First Attempt

[nwgibson85]

Oh and Seth, sorry forgot to thank you for the explanation. Would it be wrong to use a dremel to strip the cake back down to bare wood, then attempt the salt and booze treatment?
Next question is everclear the best because of alcohol content? Everything I have read from older books talks about using whiskey. Is that for the flavor of whiskey that would get trapped in the briar while leaching the oils?

 

[seth]

You're more than welcome. No idea on the Dremel, I have a set of reamers I got for about $9, though I would think you'd want to be awfully careful. From what I've read thus far the majority say not to take it all the way down to the bare wood, to leave a thin layer of cake. I'm not really equipped to give you a solid opinion, as I just started myself.
I believe you said you have your Grandfather's pipes? I would go find a cheap one that you're not concerned about ruining to start with, that's what I've done. It would sicken me to ruin a fine pipe, especially if I had my Grandpas.

 

[smokindawg]

When your beginning your start into refurbing pipes my suggestion is too always start with cheap pipes that you don't have a sentimental investment in or that aren't expensive pipes. Purchase a batch of cheap pipes on ebay, or anywhere else you can buy a few pipes all at one time.
I'd stay away from using a dremel on the inside of the bowl, at least until I knew I could have complete control over it. Even then I would hesitate to use one, unless it was a variable speed and you could run it really slow.
What I do on some pipes is take a wooden dowel and cut a slot up one end. I then fold a piece of sandpaper in half. I make sure it's a bit wider once folded than the slot is long. I then put this in the slot and install the dowel in my drill press. Then on the slow speed I work the pipe bowl on the sandpaper/dowel and can take the cake out. This is the process I use if I want to take it back to wood. But you could use this method on just the cake and leave a thin layer if you use really fine grit paper.
I also sand my bowls after making a pipe, if need be.
As too the retort. You do have to be careful using alcohol of any type as it will remove the finish. With a retort, they say to stuff the bowl with a cotton ball. I tried that a couple times and just couldn't keep from getting alcohol on the finish. So what I did is get a few rubber corks (From my local lumber yard)I drilled down thru the center and then installed a rubber tubing connector down thru it. I then put a piece of tubing on the fitting on top of the cork. This way when you install the cork into the top of the bowl it seals completley keeping the alcohol from getting on the finish. This also allows the alcohol to better clean the bowl area.

 

[nwgibson85]

Awesome thanks again for the advise all. I have a few cheep and in need of some serious repair pipes. Will most definitely practice on those before going to my Gpa's.

 

[seth]

Here it is, before and after. I still need to hit the stem again with the carnauba. It turned out pretty good. Smokes alot cooler than my little kaywoodie.

and after

 

[lifeon2]

very nice work man

 

[seth]

Thanks life. Im hooked right through the sack now, so hopefully good things will follow.

 

[smokindawg]

Seth, you'll find that as you get deeper into refurbing/cleaning pipes that you'll run across stems with a lot more oxidation than on that one.
I was recently turned onto micro-mesh for sanding stems. This is something you'll have to get into to remove bigger nicks and tooth marks. I have been using wet/dry sandpaper and it works, but doesn't last long. The micro mesh will work wet, which is the best way to sand anyway. I haven't had a chance to use mine yet but have it and it looks good. They say each 2x2 pad is good for about 100 or so stems. You can use it, clean it and let it dry and then use it again, over and over.
Vulcanite has a memory of sorts so smaller tooth marks can be removed using heat. I run the areas with tooth marks over a heat source. I use a bic. This will raise the tooth marks. I do mine a bit, then let the stem cool. I then use the heat again. Most the time the tooth marks will disappear completely or almost anyway. I follow this with the sanding to take them out completely. Then buff the stem so that you never even know they were there. With bigger ones, I heat and repeat untill they stop going away and then sand them till the stem is smooth with the mark and they are gone too. Sometimes it takes a lot of elbow work, but the finished product is worth the tiime involved.
You did a good job on that one and now your probably well hooked and will probably buy more estates once your done with those.

 

[wildcat]

Great job Seth! Lawrence thanks for the YouTube link! I watched all 3 segments. Great tips smokindawg, thx!
Since my first repair attempt of the Kaywoodie 4 hole with the broken shank I posted here a few weeks back I have been bitten by this affliction as well! Very relaxing and very satisfying.

 

[seth]

Hey smokin, where do you acquire micro mesh?

 

[uberam3rica]

Great job! especially for your first try. Just buff up the stem a bit and shes good as new

 

[logandow]

Excellent job!

 

[juni]

The difference is like night and day. Feels good to rescue a pipe, doesn't it?