First Big Repair - Giant Hole on The Bottom of a 1977 Peterson Donegal 999
- Thread starter Dshift
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Did the photos upload weird? There should be a big hole at the bottom and after that no more holeYes, but WHAT did you do ?
Just like that? Not even an incantation and magic wand?Did the photos upload weird? There should be a big hole at the bottom and after that no more hole
That hole looks purposely drilled to me; it doesn't seem like a natural pit. What type of filler did you use ? How did you prevent overfilling into the chamber ? Just curious as to the method. Was this an estate pipe you acquired ? Some more info would be helpful. The repair looks nice from the outside. Thanks.
asking the real questions
I can hear it just looking at that picture!
While we wait for the secrets to the repair...
I just went from blue switches to red, so my friends aren't annoyed when we play.
Yeah I went from gateron blues to kaihl box blacks about 7 years ago but my anne pro 2 is now dying. I'm thinking about going with jupiter bananas but haven't decided on it yet.While we wait for the secrets to the repair...
I just went from blue switches to red, so my friends aren't annoyed when we play.
Jees I shouldn’t post threads if I will be having a busy day…
Let me answer some questions now, starting from the most important one!
The keyboard is just an Akko barebones that’s been heavily modded(tape, stabs, foam, everything hand lubed with some NASA grade stuff) I don’t remember where I got the caps from, but double PBTs and gataron ink box II switches that has been faffed with too. Very creamy and poppy sounding thing that’s been covered in pipe restoration grime…
Now about the pipe I got it off of eBay and the seller did not mention the hole so after a bit of back and forth, it costed me 10€ at the end. The damage was 100% done by someone trying to clean condensation tank with something sharp and metal.
For the repair itself I used a waxed q tip and a waxed pipe cleaner for a back support. This is not a regular fill, instead I put a very thin layer of slow ca glue on the edges and then dabbed and pushed a bit of briar dust into the glue. The briar dust was also mixed with a bit of activated charcoal in an attempt to darken it so it matches the color of the pipe. I think it took around 10 layers to close the hole completely, but on the last two I used a lot more briar dust into hopes that it would take on some leather dye(which it did). Lastly I played a bit with a dremel to match the rustication somewhat.
That’s the outside done, after I reinforced the bottom of the condensation tank with the same wood dust glue mixture and gave it a silicate coating for good measure.
Let me answer some questions now, starting from the most important one!
The keyboard is just an Akko barebones that’s been heavily modded(tape, stabs, foam, everything hand lubed with some NASA grade stuff) I don’t remember where I got the caps from, but double PBTs and gataron ink box II switches that has been faffed with too. Very creamy and poppy sounding thing that’s been covered in pipe restoration grime…
Now about the pipe I got it off of eBay and the seller did not mention the hole so after a bit of back and forth, it costed me 10€ at the end. The damage was 100% done by someone trying to clean condensation tank with something sharp and metal.
For the repair itself I used a waxed q tip and a waxed pipe cleaner for a back support. This is not a regular fill, instead I put a very thin layer of slow ca glue on the edges and then dabbed and pushed a bit of briar dust into the glue. The briar dust was also mixed with a bit of activated charcoal in an attempt to darken it so it matches the color of the pipe. I think it took around 10 layers to close the hole completely, but on the last two I used a lot more briar dust into hopes that it would take on some leather dye(which it did). Lastly I played a bit with a dremel to match the rustication somewhat.
That’s the outside done, after I reinforced the bottom of the condensation tank with the same wood dust glue mixture and gave it a silicate coating for good measure.
Right after this success I decided to grow a pair and deal with another patient, that I have been postponing for some time - a Porsche Design with a very rough rim top.
The steel and coating were for some reason a nightmare to sand down and it took 2 whole A4 sheets of my roughest and most heavy duty sandpaper to manage it. Although I had to ged rid of the coating I love the results.
I did go a bit above and beyond for this one by arranging a Porsche Approved workshop to recoat it with if not the same at least matching Porsche coating, plus they would issue a “certificate of authenticity” of their work. This last part will be a surprise for the future owner, if they are willing to wait extra three weeks for it
here are some photos.
The steel and coating were for some reason a nightmare to sand down and it took 2 whole A4 sheets of my roughest and most heavy duty sandpaper to manage it. Although I had to ged rid of the coating I love the results.
I did go a bit above and beyond for this one by arranging a Porsche Approved workshop to recoat it with if not the same at least matching Porsche coating, plus they would issue a “certificate of authenticity” of their work. This last part will be a surprise for the future owner, if they are willing to wait extra three weeks for it
here are some photos.
Oh ... well ... that's a completely different story now ...