I use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface of smooth pipes when I am preparing to refurbish them. Now, I'm also able to re-stain or tint the pipe if the alcohol leaches stain, so I'm less afraid of doing this. But in most cases, on a well made pipe, the stain penetrates the grain deeply enough that a light wipe down with alcohol and a cotton ball won't leach much stain. Care needs to be taken on the rim where the edges of the rim will leach stain at a faster rate than other areas of the bowl/stummel.
Acetone is another story altogether. I have also used acetone to cut grease, and clean bowls, but I ONLY do this when I know that I'm going to re-stain a pipe. Typically, if I think I'm going to need to use acetone, I'll usually start by bathing the bowl/stummel in iso, for up to 24 hours. But again, in these instances, I know I'm going to be re-staining those pipes.
I have used murphy's oil soap on rusticated and blasted pipes, which require a little more work than smooth pipes. I apply murphy's directly to the exterior of the stummel with a soft tooth brush, and then wipe off the soap and crud with a paper towel or cotton ball.
Yep! I used alcohol to try to get some charring on my bowl. I ruined the stain, it's cracked.
This is interesting. I've never had alcohol
crack stain. The stains I've seen penetrate the wood and don't sit on top of the briar thus creating a layer over the briar. Since cracking occurred, I wonder if your pipe had a varnish or a shellac instead of a stain. I don't have a lot of experience with these two materials in pipe finishing, but would love to hear from others who have experienced this in their pipe work.
$0.05 in the bucket.
-- Pat