I Need to Deep Clean My Pipes

[tzinc]

I need to deep clean my pipes. I buy the occasional estate pipe and despite being told they were cleaned they sometimes smelll sour or the bit tastes odd. How can I do a complete deep cleaing of my pipes to remove all orders from all sections of the pipes? Thanks in advance.

 

[kcghost]

You can find any number of threads on pipe cleaning under Pipe Repair and Maintenance. Pick the one that is appropriate for what you want. You can find this under the Main Category of things.

 

[jpmcwjr]

I'd first give it a 30-60 second flush with hot tap water. A few pipe cleaners through the airway. Then twist the stem out, and with Q-tips swab out the mortise. Reassemble, towel out the chamber, load and smoke.

 

[cosmicfolklore]

I'd first give it a 30-60 second flush with hot tap water. A few pipe cleaners through the airway. Then twist the stem out, and with Q-tips swab out the mortise. Reassemble, towel out the chamber, load and smoke.

I do this each night, but you would call this a deep clean?

I was going to respond to this earlier, but there is so much to describe to do when deep cleaning that I thought that someone else may be able to better detail the steps.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Indeed, there are more drastic steps, but I always start with the least complicated- and easiest- method. The removal of odor is one of the strengths of the water flush.

For me, deep cleaning is when I clean out the mortise! Most times I just flush with hot water, and leave to dry. Works for me.

To follow up, the next step I'd take if the above doesn't work is to fill the chamber with wet coffee grounds and let dry. (then do above)

If that doesn't work, go to the salt and alcohol treatment. If that doesn't work, send it to a professional.

 

[cosmicfolklore]

Indeed, there are more drastic steps, but I always start with the least complicated- and easiest- method. The removal of odor is one of the strengths of the water flush.

For me, deep cleaning is when I clean out the mortise! Most times I just flush with hot water, and leave to dry. Works for me.

To follow up, the next step I'd take if the above doesn't work is to fill the chamber with wet coffee grounds and let dry. (then do above)

If that doesn't work, go to the salt and alcohol treatment. If that doesn't work, send it to a professional.

I totally agree and understand. I was just thinking that with an uncleaned estate pipe, you might be able to start off with the big guns.

 

[sablebrush52]

If, by deep clean you mean neutralize a pipe, it's going to take a bit of work. Here's what I do and it's a "no shortcuts no bullshit" approach.

1. Start by paring back all cake until it's barely a veil over the wood - I recommend glass paper wrapped around a piece of shaped doweling, or failing that a Pilot marking pen, to do the final sanding.

2. Clean out the shank airway - this may involve using a drill bit or a reamer to clear out any cake building in the airway. Use shank brushes to start, with Everclear or the equivalent alcohol and scrub, rinsing out the brushes repeatedly, to loosen, soften and remove most of the the surface deposits, then move on to scrubbing with tapered bristle brushes, however many it takes, until you're seeing the barest bit of brown on the bristle brush. Clean out the mortise, every bit of it, using dental tools if necessary to get deposits out of the corners. You want to see clean wood in the airway and the mortise. Scrub out the mortise walls thoroughly, using doubled over wads of tapered bristle cleaners that fit snuggly against the walls of the mortise and keep scrubbing until nothing is left to come off into the wad.

3. take a pipe cleaner, dipped in alcohol and insert it through the stem and leave it there for an hour. Then use it to scrub the interior of the stem. Repeat. You may need to repeat many times before the stem is actually clean inside. Don't forget to carefully scrub out the slot as well. it takes time and a good soak to loosen up deposits in the stem.

4. S/A treatment for the chamber. Don't be surprised if you need to do this more than once. You can substitute cotton balls for the salt.

5. Clean out of the airway. You thought you already did this? No, you only did the first step. Lighten moisten a fluffie pipe cleaner, insert it in the shank airway and hang the pipe, stem down, and forget about it for a few hours, then scrub to remove further deposits and rancid oils. Do this a few times. Next, lightly moisten a fluffie, insert it in the shank airway, and hang the pipe shank down and forget about it until the fluffie has completely dried out, pulling out rancid oils from the briar. Repeat this until you're barely getting any staining. Do the same thing to the mortise using barely dampened fluffie wads and let dry out. Usually takes 3 to 4 days of soaking and draining tobacco oils.

Or, you can avoid some of this by performing a boiling alcohol retort flush.

If you actually go though all of these steps thoroughly you will have deep cleaned years, possibly decades of embedded crap from the pipes' internals and will have a neutral pipe with no ghosts.

Have fun!

 

[jpmcwjr]

I totally agree and understand. I was just thinking that with an uncleaned estate pipe, you might be able to start off with the big guns.

Yes, and some do. Jesse writes a definitive post above on a very deep cleaning.

But the o.p. said they had be cleaned before purchase, and odor and sourness was the problem. For this I say: least harsh- and easiest- first, then more drastic if needed.

 

[OzPiper]

I buy the occasional estate pipe and despite being told they were cleaned they sometimes smelll sour or the bit tastes odd.

DO NOT believe vendors telling you their pipes are cleaned and ready to smoke ! They rarely are.

If a pipe smells or tastes sour, it's almost always a problem with filthy airways - shank, mortise and stem.

Do what Jesse (@sablebrush52) suggests in his excellent reply above.

One other possible problem - a badly oxidised stem (both outside, and occasionally internally. Lots of previous threads on how to deoxidise stems.

Good luck.

 

[Chasing Embers]

 

[cigrmaster]

I use shank brushes, plus BJ Long bristle and fluff tapered pipe cleaners and lots of Everclear. My pipes are rarely ever very dirty as I clean the piss out of them after every smoke. Once a year or two I tell my pipe cleaners it is that day. My pipe cleaners are my 26 and 31 year old sons. I taught them at a very early age how to properly clean a pipe to my satisfaction. I always either give them cash or pay for a big sushi dinner. I always double check their work and they always do a great job. They almost always pick the sushi dinner.

 

[jcinpa]

For a truly sour or funky pipe, hot water is not likely to cut it. Residues are oily and water and oil don't mix. I'm not arguing that it does not work on your own pipes, I'm not disputing that. But it's likely to be a waste of time on truly nasty pipes.

The pipe cleaner with alcohol in the stem and cotton balls with high-proof alcohol in the bowl is the way to go on truly nasty pipes. Just don't get it on the finish. I set my stummels in a small bowl of rice or lentils so I can make it sit level, and I use a small perfumers funnel to get the alcohol in the pipe bowl so I don't get it on the finish. Let sit overnight.

I've heard of estate pipes to gunked up it needs more than one treatment, but I've never had one that bad. Once is plenty for most pipes. Cotton balls are more convenient than the salt, and I cannot imagine using the Tube Goldberg pipe retort contraptions. This method is pretty easy.

If you want a clean pipe and it's a bit grimy, undiluted Murphy's oil soap and a soft toothbrush on the outside with a thorough rinse after helps a lot.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Not truly sour nor funky! From the o.p.. "They sometimes smell sour or the bit tastes odd. How can I do a complete deep cleaing of my pipes to remove all orders from all sections of the pipes? Thanks in advance."

And as to possibly having to take more time and trouble to do the salt and alcohol, it's possible! But I'd rather take 60 seconds to see if the hot water does the job, than spend 10-30 minutes when it wasn't needed at all.

Please put your location in your Profile, as people are forgetful.
Why:
That will save questions in the future as to where you live when you later mention local stores, weather, tobacco prices, availability, regulations, location of photos, wildfires, air quality, etc. In many instances that saves time for those who read your posts. It cuts down on posts or PMs asking where you are.
How:
Under your avatar, (top right, left most of three symbols) you choose "Account Details", which brings up "My Account". "My Location" is halfway down. Whatever you're comfortable with- town, city, county, state. province, etc.

 

[Briar Lee]

If, by deep clean you mean neutralize a pipe, it's going to take a bit of work. Here's what I do and it's a "no shortcuts no bullshit" approach.

1. Start by paring back all cake until it's barely a veil over the wood - I recommend glass paper wrapped around a piece of shaped doweling, or failing that a Pilot marking pen, to do the final sanding.

2. Clean out the shank airway - this may involve using a drill bit or a reamer to clear out any cake building in the airway. Use shank brushes to start, with Everclear or the equivalent alcohol and scrub, rinsing out the brushes repeatedly, to loosen, soften and remove most of the the surface deposits, then move on to scrubbing with tapered bristle brushes, however many it takes, until you're seeing the barest bit of brown on the bristle brush. Clean out the mortise, every bit of it, using dental tools if necessary to get deposits out of the corners. You want to see clean wood in the airway and the mortise. Scrub out the mortise walls thoroughly, using doubled over wads of tapered bristle cleaners that fit snuggly against the walls of the mortise and keep scrubbing until nothing is left to come off into the wad.

3. take a pipe cleaner, dipped in alcohol and insert it through the stem and leave it there for an hour. Then use it to scrub the interior of the stem. Repeat. You may need to repeat many times before the stem is actually clean inside. Don't forget to carefully scrub out the slot as well. it takes time and a good soak to loosen up deposits in the stem.

4. S/A treatment for the chamber. Don't be surprised if you need to do this more than once. You can substitute cotton balls for the salt.

5. Clean out of the airway. You thought you already did this? No, you only did the first step. Lighten moisten a fluffie pipe cleaner, insert it in the shank airway and hang the pipe, stem down, and forget about it for a few hours, then scrub to remove further deposits and rancid oils. Do this a few times. Next, lightly moisten a fluffie, insert it in the shank airway, and hang the pipe shank down and forget about it until the fluffie has completely dried out, pulling out rancid oils from the briar. Repeat this until you're barely getting any staining. Do the same thing to the mortise using barely dampened fluffie wads and let dry out. Usually takes 3 to 4 days of soaking and draining tobacco oils.

Or, you can avoid some of this by performing a boiling alcohol retort flush.

If you actually go though all of these steps thoroughly you will have deep cleaned years, possibly decades of embedded crap from the pipes' internals and will have a neutral pipe with no ghosts.

Have fun!

I cannot improve on this treatise of restoring a pipe at home, except nothing is mentioned of how to put the gleam back to the pipe after deep cleaning.

After deep cleaning, you’ll need to rub in as many applications of grape seed oil as the briar will absorb, using a paper towel, let dry, and buff with a wool rag or old wool sock.

I used to use olive oil for this, but on this forum I learned that grape seed oil is better, because it doesn’t go rancid and I don’t think it darkens the briar as much. An 8 ounce bottle will last for years.

GRAPESEED OIL ORGANIC CARRIER COLD PRESSED 100% PURE 8 OZ | eBay

ORGANIC GRAPESEED OIL, COLD PRESSED. Ingredients: Grapeseed oil, 100% Pure with NO additives or carriers added. It is noted to be especially effective to help the skin around the eyes. It's commonly used in stretch mark preparations.

www.ebay.com

Mineral oil will polish the vulcanite stems, but I only use Obsidian Oil now. Other cleaning potions will work on vulcanite but I like this best, and declare it magical how well it works.

OBSIDIAN PIPE OIL FOR PIPE STEMS | eBay

Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil isn’t a wax or a cleaner. Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil is specifically designed to help keep your vulcanite, ebonite or cumberland stems from oxidizing, and help keep them looking newer for longer.

www.ebay.com

After you’ve gone to all the trouble to restore your pipe, in the future I recommend using 190 proof Everclear and pipe cleaners and paper towels to keep it fresh.

A bit of prevention saves hours of curing neglect.

 

[sablebrush52]

I cannot improve on this treatise of restoring a pipe at home, except nothing is mentioned of how to put the gleam back to the pipe after deep cleaning.

After deep cleaning, you’ll need to rub in as many applications of grape seed oil as the briar will absorb, using a paper towel, let dry, and buff with a wool rag or old wool sock.

I used to use olive oil for this, but on this forum I learned that grape seed oil is better, because it doesn’t go rancid and I don’t think it darkens the briar as much. An 8 ounce bottle will last for years.

GRAPESEED OIL ORGANIC CARRIER COLD PRESSED 100% PURE 8 OZ | eBay

ORGANIC GRAPESEED OIL, COLD PRESSED. Ingredients: Grapeseed oil, 100% Pure with NO additives or carriers added. It is noted to be especially effective to help the skin around the eyes. It's commonly used in stretch mark preparations.

www.ebay.com

Mineral oil will polish the vulcanite stems, but I only use Obsidian Oil now. Other cleaning potions will work on vulcanite but I like this best, and declare it magical how well it works.

OBSIDIAN PIPE OIL FOR PIPE STEMS | eBay

Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil isn’t a wax or a cleaner. Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil is specifically designed to help keep your vulcanite, ebonite or cumberland stems from oxidizing, and help keep them looking newer for longer.

www.ebay.com

After you’ve gone to all the trouble to restore your pipe, in the future I recommend using 190 proof Everclear and pipe cleaners and paper towels to keep it fresh.

A bit of prevention saves hours of curing neglect.

I was responding to the OP's questionm which concerned deep cleaning. When I want to spiff up a pipe I prefer to use either Halcyon or Paragon Pipe Waxes which, when properly applied, result in a high gloss.

 

[Chasing Embers]

nothing is mentioned of how to put the gleam back to the pipe after deep cleaning

Jeweler's cloth on the stummel, a lighter and wet paper towel followed by toothpaste for the stem. I don't use Obsidian or mineral oil.

 

[jpmcwjr]

Nice work!

You do wax the bit after shining it, do you not? Or other method to retard oxidation?

Hard to tell with different lighting, but the stummel in both pix looks the same- high gloss.

 

[Chasing Embers]

You do wax the bit after shining it, do you not? Or other method to retard oxidation?

Nah, the ones I've burnt the oxidation off of haven't reoxidized.

Hard to tell with different lighting, but the stummel in both pix looks the same- high gloss.

Both photos were after polishing with the jeweler's cloth. I do the stummel work prior to the stem.

 

[LOREN]

I’ve seen boxes that make ozone. Does this sanitize or damage a pipe?

 

[Chasing Embers]

I’ve seen boxes that make ozone. Does this sanitize or damage a pipe?

Some restorers use ozone to de-ghost and disinfect a pipe.