How do Pipe Makers Obtain Outrageously Good Finshes?
- Thread starter Briar Lee
- Start date
Not sure this applies to pipes but to woodworking the French polishing technique comes to mind to create a great glossy finish.
The super hi-gloss is a look I am not fond of [e.g.: Yeti Pipes]. OTOH, a high shine on a traditionally made pipe I love. I believe it often entails 2-4 very thin coatings of shellac with very fine grit or cloth in between.
That's truly a beautiful finish. Wonder how long it will last?
As a few of you may have heard, I tent to like Searocks. With that finish shiny doesn't mean much to me. As a matter of fact, I tend to like them better as they get older and duller. It gives them character! I don't think I have a pipe in my collection (except a few I made that are unsmoked) that has ever been touched with any kind of polish, wax, etc.. To each his own.
Micah mentioned developing this finish specifically to do exactly that!That's truly a beautiful finish. Wonder how long it will last?
Looks remarkable. Wonder if he will share his technique?
Who knows. Wouldn’t fault him at all if he wanted to keep that particular trick to himself.
If you're really are serious about putting a shine on your pipes, the best way is with a buffing machine. Get one that is about a half horse and about 1,600 rpm. Don't get much faster than that or you risk burning. You'll need several brush wheels and some compound and carnauba. Buff the pipe bowl in this order using different wheels for different compounds and wax. Medium grit compound, Clean wheel, fine grit, clean wheel, wax, clean wheel and finish with a soft cloth.
Buffing machines can be dangerous. Putting a pipe bowl or anything else for that matter, against a running wheel needs to be done correctly. Don't put a sharp edge against the wheel. The wheel can catch it, rip it from your hand and send it flying like a bullet. After a few screw ups you'll get the idea.... if you survive.
Buffing machines can be dangerous. Putting a pipe bowl or anything else for that matter, against a running wheel needs to be done correctly. Don't put a sharp edge against the wheel. The wheel can catch it, rip it from your hand and send it flying like a bullet. After a few screw ups you'll get the idea.... if you survive.
I like bordello gaudy glossy and I like sandblast. If it’s a pipe I love it.
But most of all I love unstained, but polished Algerian briar.
One day, about five smokes.
From the color of the bore hole I reamed out, to a glowing thing of beauty.
To get this finish in one day, apply beeswax while smoking.
But most of all I love unstained, but polished Algerian briar.
One day, about five smokes.
From the color of the bore hole I reamed out, to a glowing thing of beauty.
To get this finish in one day, apply beeswax while smoking.
Looks nice one the shelf though.^^^^^
Yup. Don't want my pipes looking like a polyurethaned floorboard
If you have a lathe, grab a 3 set of buffing wheels and you can move through the compounds in no time.
I call this the Pucker Polish. Its a risk reward thing. You can see how your getting on around the bowl but you can also watch your freshly crafted pipe get its own shop floor rustication....Buffing machines can be dangerous. Putting a pipe bowl or anything else for that matter, against a running wheel needs to be done correctly. Don't put a sharp edge against the wheel. The wheel can catch it, rip it from your hand and send it flying like a bullet. After a few screw ups you'll get the idea.... if you survive.
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Bob Flexner's book "Understanding Wood Finishing" is your best basic resource for ... understanding wood finishing. It's a wonderful walkthrough and explains how different resins work, what you can acheive with each product and how to pick products that will work well for your application.
Making something shiny amounts to making something flat. Truly flat, not cellular in structure. So it's an iterative process of filling in micro-structure and grinding off excess.
Making something shiny amounts to making something flat. Truly flat, not cellular in structure. So it's an iterative process of filling in micro-structure and grinding off excess.
I've known many top level carvers for many years, with technical stuff being the main topic when conversation gets serious.
I'm not sure if it'll inspire or depress you, but top-level finish work is largely proprietary.
It takes lots of experimentation and practice to figure out---years in most cases---and finishes tend to be seen by them as what makes otherwise similar pipes better than others. Meaning it's what makes a carver stand out from the crowd.
I'm not sure if it'll inspire or depress you, but top-level finish work is largely proprietary.
It takes lots of experimentation and practice to figure out---years in most cases---and finishes tend to be seen by them as what makes otherwise similar pipes better than others. Meaning it's what makes a carver stand out from the crowd.