I have a 70 year old Dunhill and the mouthpiece is so sensitive and soft. It very quickly oxidizes and scuffs (after nearly every smoke) and the Dunhill brand polish with a polish cloth does no good. I’m going go to very fine paper today but I’m very trepidatious about doing this. Is it normal for these mouthpieces to be so sensitive? None of my other estate pipes with vulcanite will scuff and oxidize quickly if at all, even very old ones.
Maintaining an Old Dunhill Mouthpiece
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Some of that old vulcanite oxidizes by just looking at it. For pipes I don't use often, I wrap them in saran-wrap for storage. That seems to help, and keep them out of any sunlight.
Yes, it's normal for vulcanite stems to oxidize, especially when kept in the light. It's scuffing and oxidizing quickly because the oxidation has not been completely removed.
Briarville sells a product called No Oxy Oil. It's a mineral oil base with some SPF protection. It's worked well for me.
The polish will put on shine. It'll even shine oxidized vulcanite. But it's not the best means of removing oxidation. And it doesn't stop oxidation. That last part requires keeping the pipe out of light.
Something's wrong here. The stem material Dunhill used was top-drawer stuff. No inclusions or voids, no graininess, and slow to oxidize. I've never known a exception.
Gonna guess what's on your pipe is a replacement made from a low quality molded blank. (Probably Greek by the sound of it)
A close-up pic of the of the button, both an oblique view and end-on so the slot can be seen, should settle the question.
Toothpaste can put a mirror shine on a stem, but it won't remove oxidation. I'm guessing that's all the stem polish is for as well.
That seems like a wild guess to me but I admit I’m far from an expert and I’ve only owned one other Dunhill, and that one was brand new (and didn’t oxidize at all). This stem was repaired, leaving aside for a second whether it’s original. The way the tenon was repaired tells me the restorer went out of his way to save the mouthpiece. Comparing it to others, like the 50s poker on reborn pipes, it looks similar to me, though it’s been beat up and the button has lost some of its shape. I could put up a picture and open that can of worms if there is general agreement that what you’re saying is true, 1. Dunhills aren’t known to oxidize, very old specimens not excepted; 2. a little oxidation won’t lead to a lot; 3. and an old mouthpiece shouldn’t be particularly soft and shouldn’t scuff easily where it does oxidize.
If that’s what the experts say, maybe I will put something up. ETA: on second thought, have at it:
DUNHILL Bruyere 33 - Very Keen on Pipes
England, 1935-52 This Dunhill pipe came to us with the noticeably chewed mouthpiece and very faint nomenclature, and of course it was hardly possible to make it clearer, the challenge was to save at least a few more or less … Continued
vkpipes.com
*this pipe by my research must be a ‘51 or ‘52.That seems like a wild guess to me but I admit I’m far from an expert and I’ve only owned one other Dunhill, and that one was brand new (and didn’t oxidize at all). This stem was repaired, leaving aside for a second whether it’s original. The way the tenon was repaired tells me the restorer went out of his way to save the mouthpiece. Comparing it to others, like the 50s poker on reborn pipes, it looks similar to me, though it’s been beat up and the button has lost some of its shape. I could put up a picture and open that can of worms if there is general agreement that what you’re saying is true, 1. Dunhills aren’t known to oxidize, very old specimens not excepted; 2. a little oxidation won’t lead to a lot; 3. and an old mouthpiece shouldn’t be particularly soft and shouldn’t scuff easily where it does oxidize.
If that’s what the experts say, maybe I will put something up. ETA: on second thought, have at it:
DUNHILL Bruyere 33 - Very Keen on Pipes
England, 1935-52 This Dunhill pipe came to us with the noticeably chewed mouthpiece and very faint nomenclature, and of course it was hardly possible to make it clearer, the challenge was to save at least a few more or less … Continued
Too much unusual stuff going on with that pipe to be able to track much of anything. It's been hammered.
The reverse tenon business is truly bizarre.
Definitely not a case of a quickie rep stem made from a low quality blank in any event.
In short, your guess is as good as mine why the "insta green" thing is happening. Charatan? You bet. lol Dunhill? It's a first (that I know of).
The reverse tenon business is truly bizarre.
Definitely not a case of a quickie rep stem made from a low quality blank in any event.
In short, your guess is as good as mine why the "insta green" thing is happening. Charatan? You bet. lol Dunhill? It's a first (that I know of).
I’m at peace with it. It could be a replacement. It’s definitely unusual the way he did it. It wasn’t expensive. They are in a war zone (Ukraine). I couldn’t understand why he set it up that way. He had a reason that sort of escaped me.
I see Dunhill estate pipes on auction all time with completely oxidized mouthpieces. I assume that if you clean them up there’s a danger of missing a spot, maybe on the inside or a tiny bit somewhere else. The thesis was that this leads to more reappearing. What’s wrong with this analysis? I’m in Japan. On Yahoo auction here, people list old Dunhills with oxidation constantly. I think I’ve misunderstood your comment then.
Sounds like a tough nut to crack. I don't what to say, but if George doesn't know you could be in a pickle.
It's not a pickle. It's OK. This pipe was very beat up but it's still lovable. I'm not quite understanding the point about oxidation exactly though. I definitely see tons of oxidized Dunhills. Maybe this is a replacement if the point is that it's not tough enough. That could be. I can live with it. The pipe itself is a very beat up old thing. I'm satisfied with the pipe itself; it could be a replacement stem. It's well done aesthetically if so, though old.
All vulcanite will oxidize if exposed to the right environment, UV light and water being the most important players.
How FAST it happens is an indicator of quality. The good stuff "greens" more slowly than the bad stuff.
Having seen "tons of oxidized Dunhills" in the wild isn't what you were reporting in your first post. There, you said "after nearly every smoke". Also, that the rubber was "sensitive and soft".
That behavior and texture is not normal or typical at all. This is the first time I've heard of it, in fact.
Right. I see. I should clarify. I’ve smoked this pipe three or four times. It does seem sensitive. I’ve made the mistake of leaving it out in a sun-lit room perhaps. It does seem seem like it’s scuffed after each smoke. Is that because it’s a cheaper replacement or because there’s already oxidation on it? No way to know or likely a replacement? Maybe hard to say or easy to say? I don’t know. I’m putting all my pipes away. I’ve realized how dumb I was to have them out. I don’t have big windows but there is light and I do clench (saliva). That pipe came from a war zone. I actually do like that retailer. I can’t say they’re as reputable as reborn but I think they try and they’ve been around the block. It wouldn’t shock me if this was a replacement though. What’s annoying me now is that there’s a scuff and I’ve tried buffing it with various grit and I can’t seem to get it off and I don’t want to damage it. It doesn’t feel soft but I said “soft” because it gets scuff marks.
I suppose if the mouthpiece were really soft, it would be easier to buff out. I've made chatter, I guess because I let it get oxidized and then clenched it for an hour? Now, I'm really having a heck of a time buffing it. I can only buff it by hand. I have a lot of different grades of paper. I spent a lot of time trying and I still couldn't get this ring of a tooth mark out. I went from rough all the way up to fine grit. I confess I don't know a lot about this beyond what I watch on youtube and the reborn site.