Got a Drilling Problem (Technical Question)

[mawnansmiff]

I reckon Wayne has pretty much described the likelihood of removing the offending broken bit but I would up the odds to 1000+ to 1 that superglue would do it. Just think for one moment, you have to somehow drop superglue down a blind hole and have it land ONLY on the broken shank of the drill, (any glue that spills over will of course set it in place even further) then you have to somehow (still working down a blind hole) affix the other end of the drill bit PERFECTLY in place and hold it while the glue cures.
Assuming you get all that right you then have the joy of somehow reversing the bit out whilst the glue still holds.
Nigh on impossible to my eye.
Regards,
Jay.

 

[cosmicfolklore]

I've gotten them out of presidium metals with glue, but as said the briar may have tightened around the bit. When I drill into metals, I am going very slow with lots of lubricant. So, apples and oranges. In metal, I don't drop the glue down the hole. I just put a droplet with hyponeedle onto the bit and then insert the bit. That's probably no help here. The bit is probably tight as a nail.

I also have lots of results dissolving bits, but metals don't absorb like briar does. If I have a SNAFU in brass or bronze, I just chunk it. Time is money... unless we're talking about prescious metals.
Edit, spellcheck made "prescious" into "presidium". Now I have to go look that word up, ha ha.

 

[jabo]

Ran into this type problem before. Except on Engines. Maybe a left handed drill bit would work. ( yes, there is such a thing, try McMaster Carr.) Unfortunately, project may have ta be scrapped. Interested to see what happens. We learn by experience, and it's usually expensive ! Good luck !

 

[jabo]

Hey, an epiphany. Cut the bowl off and use a bamboo stem. Might look good and save what could be considered a total loss. THAT'S CRAFTSMANSHIP.

 

[tmb152]

Those core bits linked above are designed for cutting through glass and marble, not wood. It will not do anything but burn the wood. As to cutting teeth in your own tubing, man, do you know how hard most stainless steels are? Have you ever tried machining B9 or 303? And you want to cut and file sharp teeth suitable for drilling wood in it to save a piece of briar? It would be far easier to just scrap the briar for a new piece.
Even if you actually make it, the tubing will jam and plug up before you can get deep enough to remove the bit and wood all in one section, which is how it will come out. Short of cutting the shank short enough to expose the end of the bit and trying to wrestle it out, make life easy for yourself and either punch the bit back out from the front as said before, or just redrill past it a new hole, if you want to save both your briar piece and your sanity. :mrgreen:

 

[wyfbane]

All this shooting down of ideas reminds me of Donald Sutherland and Gavin MacLeod in Kelly's Heroes.
"Don't hit me with them negative waves so early in the morning!"
Negative Waves

 

[georged]

tmb,
I like how reliably you make me---and probably much of the rest of the board---laugh. :lol:
Whatever you do, don't stop. A certain type (flavor?)) of comic relief is hard to come by in this world, and you absolutely nail it every time.

 

[zack24]

Throw the block away....Also throw away your broken 3mm drill bit and go buy a new block and buy a 4mm drill bit. Spin in a circle three times and swear never to drill a constricted airway with a 3mm drill. Drill 4mm airholes henceforth and you will break fewer bits and your customers will use fewer pipe cleaners...

 

[tmb152]

tmb,
I like how reliably you make me---and probably much of the rest of the board---laugh.

Please, George, don't hold back. BE SPECIFIC. Tell me exactly in fine detail what I said that is so damned funny, so ridiculous, so scorn-worthy, and I will show everyone what a pretentious, self-righteous, arrogant SNOB you actually are. When I joined this group you started right out attacking me from Day One for no good reason, once even accusing me of being some old member you didn't like. And you haven't been right about one thing then or since.
Part of the comment was edited out by Moderator. ~Cosmic

 

[georged]

I rest my case. (Please don't stop on my account!) :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[igloo]

Go to a auto body repair facility they have a stud pulling welder for dents that will pull that bit right out .

 

[georged]

lohengrin --
Here ya go. PM me your address and I'll be glad to mail it to you.
Remember to open the block's airway to the outside diameter of this "tube drill" so it's a slip-fit, then use it gently and slowly (if you don't have a variable speed hand drill, borrow one). Patience is key. Also, clear the chip OFTEN.

 

[jvnshr]

That one

When I drill, I am going very slow with lots of lubricant. I don't drop the glue down the hole. I just put a droplet with hyponeedle onto the bit and then insert the bit. That's probably no help here. The bit is probably tight as a nail.

:lol: :lol:

 

[cossackjack]

@georged: Very nice Core Bit

Anxious to find out if this works.

 

[ebklodt]

I would cut it down and remove the bit. Then use horn or bamboo to complete the pipe.
In the future, always drill the tobacco chamber last as to allow the chamber and air hole to meet properly. You can drill the smoke chamber just too the air hole and then visually, using small plunges and re-checking depth, bring the tobacco chamber to the proper depth meeting the air hole. Hope that makes sense.

 

[pagan]

Drill the Bowl hole and the carefully punch the broken bit thru, it looks as your there already

 

[georged]

Several people have asked about the dimensions of the "tube drill" in the photo. Its OD is .187" (4.7mm), and ID is .148" (3.8mm). The length is 4.5"
The reason the ID is slightly larger in diameter than absolutely necessary to fit over the stuck bit is because a "casual" fit is best when dealing with wood, hand tools, and co-axial drilling situations.
-----
Note for those who care about such things: In the machine world there is the "interference fit" where two pieces are pressed together permanently (via slightly undersized hole or oversized insert); "exact fit" which is tight but removable, where the two parts are precisely the same size; "slip fit" which is a few thousandths under, for smooth piston-in-a-cylinder type applications; and "casual fit" which means there's a small but detectable amount of rattle when the parts are put together.

 

[sasquatch]

2 things here.
1: It's a block of briar, you screwed it up, throw it out and do another.
2: You're drilling protocol is bad if you are breaking drill bits. Clear chips. Clear chips. Clear chips. I know it feels good to shove it in, but you gotta pull it out sometimes too.

 

[lohengrin]

Well, I know the easiest way to solve problems is to get rid of them.

If I were a professional I would not loose time on a piece of briar. On the other hand, if somebody finds an easy

solution to this problem, I think that even professionals would take advantage and, maybe, they would not throw away that block of briar.

I already drilled more than 30 pipes and I know I have to clear chips, but I belong to that limited group of people that sometimes make mistakes and I am not ashamed to ask suggestions from somebody more experienced than me.

All in all, the most interesting thing is to see the way so many brains work around a problem (as small as it can

be) to resolve it.

 

[georged]

Don't mind Sasquatch. I've known him a long time. Good guy. He's a Canadian and winter is coming, is all. That always makes him grumpy. :lol: