough to clean them up. I've a JT Cooke replacement stem that I thought was acrylic because it didn't smell like sulphur after hard rubbing with my thumb. Turns out I was wrong and it started turning green in my glass encased China hutch. I assume JT was using the best low sulphur vulcanite money could buy.
My position is that if you can't see it, you're not looking hard enough.
Hello George,Truly, literally raw briar---zero finish of any kind applied (Castello's "Vergin" is a good example)---will definitely get dirty-gray looking from smoking and handling.
It doesn't take much of a top coat to prevent that, however. A proper application of carnauba is enough. A flash application of a homogeneous mixture of the proper insect secretions dissolved in alcohol will also do it.
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He's referring to shellac... a very light cut is used by many pipemakers to seal the briar.Hello George,
Mighty nice bug picture
My Castello Vergin's refuse to be treated with carnauba wax since it changes their appearance.
A treated Vergin briar is imho no longer a virgin briar. I occasionally clean them with food grade alcohol.
Makes them look pristine and very, very virgin.
How is that exactly with the bug secretion ?
You are probably joking and I'm naive.
or more likely the guy that rounds out that one part of that shape all day. Could be worse he could work in phone sales.Man, can you imagine being that guy who has to make one shape, all day, day in and day out for decades.
common knowledge.Did you just make this up...?
Ah - thanks for elaborating...common knowledge.
Do it.I'm tempted to get a 80S.... Now talk me out of it.
Same as Savinelli etcHas Peterson always just changed the colors of something and then called it a new "line"? just curious. Nothing wrong with that, but I am just feeling out the Peterson "thing."