I went through a time in my mid-thirties when I craved hot pepper adventures, starting with a Szechwan restaurant where I'd sample various levels of hot and spicy and mostly rose to the challenge. Over time, I decided gasping and weeping weren't the point, but I have continued to enjoy measured hot spice that enhances the flavor of the food, which means the level has to be low enough the give range to the other food flavors. At a Thai restaurant in Bethesda, Md., the waiter politely advised me not to eat the pepper in the clear soup that was there for flavoring but not direct consumption. I think my sensitivity has increased so now if the hot spice is a little over the top, I just can't enjoy the dish. At the right level, in Mexican, Chinese, Thai, and other cuisines, spice can be the grace note.