Does Sasieni pipes have a filter?
- Thread starter pcfdave
- Start date
SmokingPipes.com Updates
Watch for Updates Twice a Week
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
Site Sponsors
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor
I don't know about removing the hardware, but when I encounter a pipe I cannot get a pipe cleaner through I use a section of guitar string. A wound G-string can sometimes clear the obstruction.
It's not a screw on stem. What has happened is that the vulcanite tenon has gotten stuck in the mortise, and unscrewed itself from the stem. You can fix this by softening up the crap between the tenon and the mortise with alcohol. Might take an hour or so, but take an eyedropper, or better, a syringe if you have one, and drip alcohol around the stuck tenon, a bit at a time, and let it dissolve into the crap. You can then screw on the stem and GENTLY twist out the tenon. If it doesn't want to move, don't force it. More alcohol drips for another 20 minutes and try again. You can also try freezing the pipe for a bit to see if that breaks the crap's grip.
That's not the original tenon, but a Delrin replacement that was not properly attached.
An entire thread was devoted to the subject on the pipemakers forum:
Though it sounds reasonable and logical, there's no gunk holding it in place to dissolve, so if you haven't messed with dripping alcohol yet, don't bother.
In fact, before doing anything, check the hole in the face of the stem. Is it threaded? If yes, just screw the stem back on and remove the stuck tenon by twisting clockwise. Everything will be whole again---the tenon will be re-attached---and you're good to go as long as you remember to always twist to the right whether installing or removing the stem.
If the hole in the face of the stem is not threaded, you can simply gently remove the tenon with some properly fitting pliers. (Doing that will likely leave some impressed grooves in the threads, but it's OK---some lengthwise grooves should have been put there to begin with).
Unless you have the tools to prepare the surfaces to re-glue the tenon, however, as well as the proper glue, AND know how to avoid gluing the stem to the shank, removing it yourself will achieve nothing. You'll have to send the pipe to a repair guy.
PS --- the lack of pipe cleaner passage is part of the improper tenon install "package"... (Correctly done, that isn't a problem.)
An entire thread was devoted to the subject on the pipemakers forum:
Though it sounds reasonable and logical, there's no gunk holding it in place to dissolve, so if you haven't messed with dripping alcohol yet, don't bother.
In fact, before doing anything, check the hole in the face of the stem. Is it threaded? If yes, just screw the stem back on and remove the stuck tenon by twisting clockwise. Everything will be whole again---the tenon will be re-attached---and you're good to go as long as you remember to always twist to the right whether installing or removing the stem.
If the hole in the face of the stem is not threaded, you can simply gently remove the tenon with some properly fitting pliers. (Doing that will likely leave some impressed grooves in the threads, but it's OK---some lengthwise grooves should have been put there to begin with).
Unless you have the tools to prepare the surfaces to re-glue the tenon, however, as well as the proper glue, AND know how to avoid gluing the stem to the shank, removing it yourself will achieve nothing. You'll have to send the pipe to a repair guy.
PS --- the lack of pipe cleaner passage is part of the improper tenon install "package"... (Correctly done, that isn't a problem.)
Last edited:
Yep. One way or the other, that's ultimately what you will do to twist out the tenon. And it i's actually gooped up, alcohol drip will free it.
Okay reading everything you guys said. I can screw the stem clockwise and it should undo the tenon. Messing with my righty tighty thinking. Lol. It worked! @sablebrush52 @georged you guys are the reason why these boards are invaluable. Thanks for helping me salvage a priceless pipe to me from my dad who has passed.
Since I have you on the line…
. This was my first 4 dot from him and it broke on a flight home after visiting him. I had it in one of my dress shoes thinking it was safe…I know I know. This was over 20 years ago and I didn’t know better to have a pipe travel case. It was my first and only one then. I had a buddy repair it with violin glue and it lasted forever but alas it broke again. The looks are not critical to me other than to safely glue it again and be able to smoke it annually on his day of passing. Any glue suggestions for that? Thanks in advance. 
. This was my first 4 dot from him and it broke on a flight home after visiting him. I had it in one of my dress shoes thinking it was safe…I know I know. This was over 20 years ago and I didn’t know better to have a pipe travel case. It was my first and only one then. I had a buddy repair it with violin glue and it lasted forever but alas it broke again. The looks are not critical to me other than to safely glue it again and be able to smoke it annually on his day of passing. Any glue suggestions for that? Thanks in advance.
The only proper way to fix a shank break like this is to send it to @georged to do the repair. This requires removing the existing glue and regluing the break, followed by widening the airway enough to install a steel sheath inside that connects the two halves. The resulting repair will be permanent and will be stronger than the original shank. Nothing less will hold up long term.
Watch this tutorial to see if doing it yourself is an option. (You'll know one way or the other by just seeing it done --- either "Yup, not a problem" or "No way" will spring into your head of its own accord):
www.youtube.com
Replacing a Snapped Off Shank that was Previously Glued
Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
www.youtube.com
Because of the location of the break---at the base of the mortise---a stainless steel sleeve would serve no purpose. (such tubes aren't for strength but to keep the wood dry where it's attached to the glue)
There are only two choices with that pipe: re-do the glue job that failed; or shorten the shank to a half inch past the base of the mortise and attach an entirely new piece of drilled wood to it, then shape the outside and fit an ss tube to the inside.
The latter would nuke the nomenclature, of course.
If the pipe is to be admired much but smoked little, go for option #1. If smoking it routinely is the plan, go for option #2.
There are only two choices with that pipe: re-do the glue job that failed; or shorten the shank to a half inch past the base of the mortise and attach an entirely new piece of drilled wood to it, then shape the outside and fit an ss tube to the inside.
The latter would nuke the nomenclature, of course.
If the pipe is to be admired much but smoked little, go for option #1. If smoking it routinely is the plan, go for option #2.
Violin glue is normally hide glue - it is not permanent. The whole idea with the glue that a luthier would use is to be able to rake the instrument apart in the future for repair. That being said, hide glue is very tenacious and holds well until it is time to open the joint.Since I have you on the line…