Need Advice On Two KBB Repairs

[mayfair70]

Hey all,
Firstly, I just got this "KBB Filter Brush Yellow-Bole Imported Briar" pipe in the mail today and went to clean it.

I pulled the stem from the fitment. OOPS. Then I carefully removed the fitment from the shank and cleaned everything.

I will clean everything again and better before putting it back together. The pushbit now moves firmly but easily into and from the shank. My question is... The metal bit SEEMS like it would hold to the plastic mouthpiece well enough, but I want to make sure it doesn't come out again...ever. Could I use wood/carpenter's glue? What would you folks recommend? Also, I think it is a Dublin shape but am not 100% sure. I also wonder if anyone has a date range for it.
Secondly, I am currently trying to remove the lacquer from this early 30's KBB by soaking it in alcohol. It is the top one.

Are there better ways to do it? Also, a problem is the stem has a ceramic filter stuck in it pretty good.

I have no idea really how to get it out aside from lubricating it then using a small threaded screw to "grab" it then ease it out. Any suggestions are welcome. Again, I'm not sure what the shape is and would love to know.
You Gentlemen and Ladies are most knowledgeable in this area, and I trust I will get sound advice second to none. Thank You.

 

[jdhayes]

The second pipe might not have a filter stuck in it. That could actually be a snapped off stinger. And I'm not sure wood glue would bond the metal to the stem on the first one.

 

[gloucesterman]

CA glue would be a better choice. It's like crazy glue but doesn't set up quite as quickly. You can get a small bottle on Ebay. It's used for a wide variety of stem repairs.

Inserting a screw can actually cause whatever is in there to expand increasing the friction bond and making it even harder to get out. I would try to loosen the bond with alcohol (high proof) before trying to remove it. Another trick that sometimes works is to put the bit into the freezer. The different materials contract at different rates and that sometimes helps break it loose.

 

[mayfair70]

@jdhayes - Those were my thoughts exactly on the glue. I didn't know what is normally used. I thought the second one was a stinger as well, but after getting a couple small bits out, I realized it was some sort of ceramic material or hardened/petrified wood. It crumbles and has the consistency of ceramic or stone. Definitely not plastic or metal.
@gloucesterman - Thanks. That takes care of the first pipe problem. If the alcohol soak doesn't do the trick on the second, I'll try the freezer method. Most appreciated.

 

[jeepnewbie]

Go with gorilla glue, ruff the metal up barely with a bit of 600 sand paper. Then use a bit of water on it and inside the stem. Put just a wee bit on the metal closer to the shank side then push it in. Let it set for the day. The gorilla glue expands slightly and creates a super strong bond, and isn't as brittle as regular super glue. I've used it in my pipes for repairs on shank fixes.

 

[uncleblackie]

On the subject of glue, CA glue is cyanoacrylate. It's not a brand. All super glue is CA glue, including "Krazy Glue". Just wanted to clear that up. There are different varieties; gel, liquid, etc. I would use a small amount of the gel variety, which will give you a little bit of working time. I use the Tite Bond brand with excellent results.
I would advise against Gorilla Glue for this unless you're really familiar with it, as is expands quite a bit when drying and it can be a bugger to clean up.

 

[mayfair70]

Thanks. To be on the safe side, I'll use a CA gel, loctite, or tite bond for the pushbit.
I found I can use acetone and 0000 steel wool to remove the lacquer on my early thirties KBB (thanks reborn pipes !!). I just want to get to the original wood, knowing they used lacquer to cover the most horrible defects. I may luck out, I probably won't. I'll post these to the KBB thread once my restorations are complete.
I'll call the first shape a Dublin, unless someone can point out a shape chart, or recollection, which is more accurate than mine.
I'll call the second shape an Apple, again, until I find a more accurate source.
I can find no history on the "filter brush" KBB. Does anyone know a resource on this? The usual online resources appear to be silent on this particular product, except to show pics of the very pipe I bought in many cases. I really thought there would be more input here. :crying:

 

[uncleblackie]

The first pipe could certainly be called a Dublin shape. Same with the Apple. You got it.
I have no information about the filter brush.
Perhaps a new thread with "Filter Brush KBB" in the title will attract someone with the knowledge.
P.S. Your last post reminded me, I meant LocTite brand, not Tite Bond. I use the LocTite Gel Control Super Glue.

 

[beefeater33]

Hey Mayfair-

Nice pipes!

The first pipe is definitely a Dublin shape, the second, I would call an apple too.

The filter brush was a rather uncommon model, not rare, but you don't see them much. It actually had a brush in the stem when it was new, but most you see now the brush is long gone.........

Here's an old Worthpoint listing that shows one with the brush intact. Also some good info on the model, but I'm not sure how accurate it is.....

http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/unsmoked-kbb-yello-bole-filter-brush-dublin-clean
If that is a ceramic filter in the stem I would just keep (carefully) picking at it with a paper-clip or something and try to break it up until it comes out.
No help with the glue... seems that the CA would be the way to go.
I think I've read that Acetone (nail polish remover) will take off the finish, but I'm not certain.
Since these are old pipes, the briar should be good quality. If there is any fills they should be apparent through the lacquer finish.
Nice score on those, Old KBB's are usually excellent smokers. Enjoy! ::

 

[beefeater33]

Here's more info, its in Polish, but if you use google it translates really well:

http://www.fajka.net.pl/poradniki/wlasnorecznie/giveaway-2-kbb-yello-bole-filter-brush/

 

[mayfair70]

Thanks gentlemen !
It seems some knowledge from this site has sunk in, at least I got the shapes right.
I tried to do my repair homework before attempting anything on my own and I've seen outstanding work being done by members here. I work under the "measure twice, cut once" mantra. I am now confident I'm on the right track.
I'm very pleased with my KBB acquisitions and didn't see any fills or flaws under the thick lacquer, so I may have a gem there in the apple shape. The coating on the filterbrush is thin enough to remove easily and I should have no problems getting it where I want it. I really like the smaller size and craftsmanship of these older pipes and can't wait to get these in smoke-able condition. I should be done and post pics in the next week or so.
Thanks again ! :worship:
::

 

[mayfair70]

@scarface - I totally get where you are coming from. I am an antique collector and the last thing I ever want to see is someone removing the original patina from a piece. But, I also want to see the natural grain of the wood and some dipshit covered it in red stain and lacquer 80 some years ago and it was barely detectable. We covered this in a thread not too long ago and if I remember right, you and I agreed for the most part. The deed is done. The lacquer has been removed and believe me, it is an improvement. You decide for yourself when you see the pics. Besides, it is mine now and its history is my history. Out of all the pipes I own, I have only altered the finish of three. A Dr. Grabow Golden Duke, which burned so hot I could barely hold it. You don't want to know the abuse I have put that mother through. Let's just say I sanded it within an inch of its life and removed a pea sized fill. It is the redheaded stepchild of my collection. It smokes great now, and is ugly as hell. The other two are both Yello-Boles I recently acquired which will look better when I am done. In my opinion, the best restoration is where no one will be able to tell they have been altered. I hope you will see that I have brought them to life, not "killed" them. They won't look brand new or shiny; they won't have the nomenclature buffed down to silhouettes; And most importantly, I will enjoy them. If I wanted lacquered up pipes with no character, I'd buy Brylon. I get these because the wood is beautiful and the quality is rare nowadays. Removing the lacquer revealed some AMAZING birdseye. Feel free to tell me what a mistake I made AFTER you see the pics. Nighty Night. :puffpipe:

 

[stvalentine]

Glueing the tenon back into the stem is quite difficult. If you coat the surface of stem or tenon with glue (whatever kind of) you will most likely "push" the glue into the stem when pushing the tenon back. This might block the airway. If the stem-tenon-shank-connection is not likely to fall apart by it´s own I would keep it like that.

 

[mayfair70]

@stvalentine - I was already thinking about that problem. Could I minimize that occurrence by a very thin application of glue to the sides of the tenon and again a thin application to the 1st third inside the stem? It would seem the glue would not make it to the inner face where the draft hole is once it is flush. Even if some does get pushed to the face where the tenon meets the stem/drafthole there would not be enough to spread and cover the hole. Does that sound right? I've never done this with a tobacco pipe, but I used to use glue on model cars plenty when growing up. Am I using sound logic? What do you think?

 

[johnnyiii]

As a healthier alternative you could use wax on the fitment metal piece. It wont stick perminant like glue but would hold real well while still letting you remove it with a firm pull later. If you didn't like it it would be no biggie to reverse the process and start over. Two piece stem tennons are held together with supper CA glue though if memory serves. I just hate the thought of the chemicals.
The stuck stinger. I would first try securing the stem in a vice or clamp with out putting teath marks in the stemand using a drill bit or metal screw just wide enough to bite in the metal carefully drill in to the metal for the bit to bite. One inserted leave the bit in the stem, unsecure the stem, vicegrib the back end of the bit and try to pull and wiggle the bit back out. Hopfully pulling the broken stinger with it. If you see the tennon on the bit stretching while you drill stop. When drilling set your drill to its lowest speed and drill slow. You also might find that you just shave the metal doing this, and if so that would also help. A hair dryer on high heat might also help to loosen the stinger as well.
If they used lacquer and the chemicals that come with that, maybe it would be ok to use a little lacquer thinner on a rag or buffing wheel?? I would start with just buffing with brown trip first though. I dislike the idea of any chemicals on something I'm putting lighter heat to prior to :puffpipe: Keep in mind that if that is not a natural finish underneath any chemical will likely work against the stain as well.
NOTE: I am a growing pipe repairer, but more so professional wood worker. I know what I know from here, you tube, plus trial and error. I do not see the icon for the gentleman member that is in the army uniform. Getting his advice would be a good step as well.

 

[johnnyiii]

As far as the glue seeping into the draft hole. As long as it is not a lot it should come out with a little poking with a metal object once it is dry. Seeing the large hole in the metal piece you could maybe use the back side of a framing nail poking it like a pipe cleaner. Smaller draft holes I would cut the point off a nail and poke with that. Either way the dangling glue inside shoulllld pop off with a little effort once dry. If you try this while wet you will just spread it everywhere and make a mess.