Kaywoodie i.d. help

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fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
I have this Kaywoodie sitting on my bench and I want to restore it. The Stamping says KAYWOODIE. Underneath that "Standard" is in scriptive. On the other side the number 42. The clover is on top of the stem. It has no other markings and the stinger has been cut off. I'm trying to figure out the year of this one because the stem is loose. I'm reading that depending on the year the pipe was made is what dictates the method I should use to fix it. I think user Sablebrush posted a very helpful thread on these two methods. I think this is a nice pipe and it's my first Kaywoodie. I don't want to destroy it by doing something stupid. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


 

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
Here's the link to the pic in case my first try didn't work
http://rs1381.pbsrc.com/albums/ah202/petekestatepipes/0401150209_zpsfd1bbddf.jpg~320x480?t=1427783759

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
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11,388
Maryland
postimg.cc
It could be from the 50's to the 70's, depending on the stinger setup. Without that, it's hard to say. It looks like a good candidate for restoration.
Have you checked out this thread:

http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/kaywoodie-dating




 

gambit88

Can't Leave
Jan 25, 2015
341
2
Your kaywoodie is a medium apple shape made from 1927-72. They started making the standards in 1950. The stamp on the top of the stem is normally for real early kaywoodies but some were stamped on top up through the 60s. That being said I'd guess your pipe is pre 1970 but can't guess any closer then that.

 

buroak

Lifer
Jul 29, 2014
1,867
14
Given the position of the clover logo, I would estimate your Kaywoodie is from the early 1950s. A picture of what remains of the stinger could provide more help with dating.

 

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
I'll definetly check more into the websites on that thread. That's great info. I'll also put up some pics of my stinger nub. That's all that's left of it. I'm trying to figure out if I should just heat up the tenon part (if you could call it that) or if I should screw it into the shank and heat up the whole thing to melt the adhesive.

 

ssjones

Moderator
Staff member
May 11, 2011
18,464
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Maryland
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Just warm the tenon with a soft flame, the glue will give up easily. Unscrew it and add a drop or two of wood glue. (or friction fit will probably be fine.)

 

fluffie666

Can't Leave
Apr 4, 2014
497
5
Thank you everyone for your input. If i remember correctly, heating up the tenon is fine for anything made after 1942?
Here's some mor bad uploads from my inferior tablet...
http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/petekestatepipes/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0402150245_zps1cbb8e87.jpg.html?filters[user]=142748386&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2
http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/petekestatepipes/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0402150246_zpsc0ae16a7.jpg.html?filters[user]=142748386&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1
http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/petekestatepipes/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0402150246_zpsc0ae16a7.jpg.html?filters[user]=142748386&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1
Edit: if you copy and past the IMG link from Photobucket directly onto your thread response, the picture will be displayed.





I believe with the logo on top, as mentioned, the pipe would be from the 60's to the early 70's.

 
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