How do You Know it's a Quality Pipe ?

[Buescher308]

That's exactly the point. The Question is, "How Do You KNOW It's A Quality Pipe", not how do you guess it's a quality pipe. Like anything else, from cars to bed mates, it's all a guess until you experience it.

All very true my friend, all very true....

 

[Buescher308]

Smoking the pipe aside (which really is the best way to know if it is any good)because you can't when buying on line, you have to take into some consideration brand. reputation and reviews. That can get you an inkling so to speak about what it is you are potentially getting. What else do you have to go by when it it is not in your hands? This is not bullet proof however. You can still wind up with a clunker. I did with a brand name that was a mess and sent back. When at a B&M, I actually bring a pipe cleaner or two with me. If I see something I am interested in, I will try and run a cleaner through it. That tells me a bit about the drilling. I will also take the stem off and look at the draft hole and alignment. Also how does the stem come off? Too hard too loose...etc. These are for me some of the the things I look at pre-smoke. I don't have near the experience a lot of the guys on here have and they are much better to provide guidance and tips on what to really look for.

But ultimately, how does it smoke? I have a $25.00 basket briar that I would put up against any of my Petersons, Savinelli's, Stanwells etc. It actually is better than many. In my opinion.

Thanks for your reply and tips.. I will have to take a pipe cleaner along with me for the in-person purchases.

 

[Buescher308]

for those on budget and who would like cool, dry smoke with open (airy?)draw I'd like to suggest looking into falcon pipes

I actually just met a guy, Eddie, that owns a flea market in Calhoun, MO. Eddie showed me his personal collection of Falcon pipes. Very interesting pipe and heck of a nice guy.

 

[Buescher308]

Funny thing is what makes a great pipe is a lot of factors that are very much personal preferences, what makes a shitty piece of garbage pipe is pretty universal. Garbage is garbage.
The thing is a pipe is a tool, a pipe is a piece of art work, a pipe is a fashion accessory, a pipe is a meditative fetish (from the definition of something that helps one focus thoughts or energy [what the kids call vibe]), and probably a bunch of other things.
After you get past garbage the interplay of different disparate factors makes for the ultimate quality of a pipe.
What makes one great for me or you is going to be different. For example a lot of people here swear by open draw. I think an overly open draw isn't the be all and end all of a perfect pipe, in fact I kind of hate the way M.M. cobs smoke.
And yes brand can help determine if a pipe will probably be a good pipe. But it's not a certain thing with any pipe maker or brand.
Oh and here is a really important note on price. A lot of times what you pay for isn't going to make a better smoking pipe. You often pay for the time it takes to make a pipe like that. For example a nice factory pipe can smoke just as good as any artisan pipe. But if you look at how many pipes a factory puts out in a day (even if divided by the number of people who work on it) compared to how long it takes for one person to hand carve a pipe you can see why they have to cost more for the artisan pipe. And what's the advantage of hand carved? Each step can be informed by things like the natural grain of the briar instead of producing something just as beautiful but more random and less rare.

Very well said Sir. You and I have similar thoughts but that doesn't mean we have to agree with everyone's individual tastes and preferences. Be kind and carry on....

 

[Buescher308]

Absolute truth!

I know alot of people knock cobs, but there's as reason Missouri Meershaum has been in business as long as they have; their pipes are cheap and they work!

I'm a little late to the game, but I'm collecting the Buescher's Corn Cob Pipes. Mainly to make a display and later pass on to kids. I have a couple of M.M. to smoke and are easy to travel in pocket. I bought my good friend and neighbor a nice Churchwarden for Christmas. I love the cool draw and comfortable feel while kicking back for our daily decompression session. I hope to one day make my own handmade "Buescher" pipe to give to friends and family. Still researching materials and tooling.

 

[tzinc]

I actually like the look of Cobs I think it's as classic as a Dunhill or Castello, I but I have found there is a taste with them I don't like. I guess you could call it a "plain wood" type of taste. I use mine for the occasional aromatic now.

 

[Duck]

I hope to one day make my own handmade "Buescher" pipe to give to friends and family. Still researching materials and tooling.

This cob is destined to become a Falcon bowl in a couple of years time. Whether or not it will be quality remains unknown.

 

[Buescher308]

This cob is destined to become a Falcon bowl in a couple of years time. Whether or not it will be quality remains unknown.View attachment 117988

Is that a cob from a local corn field or something you purchased from a supplier? As with any hobby, one can produce a pipe with minimal tools (pocket knife, hand drill, rasp etc.) Or with the use of special equipment and tools (lathe, sanding disc, drill press, etc.) Who knows if I will complete the process for a "fine working piece of art, but it definitely sparks my interest. Especially, if I truly have family ties with the original Buescher's Pipes.

 

[hauntedmyst]

That sounds easy enough, but hard to judge without taking it on a test drive. I guess like most things in life with experience comes knowledge... I'm still at the infant stage.

As a newbie, whether buying a pipe online (FYI: you can return an unsmoked pipe to a online shop) or in person do this:

​

1. First, do you like the looks of it? Most likely so since you picked it up!
   1. Don't buy a pipe you are just so so about because it's a deal. Almost everyone here has probably bought a pipe they really didn't like and ended up selling it or tossing it.
   2. Is it a brand name? Check smokingpipes.com and look at their brands, they are generally all reputable and have a history of producing fine pipes. After a while, you can venture out to lesser brands but don't for now.
      1. There is a category known as basket pipes. These are cheap no name pipes many shops carry in a basket. You can find some hidden treasures in here once you know what you are doing but I'd avoid them at first. There is a reason they are cheap. Often they are pipes that are "ok" but the maker didn't think they were good enough to put their name on them. Again, with time, you'll learn to spot the gems but they are few and far between.
   3. Is the pipe heavy or light for it's size. Compare similar pipes in a shop to see what I mean. Lighter is better at least in my opinion.
2. Look at the over all fit and finish. Does it look like it was made by a professional?
   1. Avoid overly shiny cheap pipes. They sometimes use finishes that don't let the heat out and will smoke hot.
   2. Can you see fill? Most briar naturally has pits in it. These are either covered with fill or sandblasted out. Fill isn't a deal breaker in terms of smoking quality but most quality pipe makers you won't see the fill unless you have a magnifying glass or have heavily smoked the bowl. Visible ugly fill on a brand new pipe is a sign of shoddy workmanship.
3. Look down the bowl.
   1. Is the chamber finished with a coating or is it smooth briar?
      1. Either is fine as long as it's uniform and doesn't have tool marks.
   2. Are the walls thick enough? This is hard to judge at first but don't go with a thin bowled pipe as it may smoke so hot you can't hold it.
   3. I like at least .35 inches or 8mm to 9mm wide bowls so it doesn't get hot in your hand.
   4. Is the draft hole on the bottom, in the center. Don't get one that's drill off center or where tobacco can sit below the draft hole.
4. How is the transition from the shank to the stem? Is it perfect or are there gaps? Gaps are a sign of shoddy workmanship.
5. Take it apart, look at the mortise and stem.
   1. Is the draft hole drilled in the center of the mortise? It should be. Don't get a pipe that's drilled off center.
      ​
   2. Does it look like it's drilled to 3.2 to 4mm? This is hard to judge unless you've worked with wood or smoked a pipe. You don't want a draft hole drilled to small or it will be hard on draw.
   3. Does the draft hole look smooth from what you can see? If not, its shoddy work.
   4. Its the inside of the mortise sanded or rough? You want sanded.
   5. Look at the end of the tenon. It should also be drilled on center and look professionally finished.
6. Now put it back together and slide a pipe cleaner in it. Does it go all the way to the bowl with no problems? It should, whether its a bent or curved pipe. This can be somewhat fixed with experience but don't risk it until you are very comfortable smoking.
7. If in a store, ask if they have a pipe condom you can put on the mouthpiece and see how the bit feels in your mouth. Some stores have them, most don't.
   1. A pipe should be comfortable in your mouth. This is very personal. Pipe makers make bits in different shapes and styles. Even the "normal" bit can very greatly from maker to maker. The most graphic example I caan think of between standard and normal is this Peterson Aran. The first is the Peterson P-Lip, the second standard.
   2. Bring a tiny plastic bag if you have one from some electronics or tiny screws to double as a pipe condom.
   3. If not ask if you can put it in your mouth after some sanitizer and see how it fits and check the draw. With no tobacco in it, it should be free flowing.

I think I've covered most of it. I'm sure others will chime in if I missed anything. Happy smoking!

 

[Buescher308]

I've had $25 Mr. Brog & Dr. Grabow pipes smoke just as good as a $100 big name factory pipe. I've had a couple $100 pipes smoke as poorly as a basket pipe from a vape shop.

The key to a good pipe is finding quality wood and getting it into the hands of a reputable carver/ manufacturer.

YMMV.

How does one know if the wood is quality? Beyond briarwood, hickory, cherry or pair? Age of wood? Growth rings that are appealing to the eye? Is there a specific direction that the grain should be carved from?

 

[Chasing Embers]

I'm too new to even understand what that means ?

Asking an artisan to make you a pipe without any specs.

 

[hauntedmyst]

How does one know if the wood is quality? Beyond briarwood, hickory, cherry or pair? Age of wood? Growth rings that are appealing to the eye? Is there a specific direction that the grain should be carved from?

There is quite a bit of reading on pipedia about this. Also on here and smokingpipes.com. As a whole, if it's name brand, it will be quality meaning properly age, and properly dried before the pipe was made. There are always exceptions but if a pipe burns out, most stores or manufacturers warranty it for up to one year. I've been smoking for 40 years and had 4 burnouts. All were refunded or replaced by the manufacturer. In a briar pipe, grain direction has nothing to do with smoking qualities. Most avoid bald spots with no grain since they are usually denser but those pipes are rare.

 

[Buescher308]

As a newbie, whether buying a pipe online (FYI: you can return an unsmoked pipe to a online shop) or in person do this:

View attachment 117986​

1. First, do you like the looks of it? Most likely so since you picked it up!
   1. Don't buy a pipe you are just so so about because it's a deal. Almost everyone here has probably bought a pipe they really didn't like and ended up selling it or tossing it.
   2. Is it a brand name? Check smokingpipes.com and look at their brands, they are generally all reputable and have a history of producing fine pipes. After a while, you can venture out to lesser brands but don't for now.
      1. There is a category known as basket pipes. These are cheap no name pipes many shops carry in a basket. You can find some hidden treasures in here once you know what you are doing but I'd avoid them at first. There is a reason they are cheap. Often they are pipes that are "ok" but the maker didn't think they were good enough to put their name on them. Again, with time, you'll learn to spot the gems but they are few and far between.
   3. Is the pipe heavy or light for it's size. Compare similar pipes in a shop to see what I mean. Lighter is better at least in my opinion.
2. Look at the over all fit and finish. Does it look like it was made by a professional?
   1. Avoid overly shiny cheap pipes. They sometimes use finishes that don't let the heat out and will smoke hot.
   2. Can you see fill? Most briar naturally has pits in it. These are either covered with fill or sandblasted out. Fill isn't a deal breaker in terms of smoking quality but most quality pipe makers you won't see the fill unless you have a magnifying glass or have heavily smoked the bowl. Visible ugly fill on a brand new pipe is a sign of shoddy workmanship.
3. Look down the bowl.
   1. Is the chamber finished with a coating or is it smooth briar?
      1. Either is fine as long as it's uniform and doesn't have tool marks.
   2. Are the walls thick enough? This is hard to judge at first but don't go with a thin bowled pipe as it may smoke so hot you can't hold it.
   3. I like at least .35 inches or 8mm to 9mm wide bowls so it doesn't get hot in your hand.
   4. Is the draft hole on the bottom, in the center. Don't get one that's drill off center or where tobacco can sit below the draft hole.
4. How is the transition from the shank to the stem? Is it perfect or are there gaps? Gaps are a sign of shoddy workmanship.
5. Take it apart, look at the mortise and stem.
   1. Is the draft hole drilled in the center of the mortise? It should be. Don't get a pipe that's drilled off center.
      View attachment 117995​
   2. Does it look like it's drilled to 3.2 to 4mm? This is hard to judge unless you've worked with wood or smoked a pipe. You don't want a draft hole drilled to small or it will be hard on draw.
   3. Does the draft hole look smooth from what you can see? If not, its shoddy work.
   4. Its the inside of the mortise sanded or rough? You want sanded.
   5. Look at the end of the tenon. It should also be drilled on center and look professionally finished.
6. Now put it back together and slide a pipe cleaner in it. Does it go all the way to the bowl with no problems? It should, whether its a bent or curved pipe. This can be somewhat fixed with experience but don't risk it until you are very comfortable smoking.
7. If in a store, ask if they have a pipe condom you can put on the mouthpiece and see how the bit feels in your mouth. Some stores have them, most don't.
   1. A pipe should be comfortable in your mouth. This is very personal. Pipe makers make bits in different shapes and styles. Even the "normal" bit can very greatly from maker to maker. The most graphic example I caan think of between standard and normal is this Peterson Aran. The first is the Peterson P-Lip, the second standard.View attachment 117998View attachment 117999
   2. Bring a tiny plastic bag if you have one from some electronics or tiny screws to double as a pipe condom.
   3. If not ask if you can put it in your mouth after some sanitizer and see how it fits and check the draw. With no tobacco in it, it should be free flowing.

I think I've covered most of it. I'm sure others will chime in if I missed anything. Happy smoking!

Excellent information!!!! If this post isn't a sticky admin should make it so. Very helpful and friendly advice. Everyone has been great at helping to educate me here.

 

[Duck]

Is that a cob from a local corn field or something you purchased from a supplier?

It's one that somebody grew in their garden, it's much bigger than the ones farmers grow. Here it is next to my Buescher which has a 20mm/⅘" chamber.

 

[Chasing Embers]

What are signs of good drilling?

A straight clean drill from mouthpiece to draft hole with no burrs or blockages.

good stem work?

A comfortable button and good funneling in the mouthpiece to the airway and a chamfered tenon to reduce drag in the flow of the draw.

Shaping to me is up to the eye of the beholder? Or is there more to shape than curb appeal?

A pipe's outside shape is just aesthetic, it doesn't affect the smoking properties of the pipe.

 

[Buescher308]

It's one that somebody grew in their garden, it's much bigger than the ones farmers grow. Here it is next to my Buescher which has a 20mm/⅘" chamber.

What is the average time for cob to dry or age before carving? How does one know that it is ready?

 

[Buescher308]

A straight clean drill from mouthpiece to draft hole with no burrs or blockages.



A comfortable button and good funneling in the mouthpiece to the airway and a chamfered tenon to reduce drag in the flow of the draw.



A pipe's outside shape is just aesthetic, it doesn't affect the smoking properties of the pipe.

Much appreciate you sharing this knowledge. The next time I have a smoke with my good friend he will appreciate my interest in becoming more educated.

 

[Duck]

What is the average time for cob to dry or age before carving? How does one know that it is ready?

I know that Missouri Meerschaum dry them for two years. I put mine on radiator for a couple of hours, just to dry it enough to prevent mould. I'm just going to let it dry for a couple of years, and hope for the best.

 

[Buescher308]

I know that Missouri Meerschaum dry them for two years. I put mine on radiator for a couple of hours, just to dry it enough to prevent mould. I'm just going to let it dry for a couple of years, and hope for the best.

Hopefully it will be perfect. I wonder if one could speed up the process with a quality dehydrator?

 

[Chasing Embers]

How does one know if the wood is quality?

No cracks.

Growth rings that are appealing to the eye?

That's just aesthetic.

Is there a specific direction that the grain should be carved from?

Nope. They can be cut vertically, crosswise or anything in between. Briar is very dense and resistant to burning regardless of the cut or finish.

Vertical Smooth


Crosscut Smooth



Vertical Sandblast