Hi there, I’m looking for suggestions on how to forestall some burnout I found in my Dunhill estate pipe. I purchased it online as an admittedly silly first pipe. I received it, had a look at it, and noticed some spiderweb burns on the inside of the bowl, along with a slightly more severe section where there was a slight singe on the outside of the bowl. Any information anyone has on how to save the pipe so that I can smoke it well into the future would be welcome!
How to repair spiderwebbing/Burnout in an estate pipe
- Thread starter GagWholerunt
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Fireplace Mortar repair in Hardware, follow instructions!
Check our George Dibos' videos on pipe repair on YouTube and look for the one about applying a silicate coating to the chamber walls. That's the pro level repair.
Sometimes if the damage is minimal doing less is best. I’ve had pipes with minimal spider webbing that I smoked lightly until a cake formed over the damage.
I just attempted CaneRodPiper’s Pipe Mortar solution to strengthen the chamber on some new to me Estate Pipes. So far the process of making and applying it has been far better than all the other means I’ve tried… will keep you posted on the results.
I thought a Comoy’s Sandblast I found was a total goner until I took the cake and burnt briar out with a dental tool and then loosely applied the mixture to the sides (and also built up the bottom near the airway while I was at it). I’m really hopeful I’ll have a new Comoy’s to smoke! The stem was in decent shape but the chamber was disastrous. How does that even happen? Who were these vintage smokers!?
I thought a Comoy’s Sandblast I found was a total goner until I took the cake and burnt briar out with a dental tool and then loosely applied the mixture to the sides (and also built up the bottom near the airway while I was at it). I’m really hopeful I’ll have a new Comoy’s to smoke! The stem was in decent shape but the chamber was disastrous. How does that even happen? Who were these vintage smokers!?
I use a mixture of sodium silicate (waterglass), 4F pumice and activated charcoal.
Here's the Full Meal Deal demonstrated in realtime with explanations along the way.
I've done it this way for years on many dozens of pipes, and never had a report of anything other than success in every respect. Meaning no flavor or smoking performance change, no chipping or peeling, etc. It's as close as "back to new" as a chamber can be made, I think.
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I've done it this way for years on many dozens of pipes, and never had a report of anything other than success in every respect. Meaning no flavor or smoking performance change, no chipping or peeling, etc. It's as close as "back to new" as a chamber can be made, I think.
Repairing a Charred Briar Chamber
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Well lit and exposed photos would help, as well as being interesting.