Different Kind of Stem Sticking

[tuold]

I hope someone can give me some advice on this problem. I have an old pipe I'm restoring. From what I can tell, the it's a screw-on metal ended stem that connects against a silver or nickle band on the shank. I think the two pieces are corroded together so the stem won't turn. The pipe in the freezer method didn't work.
Would something like Liquid Wrench or some other product free it? Maybe heating the joint area a bit? I'd hate to do something harmful, so I'm stopping work until I hear from the experts.
Thanks!

 

[petes03]

I wouldn't use anything like Liquid Wrench or WD40! I would try gently heating it at the joint. Just be careful not to let it get too hot.

 

[sablebrush52]

It's possible that tobacco residue has gotten into the join and is causing it to stick. You can try applying alcohol to the seam, a few drops at a time, for about 30 minutes. Let the alcohol seep into the seam and add more drops of alcohol. After 30 minutes of application try gently twisting the stem. It's a method that Ronnie B taught me.

 

[igloo]

Since you are restoring anyway .Place a towel in the sink and place pipe where the water can spigot be directed at the bowl turn on hot water and do something else for 10 min or so .The hot water will break up the carbon build up in the bowl and loosen the old glues and or tars . You should be able to separate the pieces at this point .if not repeat .The kicker is you will have to keep the briar and stem pieces separate for a week or so . That way the stem will not crack as the wood swells and contracts from drying .The hot water will also melt the wax on the pipe and bring all the oxidation to the top of the stem .This method will also remove ghosts and the cake will fall out in chunks .Best of luck .

 

[fadingdaylight]

Try heating everclear in the microwave, then use a syringe to inject it through the draft hole, like a flush or rinse.

 

[ejames]

I've come across several pipes where the aluminum threaded parts have corroded and basically welded themselves together. I've found that the best way to get them apart is to heat the stem and remove it from the tenon,leaving the tenon screwed in to the female threads in the mortise.

The tenon may be threaded into the stem itself so when you try to remove it turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew.

It may be pressed in,but to be on the safe side always turn it counter-clockwise when removing.

Once you have the stem off,you can apply a few drops of WD-40, won't hurt the pipe, or other penetrating oil, and let it sit for a few hours. Using padded pliers gently rock the tenon fitting back and forth,if it won't move add more WD and let it soak. Also heating and cooling several times may break it loose, I use a Bic lighter and heat for a few seconds,let it cool,heat again. Applying the WD when the fitting is warm may help.

Once you get it to move,even just a little,you got it whipped. Just rock it back and forth,gently,turning in small increments until it comes out.

Once out,clean well with alcohol to remove the WD.

 

[tuold]

Thank you all for your suggestions. All of them useful for the appropriate circumstance. I'm thinking ejames is onto the specific problem I'm facing here. The two metal parts are fused due to corrosion and water damage. I'll keep at it.
The pipe is otherwise in good condition despite the neglect. It's now had more alcohol and scrubbing than I could ever hope to have in my lifetime.

After sanding and restaining it seems this pipe will be worth the trouble. BTW, the stamping says, "Certified Purex/LHS/Imported Briar.

 

[ejames]

Looks like that old LHS is cleaning up nicely. The pipes I've had this problem with the most are the old Linkmans from the 30's and 40's and I believe is caused from years of not being used and not being cleaned when it was used.

Have also run into it on a KW or two and later model Grabows and others. They were used hard then shoved in a drawer or box somewhere for years.