Hey fred, I'm on the other side of the table, while I enjoy meers as works of art, I just don't like the way they smoke compared to briar. They always seem chalky to me and lack the deep flavor of briars.
Coloring Meerschaums
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I go through times when I think I only want to smoke meers. As long as you smoke slow, the dry smoke is great. The only reason I don't have more Meers, is because I like 9mm filters, and the only 9mm meers I've seen come from Germany, and I have never ordered anything abroad. I would love another though.
I should be getting my fist Meer in Monday. I never cared for the look of a white pipe but it started to appeal to me more recently. I think I'm going to have to work my way up to face and animal sculptures, so for now I'll stick with the smooth or lightly carved meers.
It's quite possible Hauntedmyst that you've been smoking low grade Block or pressed
Block, from what you've described. A clean Meerschaum Pipe, cut from either high grade Turkish Block or African Block, from the Laxly mines do not taste like chalk. They do provide a clarity of smoke not found in Briar, as the stone doesn't burn and requires no cake to protect the Block, so you wind up smoking the tobacco. Cake is necessary for the preservation of the Briar and it contributes to the taste of whatever is incinerated in it. The first few smokes in a new Meerschaum will taste of the Beeswax and the solvents used in the Block's preparation, but after that the Pipe will deliver increasingly better smokes, as long as it is kept clean. Some prefer not to clean the Pipe routinely, and that is their choice. I keep these Pipes clean to provide the clarity of smoke in the blends I enjoy and to prevent any taste carryover from one blend to the next, so a Pipe never needs to be dedicated to a blend. I know that I'm in the minority, even in the Pipe community, in my preference for Meerschaums.
Bear in mind that the majority of Pipe smokers prefer budget Pipes, which they smoke with little to no maintenance. When the Pipe clogs up to the point that it cannot be smoked any further, they toss it and go and get another one. Let's face it, someone has to be buying the 2-3 million Pipes that Grabow manufactures yearly. The Meerschaum equivalent to this are the floods of low grade Block Pipes, such as the ones most commonly found on e-bay, that are made from the cheapest materials possible and may be pressed Block, low grade Block, clay, plaster of Paris or even plastic coated with Meerschaum dust. Bargain hunters are the fodder of ripoff artists. Counterfeit would have no market save for the existence of true coin. Stick to the established Sellers, whose reputation means more to them than any Pipe sale. If you have questions, ask them before you put down the coin. If I cannot establish dialogue with the Seller, then I don't bid. The quality of Meerschaum Block is the first and most important aspect of any Meerschaum purchase. The rest doesn't matter if the Block is of poor quality. I buy Pipes to smoke. I need to know the dimensions, the weight and the quality of the bit and bit-to-shank connector before I seriously consider parting with the coin. After years of acquiring and smoking Meerschaums, I've learned that it's best to determine the character of the Seller. A source of quality Meerschaums will be happy to entertain questions from a prospective Buyer. A ripoff artist will be evasive and become painfully obvious as either a sham or someone with little to no knowledge of his/her product. The payoff is all about the Pipes, that provide pleasurable experience to the eye and the smoking performance.
Block, from what you've described. A clean Meerschaum Pipe, cut from either high grade Turkish Block or African Block, from the Laxly mines do not taste like chalk. They do provide a clarity of smoke not found in Briar, as the stone doesn't burn and requires no cake to protect the Block, so you wind up smoking the tobacco. Cake is necessary for the preservation of the Briar and it contributes to the taste of whatever is incinerated in it. The first few smokes in a new Meerschaum will taste of the Beeswax and the solvents used in the Block's preparation, but after that the Pipe will deliver increasingly better smokes, as long as it is kept clean. Some prefer not to clean the Pipe routinely, and that is their choice. I keep these Pipes clean to provide the clarity of smoke in the blends I enjoy and to prevent any taste carryover from one blend to the next, so a Pipe never needs to be dedicated to a blend. I know that I'm in the minority, even in the Pipe community, in my preference for Meerschaums.
Bear in mind that the majority of Pipe smokers prefer budget Pipes, which they smoke with little to no maintenance. When the Pipe clogs up to the point that it cannot be smoked any further, they toss it and go and get another one. Let's face it, someone has to be buying the 2-3 million Pipes that Grabow manufactures yearly. The Meerschaum equivalent to this are the floods of low grade Block Pipes, such as the ones most commonly found on e-bay, that are made from the cheapest materials possible and may be pressed Block, low grade Block, clay, plaster of Paris or even plastic coated with Meerschaum dust. Bargain hunters are the fodder of ripoff artists. Counterfeit would have no market save for the existence of true coin. Stick to the established Sellers, whose reputation means more to them than any Pipe sale. If you have questions, ask them before you put down the coin. If I cannot establish dialogue with the Seller, then I don't bid. The quality of Meerschaum Block is the first and most important aspect of any Meerschaum purchase. The rest doesn't matter if the Block is of poor quality. I buy Pipes to smoke. I need to know the dimensions, the weight and the quality of the bit and bit-to-shank connector before I seriously consider parting with the coin. After years of acquiring and smoking Meerschaums, I've learned that it's best to determine the character of the Seller. A source of quality Meerschaums will be happy to entertain questions from a prospective Buyer. A ripoff artist will be evasive and become painfully obvious as either a sham or someone with little to no knowledge of his/her product. The payoff is all about the Pipes, that provide pleasurable experience to the eye and the smoking performance.
Before I get mine in... Do you have any advice in how to properly clean the pipe and or how to take care of it? Do you use some kind of solvent or alcohol to clean it or just wipe and scrap it off?
Yes, I will clean the Pipe before smoking it. My first thought is that this came from the other side of the world, so cleaning is a good idea. The better reason is that there will be a lot of milling dust in the bit and the Block. First, disassemble the Pipe, taking the bit off and unscrewing the tenon from the bit, unless it's a molded tenon & bit such as is used by IMP and Baki. A shank brush with Everclear on it will take a lot of the dust out of the shank, followed by a Pipe cleaner to dry it a bit. Double the Pipe cleaner over, dip the tip in Everclear and swab out the bowl's interior, without getting any on the Pipe's exterior and follow this up by swabbing it again with a paper towel. Clean the bit and the tenon in the same way. Assemble the Pipe and blow whatever free dust remains out, which shouldn't be a lot. Now it's time to fire up. Repeat the same cleaning routine after a smoke, allowing the Pipe to cool down first. As cake starts to form, I use a sharp, blunt tipped knife to scrape it off, prior to using the Everclear inside the bowl again. If you keep the Pipe clean, it will have little to no taste carryover from one blend to the next. The first few smokes will taste like Beeswax, but once that burns off, the Pipe will deliver quality smokes.
Fred, sorry it took me so long to respond.
There are a few different reasons why I don't really like to smoke meers. The ones that I really like (large carved pipes) seem to heavy for me.
I used to own a large CAO Meerschaum. I owned it for about 4 years and have only smoked it about a dozen or so times. I gifted it to Kevin because he wanted to get a nice meer.
I do have a more inexpensive no-name meer that is supposed to be block meerschaum and I have tried smoking it off and on for a few years now. I don't like it much at all and when it gets warm from smoking, it produces a strange smell that I don't like to smell while I am trying to enjoy a pipe. The only way that I can explain the smell is; it reminds me of the medicine smell that you get from an emergency room or doctors office. I put that one back in it's case and don't smoke it anymore.
I have another meer that I will smoke occasionally. It is an AND mini-churchwarden that I received as a gift from a friend. That one smokes better than the inexpensive no-name and doesn't have that strange smell either. But I still prefer the way that a briar pipe smokes. I guess that I am just a briar pipe guy.
There are a few different reasons why I don't really like to smoke meers. The ones that I really like (large carved pipes) seem to heavy for me.
I used to own a large CAO Meerschaum. I owned it for about 4 years and have only smoked it about a dozen or so times. I gifted it to Kevin because he wanted to get a nice meer.
I do have a more inexpensive no-name meer that is supposed to be block meerschaum and I have tried smoking it off and on for a few years now. I don't like it much at all and when it gets warm from smoking, it produces a strange smell that I don't like to smell while I am trying to enjoy a pipe. The only way that I can explain the smell is; it reminds me of the medicine smell that you get from an emergency room or doctors office. I put that one back in it's case and don't smoke it anymore.
I have another meer that I will smoke occasionally. It is an AND mini-churchwarden that I received as a gift from a friend. That one smokes better than the inexpensive no-name and doesn't have that strange smell either. But I still prefer the way that a briar pipe smokes. I guess that I am just a briar pipe guy.
If this thread is still going when I get home next week, I'll take a picture of the cool eagle claw meer Bob gave me. I actually smoked it the night before we left on out trip.
Meerschaum Pipes are not for everyone Bob, which is a fact that I've understood for years. One thing about the NoName Meerschaum you wrote about... The smell you describe isn't something that will occur in high grade Turkish Block or African Block for that matter. Yes, a number of Meerschaums are large, but Baki and IMP make Pipes in more conventional shapes and sizes, and good Block will actually weigh less than high end Briar. Heavy Meerschaum is frequently associated with pressed Block, or the presence of aggregate in Block, which is referred to as sandstone by the Carvers. Infrequently, dense high grade Block will show up in a few Pipes. It's still good, as the density is not due to impurities and smokes the same as the lighter Block. After all of that, I have to agree with Gary Shrier's position in Confessions of a Pipeman, that Briar is King in the Pipe world, as simply more people smoke them than any other type. My own transition to Meerschaum took years and puts me in a small circle of Pipesters. It's all about personal preference. The discussion of which is better has been going on for 300 years, and to me it really makes no sense. By trying to convince others that one is better somehow diminishes both. Pipe smoking is not competition, but people being what they are..., some cannot accept that not everyone feels the same way that they do, or smokes the same blends, or prefers Briar..., ad nauseam. I prefer to listen to the positive things that people say, and leave the negatives alone. It's all about choice, so it is to everyone's advantage to know what the choices are.
I have 5. Two gourd Calabashes an inexpensive claw & egg and a Sherlock & Watson miniature set. My favorites are the Sherlock and Watson. I'll smoke some heavy latakia in them because it just seems to suit them. However; I don't smoke them enough to encourage any real color change. Their hats are beginning to turn a washed out pinkish color.
I have had them for many years:
My question would be directed to Fred:
When you smoke your meers, do you keep the bowl itself clean enough to actually be white?
If so or not, what would you say encourages the migration of the oils that color the block the most?
Sorry about the quality of the photo, it was taken with my cell phone.
However; the color is spot on.
I have had them for many years:
My question would be directed to Fred:
When you smoke your meers, do you keep the bowl itself clean enough to actually be white?
If so or not, what would you say encourages the migration of the oils that color the block the most?
Sorry about the quality of the photo, it was taken with my cell phone.
However; the color is spot on.
Fred, I agree with you 110% about it making no sense for people to bicker and try to convince others about what type of pipe is best to smoke. The best pipe for someone to smoke is whatever pipe that that person enjoys smoking.
Enjoyment is all that matters, nothing else. It doesn't matter what type of pipe or tobacco is being smoked, if there is no enjoyment, what is the point?
I just wished that I did enjoy smoking meers more, because I love the way that they look after they have been smoked a lot.
Nice Holmes & Watson set Lawrence!
Enjoyment is all that matters, nothing else. It doesn't matter what type of pipe or tobacco is being smoked, if there is no enjoyment, what is the point?
I just wished that I did enjoy smoking meers more, because I love the way that they look after they have been smoked a lot.
Nice Holmes & Watson set Lawrence!
Thank you Bob,
They aren't in Fred's league, (which are beautiful by the way)(not jealousy but admiration)
I enjoy both but I smoke my briars the most.
My meerschaums are for Chess, and reading, and (in the case of the set) just for the hell of it.
They aren't in Fred's league, (which are beautiful by the way)(not jealousy but admiration)
I enjoy both but I smoke my briars the most.
My meerschaums are for Chess, and reading, and (in the case of the set) just for the hell of it.
Thanks guys, but I should point out that I've been at this for years... It's always the art that catches the eye, but I still smoke the $12 NoName I purchased in '69, which has no artistic merit whatsoever. As for,
manner, but at some point, the wax evaporates. This process may account for wax loss, but certainly some will also be lost to friction on the Pipe's surface. I've not taken any additives that the Carver may choose to mix in with the wax or the porosity of the Block into account. Smoke from the tobacco smoking is giving the brown color, that is
certainly a factor. The heat and the moisture of the tobacco are also involved. The Pipe's shank usually starts to color first, as it is the site of major condensation via cooling, of the tobacco being smoked. I agree that the wax protects the outer surface of the Pipe, which is not to say that it doesn't migrate into the Block. As I understand it, the Carver blocks off the Pipe's draft & the bowl, so that the wax does not get into the Pipe, but this is done to avoid having the first few smokes
taste like burning wax. I also agree with you about the wax not being the coloring agent for the Block, but instead, it serves to wick the byproducts of the smoke along it's migration routes. The point that has me stumped, is the quick color shown by waxing Pipes that have not been rewaxed, but have been smoked. This suggests that some part (or all) of the nicotine, tars & moisture are already in the Block from smoking, but do not display this coloring as fast, if left without rewaxing. Even if the wax's role is to wick and protect, how does it contribute to the Pipe's color. Your idea of the wax serving to seal the Block from loss of these smoke byproducts
may be a demonstration of this idea. It is an interesting puzzle. I've been turning this bit of a puzzle over in my mind, as it seems that it will not let me rest. Perhaps the wax, the heat and the burning tobaccos also interact chemically. This would explain how rewaxing a Pipe, that has been smoked for a long period of time, will produce coloring with a rapid permanence more dramatically than a Pipe that has been smoked less that has been rewaxed. It is also quite possible that the Meerschaum itself plays a part in this chemical interaction. I suspect that this has all been thought of before, and tested by Carvers. Such knowledge would enable a Carver's
work to stand apart from the competition, and not likely to be widely known,
as with anything in the Meerschaum trades. So much is lost to us in the guarded history of the Carver's art. What is unclear, at least to me is whether the
wax serves as the vehicle for the volatiles that color the Pipe, or if it is the remains of both the wax and the volatiles as a combination that provide the color.
Whether the wax provides migration routes and serves as a vehicle for the volatiles
that result in color, or the combination of the wax and volatiles interacts with
the lattice structure of the Meerschaum is a good question, for which I have no
answer. It's also unclear how long the wax remains in the Block and whether
or not it's constituents ever fully pass from the Block. Indeed, as the Block nears
saturation, it will seep as it's smoked, to the point where I've observed older
Pipes requiring a cloth to wipe the Pipe while it's being smoked. It's a good
question as to what is actually left behind in the Block to provide the color, which
itself can range from flamingo pink to black. Another factor to consider is the character of the Meerschaum lattice structure - which is itself imbued with trace minerals, which can be seen as hues of red or green. Certainly, the more porous the Block, the more wax it can absorb and the more rapidly it can color. Prior to waxing, if the Pipe is held up to the light, the higher grades will be almost transparent, like looking at a tent at night, that is lit from within, infrequently exhibiting light red or green hues of color. The issue of coloring is certainly pleasing to observe and becomes surprisingly complex when attempting to explain. Heat drives the process and just as it serves to color, it can serve to bleed the color from a Pipe, as evidenced by reports of Pipes turning a mottled grey when smoked in temperatures below 32 deg Fahrenheit.
I keep the bowl free of cake, but it still shows the char from the heat. Sometimes, I can see a flash of white, but it gets charred with the next smoke. The topic of coloration is one that has been discussed for centuries. No one really knows, but there are a number of theories. Here are some thoughts that I've pondered, in my own concept of flow dynamics in Meerschaum coloration. Sepiolite, formerly known as Meerschaum (sea froth), is a non-swelling, lightweight, porous clay with a large specific surface area. Unlike other clays, the individual particles of sepiolite have a needle-like morphology. The high surface area and porosity, as well as the unusual particle shape of this clay account for its outstanding absorption capacity and colloidal properties that make it a valuable material for a wide range of applications. The high surface area and porosity of sepiolite account for the remarkable adsorptive and absorptive properties of this clay. It adsorbs vapours and odours and can absorb approximately its own weight of water and other liquids. Sepiolite is a non-swelling clay and its granules do not desintegrate even when saturated with liquids. These particles are arranged forming loosely packed and porous aggregates with an extensive capillary network which explains the high porosity of sepiolite and its light weight because of the large void space. I've been giving some thought to the issues of flow dynamics as they relate to Meerschaum coloring. With little else but the most rudimentary exposure to scientific thought on flow principles long ago, my grasp of this concept is weak. Still, it seems a topic of interest to both myself and others. I offer these thoughts in the hopes that others will take some interest. The combination of burning tobacco and beeswax cause Meerschaums to color over time. OK, so what's going on? It seems that heat will cause the wax to migrate into the Block. Continued heating/cooling cycles will cause the wax to migrate in a progressive manner, but at some point, the wax evaporates. This process works like a wick to the byproducts of tobacco combustion and draws them into the Block, where they accumulate, in a progressive result of color, that changes character over time. If I understand it, this is the process that results in the patina that Meerschaum smokers prize. Is this what's going on? Do I have a cogent theory in this line of thought? An interesting observation to add to this is that Meerschaums that have been smoked for long periods of time, without rewaxing, may not demonstrate a well developed patina. When such a Pipe is rewaxed, it will quickly display colors. Like all coloring in Meerschaums, the repetition of rewaxing in concert with smoking the Pipe, will eventually produce coloring that does not quickly fade. I believe that I've addressed the path of wax dissipation. Continued heating/cooling cycles will cause the wax to migrate in a progressive
manner, but at some point, the wax evaporates. This process may account for wax loss, but certainly some will also be lost to friction on the Pipe's surface. I've not taken any additives that the Carver may choose to mix in with the wax or the porosity of the Block into account. Smoke from the tobacco smoking is giving the brown color, that is
certainly a factor. The heat and the moisture of the tobacco are also involved. The Pipe's shank usually starts to color first, as it is the site of major condensation via cooling, of the tobacco being smoked. I agree that the wax protects the outer surface of the Pipe, which is not to say that it doesn't migrate into the Block. As I understand it, the Carver blocks off the Pipe's draft & the bowl, so that the wax does not get into the Pipe, but this is done to avoid having the first few smokes
taste like burning wax. I also agree with you about the wax not being the coloring agent for the Block, but instead, it serves to wick the byproducts of the smoke along it's migration routes. The point that has me stumped, is the quick color shown by waxing Pipes that have not been rewaxed, but have been smoked. This suggests that some part (or all) of the nicotine, tars & moisture are already in the Block from smoking, but do not display this coloring as fast, if left without rewaxing. Even if the wax's role is to wick and protect, how does it contribute to the Pipe's color. Your idea of the wax serving to seal the Block from loss of these smoke byproducts
may be a demonstration of this idea. It is an interesting puzzle. I've been turning this bit of a puzzle over in my mind, as it seems that it will not let me rest. Perhaps the wax, the heat and the burning tobaccos also interact chemically. This would explain how rewaxing a Pipe, that has been smoked for a long period of time, will produce coloring with a rapid permanence more dramatically than a Pipe that has been smoked less that has been rewaxed. It is also quite possible that the Meerschaum itself plays a part in this chemical interaction. I suspect that this has all been thought of before, and tested by Carvers. Such knowledge would enable a Carver's
work to stand apart from the competition, and not likely to be widely known,
as with anything in the Meerschaum trades. So much is lost to us in the guarded history of the Carver's art. What is unclear, at least to me is whether the
wax serves as the vehicle for the volatiles that color the Pipe, or if it is the remains of both the wax and the volatiles as a combination that provide the color.
Whether the wax provides migration routes and serves as a vehicle for the volatiles
that result in color, or the combination of the wax and volatiles interacts with
the lattice structure of the Meerschaum is a good question, for which I have no
answer. It's also unclear how long the wax remains in the Block and whether
or not it's constituents ever fully pass from the Block. Indeed, as the Block nears
saturation, it will seep as it's smoked, to the point where I've observed older
Pipes requiring a cloth to wipe the Pipe while it's being smoked. It's a good
question as to what is actually left behind in the Block to provide the color, which
itself can range from flamingo pink to black. Another factor to consider is the character of the Meerschaum lattice structure - which is itself imbued with trace minerals, which can be seen as hues of red or green. Certainly, the more porous the Block, the more wax it can absorb and the more rapidly it can color. Prior to waxing, if the Pipe is held up to the light, the higher grades will be almost transparent, like looking at a tent at night, that is lit from within, infrequently exhibiting light red or green hues of color. The issue of coloring is certainly pleasing to observe and becomes surprisingly complex when attempting to explain. Heat drives the process and just as it serves to color, it can serve to bleed the color from a Pipe, as evidenced by reports of Pipes turning a mottled grey when smoked in temperatures below 32 deg Fahrenheit.
So....
I probably need to wax my pipes.
That being said, I am assuming that the pipes should be warm when the beeswax is applied.
Now... should I use a soft clean cloth impregnated with the wax as opposed to direct application?
I probably need to wax my pipes.
That being said, I am assuming that the pipes should be warm when the beeswax is applied.
Now... should I use a soft clean cloth impregnated with the wax as opposed to direct application?
Its nice to have a member who can tell us all we need to know about meerschaum pipes. Nice to see a new perspective brought in.
The most convenient method of Beeswax application is something I learned from the late Sailorman Jack. Using refined white Beeswax is important, as lesser grades do not have the lower melting point. As the Pipe is smoked, rub the Beeswax on the Pipe, making use of the heat of the smoke to melt the wax. What doesn't get absorbed by the Block should be wiped off using a clean, white cotton cloth and it's easier if you do it when the Pipe is still warm. This works best on smooth finished Pipes, Intricate Figurals can be waxed using this method, but take care not to overdo it on the application, as the buffing can become a real chore with these Pipes. For Lattice finishes, the Beeswax that is left in the little holes, that doesn't get absorbed are best removed with a toothpick, or they will just sit there and get hard. A good point to remember is to go easy on the Beeswax application, using the observation of the Block's propensity to absorb the wax. Sometimes this can be tricky and when the Pipe cools, there may be a bit of surface that feels rough to the touch. This happens when the Beeswax migrates into the Block and leaves the Pipe's surface relatively bare. Rubbing a bit of Beeswax on this spot, followed by hand buffing will protect the Block's surface, which is an important function of the wax. It's a good idea to remember that while the Block is absorbing the Beeswax, it will also absorb whatever is on your hands, so use the cloth to handle the Pipe during the application. There are other methods, but this is the most convenient and the least messy. In a nutshell, the Beeswax migrates in the Block and serves to bring the volatiles of the smoke to serve as the patina that Meerschaum smokers value so highly. This migration is heat dependent and moves in both directions within the Block accordingly.
Yes, Cortezattic. You can find it in fabric stores, as quilters use it to give their threads strength. What I've been doing more recently is getting it on e-bay, in granule form and melting it into an empty Solani 633 tin. After it cools, I carve out triangles of it from the tin. I'd advise keeping the thickness between 1/4"-3/8", as the thin triangles are easier to get into tight spots with. It's also cheaper this way than getting it from a fabric store and you can even get cosmetic grade Beeswax that is refined without the use of bleach.
Thanks Fred.
Bob's noname meer:
Bob's noname meer:
I don't know how much effort you want to expend to rescue that pipe, but you can try by disassembling it and putting it in the freezer for a couple of days -- box and everything. That frequently removes odors in other things, and it might work on the pipe. Also, don't forget Walker's Ozone treatment.
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