Just tried it on the glass top range. Got it so hot I could smell the inside of the pipe burning, but no luck.
Just got out a hammer and I think I'll get just as much satisfaction turning this damned thing to sawdust, as repairing it.
Overclocked Kaywoodie.
- Thread starter Revnatorade C.P.G.
- Start date
Just got out a hammer and I think I'll get just as much satisfaction turning this damned thing to sawdust, as repairing it.
Damn!! Maybe I've just been lucky- the 6-8 that I've done turned fairly easily with this method. Scratching my head on this one............
Worth a try. I always thought that the stinger was just metal on vulcanite. There seems to be some sort of glue on the insert though, and its alway softened up with the heat method for me.
A rebornpipes blog shows Steve using the heat method (candle) to unscrew a stinger. Seems to be easy. But I've gotten mine hotter than a firecracker several times, wrapped the stinger in paper towels and used pliers. Nothing.
Rebornpipes - removing Kaywoodie stinger
I didn't want to mess around heating up stuff and moving the stinger or insert, so I applied some colorless fingernail polish on the face of the insert to thicken it up to stop the overclocking. It worked like a charm. I chose fingernail polish because it can be easily removed.
Last edited:
Seems like it must have been.
Well, this is going to sound crazy...
I froze the stem, took it out, applied cloth and pliers. Nothing.
Heated with the Bic until it felt unsafe to continue
. Still nothing.Screwed the stem back in. It's now perfect. 45 minutes later - still perfect.
I've had strange things like this happen before from freezing/heating vulcanite/metal connections, but never an accidental perfect result. Luckily my other Kaywoodies are all set correctly