Kaywoodie Flame Grain 99B Restored
- Thread starter ssjones
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ssjones:
Your resurrection of this Kaywoodie is masterful, and I am glad that it is once again serving its intended purpose. May it be a faithful friend to you throughout the years.
Your resurrection of this Kaywoodie is masterful, and I am glad that it is once again serving its intended purpose. May it be a faithful friend to you throughout the years.
Thanks guys. The pipe has been an exceptional smoker. Reorienting the shank insert was challenging, but the outcome worthy of the effort.
I have this same exact pipe. My insert too is offset but I read somewhere that kaywoodies came slightly off kilter with the right corner of the bit around the 2 o'clock position versus the three. This was because so many of them "over tightened" when hot, and the off center position was in preparation of that.
Great restore! I myself am just getting into restoration of old pipes and I have picked up at least 20 pipes to work on.
Being new to the craft I have questions. Looking at this pipe I noticed the little metal piece that connecting the stem to the stummel (Wood?). What is this piece called? Of the 20 + pipes I am learning to restore, at least ten have these metal connecting pieces. One question I have is this , what are they made of? Is it aluminum, nickle... I ask also because I recently started cleaning a stem that has this attached metal piece. I soaked the stem in bleach to get rid of oxidation, but the plating, or coating on this metal piece wore off and I am wondering how to restore the luster?
Sorry to ask so many questions, but I am super pumped about trying my hand at restoration.
Being new to the craft I have questions. Looking at this pipe I noticed the little metal piece that connecting the stem to the stummel (Wood?). What is this piece called? Of the 20 + pipes I am learning to restore, at least ten have these metal connecting pieces. One question I have is this , what are they made of? Is it aluminum, nickle... I ask also because I recently started cleaning a stem that has this attached metal piece. I soaked the stem in bleach to get rid of oxidation, but the plating, or coating on this metal piece wore off and I am wondering how to restore the luster?
Sorry to ask so many questions, but I am super pumped about trying my hand at restoration.
@finnian3: see this image for various pipe parts.
The "Tenon" #6 in the picture above has a screw-in fitment on most Kaywoodie pipes. #5 is the Shank mortise and on Kaywoodies, it is a aluminum insert that screws into the shank and received the threaded stem. Generally speaking, most of this metal work was aluminum or perhaps pot metal.
The end of the threaded piece,typically with a ball, is known as the "stinger" in pipe terminology.
You can read about many types of pipe restorations at the Reborn Pipes blog, the link shown in my first post. I, and several other restorers post our work at that site, which is owned by Steve Laug. He also has a blog entry there on the different kind of "stingers" used by various pipe makers. Stingers were meant to stop condensation from coming back thru the pipe stem. In those days, makers were always looking for a gimmick to provide a "dry smoke". Kaywoodie stingers were patented with the "Drinkless" name.
The "Tenon" #6 in the picture above has a screw-in fitment on most Kaywoodie pipes. #5 is the Shank mortise and on Kaywoodies, it is a aluminum insert that screws into the shank and received the threaded stem. Generally speaking, most of this metal work was aluminum or perhaps pot metal.
The end of the threaded piece,typically with a ball, is known as the "stinger" in pipe terminology.
You can read about many types of pipe restorations at the Reborn Pipes blog, the link shown in my first post. I, and several other restorers post our work at that site, which is owned by Steve Laug. He also has a blog entry there on the different kind of "stingers" used by various pipe makers. Stingers were meant to stop condensation from coming back thru the pipe stem. In those days, makers were always looking for a gimmick to provide a "dry smoke". Kaywoodie stingers were patented with the "Drinkless" name.
Some Super Fine Steel Wool (0000 Grade) will restore some of your metal shine or some auto metal polish. They do dull quickly.
Nicely done. Restored to better than factory condition.
Was the insert glued into the mortise? I might attempt this on an old KW of mine with the same problem. Same shape too, only its a straight stem White Briar.
Was the insert glued into the mortise? I might attempt this on an old KW of mine with the same problem. Same shape too, only its a straight stem White Briar.
Bill Feuerbach of Kaywoodie/S M Frank gave me a tip that has helped me: both metal parts in the Drinkless system use heat melt adhesive. Hence the reason for the overclocking when overturned when hot. A kitchen stove with the flat glass top does a great job of heating the metal female fitment without hurting the briar. I wait till wifey has just finished cooking something and turn off the heating element. There's enough residual heat in the glass top for a few seconds of contact with the metal ferrule flush against the glass to loosen things up nicely.
hp
les
hp
les
I've used Les/Bill F's stove-top technique for pipes that need to be rotated clockwise to correct.
This one needed to go counter-clockwise, so I loosened the glue with the stove top and then used the extractor to turn it counter-clockwise. In this case, it was a little loose, so I removed it completely, added some wood glue and reinserted to the correct orientation.
This one needed to go counter-clockwise, so I loosened the glue with the stove top and then used the extractor to turn it counter-clockwise. In this case, it was a little loose, so I removed it completely, added some wood glue and reinserted to the correct orientation.
"Some Super fine (00 Grade)"? What is this? Is it sandpaper??? Curious as to products you used? I have at least ten pipes with stingers most which need refinishing. I was actually thinking about buying an electroplate kit in order to restore the stingers.
Thanks for the tip about removing the insert. I don't have a stripped screw remover but I think I can find another tool for the job.
Any thoughts about electroplating metal parts? I think it has a potential to make a nice finish.
Thanks for the tip about removing the insert. I don't have a stripped screw remover but I think I can find another tool for the job.
Any thoughts about electroplating metal parts? I think it has a potential to make a nice finish.
@finnian3: Sorry, I left out "steel wool" (and actually it should be 0000 grade, which is Superfine)
(I edited my comment above to be correct).
(I edited my comment above to be correct).
@finnian3: Sorry, I left out "steel wool" (and actually it should be 0000 grade, which is Superfine)
(I edited my comment above to be correct).
(I edited my comment above to be correct).
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