Ok all, this is the final set of progress pics. Pipe is now complete!
The final stretch. Thank you all who have been following along with this! It has been a long journey! Here we go!
Step 71: I am using electrical tape to mask off the areas I don't want the sandblasting to effect.
Step 72: Taking it to the blasting cabinet.
Step 73: Here are the results. Unfortunately I ran into a pit on one side that went deep. I blasted it out, but it left the stummel a bit mis-shapen. This is my first blast on briar wood and the first time I'm using my new compressor, so overall I am very happy with the results. I really hope the client doesn't mind.
Step 74: Selecting the stain color. I am using powdered leather dye.
Step 75: I mix it with Denatured Alcohol inside of a mason jar.
Step 76: I use a junk piece of briar to check the color. I had to add more denatured alcohol 4 times in order to get the correct dark brown walnut color. It started out almost black.
Step 77: I stain the stummel using a brush.
Step 78: Here is how it looks immediately after applying the stain.
Step 79: I set the stain with a light coat of shellac mixed with denatured alcohol. It is about a 30/70 mix. I also take this opportunity to blot the stain with a paper towel to lighten the sandblast peaks a little. This is a controversial topic to some, using shellac. I choose to use it for a variety of reasons and know from personal experience it does NOT effect the smoking quality of the briar. The main reason to use it is to set the stain so that it does not come off on the smoker's fingers when the pipe gets warm from smoking.
Step 80: Here it is immediately after the shellac and blot process.
Step 81: Now it's back to finish the stem. We left off having sanded to 120 grit, so now it is time for 220 grit.
Step 82: I 220 Grit sand the slot as well.
Step 83: 320 Grit
Step 84: And the slot.
Step 85: 400 Grit
Step 86: Can you guess what's next? Yup . . . the slot!
Step 87: Now I tape of the stem close to the button to protect what is finished from the next step.
Step 88: I use a nut/fret seating file to make a crisp button crease. (Thanks to George Dibos for this method!)
Step 89: I then switch back to sandpaper, this time I wet sand with 600 grit.
Step 90: And the slot with 600 Grit, I leave the paper dry for this step.
Step 91: I have 3 cotton shoe laces which I have one end prepped with a wire to allow me to thread it through the stem hole (Thanks to Rad Davis for this method!)
Step 92: I charge the string with red tripoli, and polish the inside of the stem airway. I repeat this step using a new string with white diamond compound and then again with a fresh dry string with a tiny bit of wax applied.
Step 93: I heat up the stem with a heat gun until it becomes pliable, careful not to melt or boil/pit the ebonite.
Step 94: I then bend the stem and allow it to cool so that it holds its shape.
Step 95: I prep my buffing wheel with red tripoli.
Step 96: I start polishing the stem with the red tripoli compound.
Step 97: Stem Check, it's getting a bit shiny.
Step 98: I switch to my white diamond buff and charge it.
Step 99: I polish the stem with the white diamond buff.
Step 100: Another Stem Check, getting shinier!
Step 101: I switch to my wax buff and charge it with carnuba wax, a little goes a long way here.
Step 102: I polish with my wax buff, a very light touch is all that is required.
Step 103: Another Stem Check. All waxed up.
Step 104: Time to Stamp.
Step 105: First pipe I've ever stamped . . . Don't think I did bad at all!
OK That's It! Pipe has been completed, start to finish. I hope you all enjoyed the ride!
Finished pics will follow soon!