I would send an e-mail to Peterson and ask them how best to clean it. Laudisi Customer service is excellent and the advice will probably from the guy on the factory floor who finishes them !I’ve got a lovely Peterson Aran, rusticated & similar to those ‘corallo di mari’ from savinelli.
Natural, virgin like finish. Starting to look a bit dirty & tired now, so she is.
I expect the solution would be wax & a high speed buffer. I haven’t got a buffer so any tips for the ‘hands only’ man?
I’ve resisted the temptation to rag on some olive oil, thinking it might worsen the appearance after drying. So far, just cleaned the pipe in soapy water with a soft toothbrush. Any tips or recommendations for a certain oil or polish?
Cheers!
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Yes, the very same & still going strongSimon
Is that the one from me?
If so I cleaned it with fairy liquid and a soft toothbrush (babies) and waxed with Halcyon wax when I got it.If not take no notice
I advocate that you don’t…..unless of course You’re a Freemason or a Michael Jackson impersonator. LolI advocate wearing gloves when smoking
yepYes, the very same & still going strong
Fairy liquid eh? I’ll have to pop round & see Nanette Newman when she’s doing the dishes. Lol
To be fair, it’s not that dirty or tarnished even. Just some white bits embedded in the crevasses (probably your halcyon wax).
I was thinking of ragging on some linseed oil after cleaning it. After seeing what could happen though, I’ll wait until next time I see Mike Billington (he’ll know what’s best).
I did reshape the stem though. If you remember it had a severe ‘dog leg’ bend to it before. Perfectly comfortable but I never liked the look of it. Think it looks better now.
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Hello George,Wire brush bristles are sharp only on their ends while the sides are smooth.
Meaning, if a wire brush is too stiff and/or used with too much pressure, the bristles will cut wire-width channels wherever they track between high(er) spots. Like water running down a hill.
If brass, they will shed metal as well, discoloring the wood.
Much better is an appropriate grit 3M bristle brush at the proper speed to "sand" non-smooth finishes like Corallo and Vergin (not a typo -- Castello spells it with an "e" ).
Takes a bit of experimentation/practice, but works like a champ.
PS --- As long as we're talking refurbing raw, unwaxed, un-sealed stummels, do NOT do any sort of salt & alcohol or charcoal & alcohol chamber soak to them. The alcohol CAN migrate/transfer dissolved tars & Nasty Black Stuff to the outer surface of the pipe. It doesn't happen every time, in fact it doesn't happen often, but it if it does getting it looking right again is NOT easy. Best to simply not go there.
Which 3M bristle brushes do you recommend? I see a variety of colours and shapes on their site. Would you use the round ones by hand or all on a rotary tool?Wire brush bristles are sharp only on their ends while the sides are smooth.
Meaning, if a wire brush is too stiff and/or used with too much pressure, the bristles will cut wire-width channels wherever they track between high(er) spots. Like water running down a hill.
If brass, they will shed metal as well, discoloring the wood.
Much better is an appropriate grit 3M bristle brush at the proper speed to "sand" non-smooth finishes like Corallo and Vergin (not a typo -- Castello spells it with an "e" ).
Takes a bit of experimentation/practice, but works like a champ.
PS --- As long as we're talking refurbing raw, unwaxed, un-sealed stummels, do NOT do any sort of salt & alcohol or charcoal & alcohol chamber soak to them. The alcohol CAN migrate/transfer dissolved tars & Nasty Black Stuff to the outer surface of the pipe. It doesn't happen every time, in fact it doesn't happen often, but it if it does getting it looking right again is NOT easy. Best to simply not go there.