Thank you for posting. I've gone way beyond the experimental stage, and have become positively lax in my applying cleaning procedures. But it works after several years.
Clean Your Briar Pipes the "New Way".
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I wonder If it advisable to clean mortise/shank with alcohol dipped pipe cleaner after each another use,?
I only use alcohol to clean the shank and stem every month or so. I think that too much cleaning with alcohol deprives the wood of the tars and oils that make a pipe the well-seasoned, musty smoker whose taste I enjoy.
Not in my book. There's no need to use alcohol* at all, unless doing a de-ghosting run with salt and hi-proof alcohol.
* in the pipe. Alcohol is for internal consumption....
Yes, Michael, every few cleanings I also clean the mortise.
Have you further experience with this method on estates?
I offered up a sacrificial pipe (Adsorba) to the hot water cleaning yesterday. It did dull the finish but then I expected it too, the finish really isn’t of high quality to begin with. The inside cleaned fairly well.
So I tried it on a Lorenzo today. No issues with the finish, and the pipe certainly smells fresher. I keep a clean pipe as it is but some stuff still came out.
I think it’s a workable solution, will keep doing it every once in a while.
So I tried it on a Lorenzo today. No issues with the finish, and the pipe certainly smells fresher. I keep a clean pipe as it is but some stuff still came out.
I think it’s a workable solution, will keep doing it every once in a while.
Good, skaap! Always good to be cautious. I don't recommend this for either cobs or $12,000 jeweled or enameled Dunhills!
There's not a pipe in my pile that doesn't get this treatement, a bunch of Barlings, some Dunnies, Castello, Sav, GBD, etc. and some great artisan carvers.
There's not a pipe in my pile that doesn't get this treatement, a bunch of Barlings, some Dunnies, Castello, Sav, GBD, etc. and some great artisan carvers.
We're supposed to CLEAN these things? :crazy:
One of the things I've learned dealing with old surplus rifles, more wear and damage is done by cleaning than firing, in most cases. I imagine some similar results occur in the pipe world.
I clean when function demands it and less for looks. I also like to use the least aggressive option that gets the job done, so I've been following this thread with much interest.
Today, I decided that "My Precious" needed attention. My most used pipe, a Viking Classic 1/16 bent Dublin, my champion flake smoker, has been slowly building a lopsided cake (more on the stem side than the front), has accrued a gunky rim coating (on the same side) and has had some airway occlusions.
This pipe was new in July. In August, I discovered its miraculous handling of the flakes. Since then, it has been ridden like a rented scooter. I give it a pipe cleaner or two after each use. I generally wipe the bowl, either with a napkin or pipe cleaner, but the sticky buildup has settled in, anyway. I think I simply overuse it.
So, I decided to mount an assault. My tactical loadout included one British Buttner reamer, BJ Long's 6.5" soft and bristled cleaners, cotton swabs, shank brush, Everclear and (literally) the kitchen sink.
In this order, I proceeded.
Reamed the chamber, a conical one, diligently working to remove cake from one side without exposing briar on the other.
Ran much hot water through both briar and stem.
Mopped inside of stem with alcohol dipped cleaner, then water dipped, then dry.
Scrubbed mortise with alcohol dipped swabs. (much goo in here)
Alternated bristled cleaner and shank brush, both with Everclear, through briar airway.
Rinsed again with hot water.
Dried exterior with towel.
Grabbed wrong cotton swab while cleaning rim, removed some finish with alcohol. :evil:
Dried chamber with swabs.
Reassembled pipe. Cleaned up mess. Dried chamber again with paper napkin.
Loaded with OGS. Applied heat. Experienced off taste for 15 seconds, then settled in to a happy smoke.
In conclusion, I believe that both water and alcohol have a place in the process. I also believe I need to find another great flake burner so I can give this poor bastard a break every so often...
One of the things I've learned dealing with old surplus rifles, more wear and damage is done by cleaning than firing, in most cases. I imagine some similar results occur in the pipe world.
I clean when function demands it and less for looks. I also like to use the least aggressive option that gets the job done, so I've been following this thread with much interest.
Today, I decided that "My Precious" needed attention. My most used pipe, a Viking Classic 1/16 bent Dublin, my champion flake smoker, has been slowly building a lopsided cake (more on the stem side than the front), has accrued a gunky rim coating (on the same side) and has had some airway occlusions.
This pipe was new in July. In August, I discovered its miraculous handling of the flakes. Since then, it has been ridden like a rented scooter. I give it a pipe cleaner or two after each use. I generally wipe the bowl, either with a napkin or pipe cleaner, but the sticky buildup has settled in, anyway. I think I simply overuse it.
So, I decided to mount an assault. My tactical loadout included one British Buttner reamer, BJ Long's 6.5" soft and bristled cleaners, cotton swabs, shank brush, Everclear and (literally) the kitchen sink.
In this order, I proceeded.
Reamed the chamber, a conical one, diligently working to remove cake from one side without exposing briar on the other.
Ran much hot water through both briar and stem.
Mopped inside of stem with alcohol dipped cleaner, then water dipped, then dry.
Scrubbed mortise with alcohol dipped swabs. (much goo in here)
Alternated bristled cleaner and shank brush, both with Everclear, through briar airway.
Rinsed again with hot water.
Dried exterior with towel.
Grabbed wrong cotton swab while cleaning rim, removed some finish with alcohol. :evil:
Dried chamber with swabs.
Reassembled pipe. Cleaned up mess. Dried chamber again with paper napkin.
Loaded with OGS. Applied heat. Experienced off taste for 15 seconds, then settled in to a happy smoke.
In conclusion, I believe that both water and alcohol have a place in the process. I also believe I need to find another great flake burner so I can give this poor bastard a break every so often...
I use running water to clean both my clay and briar pipes. However, while for the clay pipes I run hot water while they are still warm, for the briar pipes I wait the pipe cools down. I agree that the sooner you do the better it is to clean the gunk but I am afraid that a hot briar with running hot water could expand/shrink and cracks. Am I too concerned with this?
Love following this thread. Question: I have an older Grabow with a threaded stinger......I would think water flushing would eventually lead to the metal rusting??
So this technique only would apply to wood and plastic bits?
So this technique only would apply to wood and plastic bits?
Gents: Great to have more looking in on this.
As to Alex: No problem at all to run hot to hot. Anecdotally, I've dropped two pipes into a swimming pool (ca. 75º F) whilst lit, with no adverse effect, except it kinda ruins what was a good smoke! Not recommended, but if they survive that, a very warm (no ember going) pipe with hot water will be just fine. As will a cold pipe with hot water.
Wbradk: Many report that water does better, and doesn't have a deleterious effect as alcohol may do. Only thing is try it yourself and decide! And I am not suggesting that for serious de-ghosting that salt and alcohol for several days isn't necessary in some cases.
Piano man: More moisture is introduced through the airway by smoking than is with a water flush. Reason is that hot moisture, with a far longer exposure, occurs naturally while smoking, so the tenon gets bathed in it. If you remove the stem, I'd wipe the stinger, though I don't think that's necessary.
As to Alex: No problem at all to run hot to hot. Anecdotally, I've dropped two pipes into a swimming pool (ca. 75º F) whilst lit, with no adverse effect, except it kinda ruins what was a good smoke! Not recommended, but if they survive that, a very warm (no ember going) pipe with hot water will be just fine. As will a cold pipe with hot water.
Wbradk: Many report that water does better, and doesn't have a deleterious effect as alcohol may do. Only thing is try it yourself and decide! And I am not suggesting that for serious de-ghosting that salt and alcohol for several days isn't necessary in some cases.
Piano man: More moisture is introduced through the airway by smoking than is with a water flush. Reason is that hot moisture, with a far longer exposure, occurs naturally while smoking, so the tenon gets bathed in it. If you remove the stem, I'd wipe the stinger, though I don't think that's necessary.
Someone suggested that i use a magic eraser to clean the oxidation off of a vulcinite stem is this safe
Also the pipe i just got has a stinger and i find that i am getting alot of guggling while i am smoking ...is this because of the stinger and if so can i remove it?
A bit off topic, but yes, lots of ways to remove oxidation.
Gurgling doesn't have to happen with a stinger, and yes, it can be removed. Best post a new thread stating what the pipe is, and those with experience with that type may be able to advise the best way to do it. Only stingers I've removed are by pulling, or un-screwing, or a hacksaw.
Gurgling doesn't have to happen with a stinger, and yes, it can be removed. Best post a new thread stating what the pipe is, and those with experience with that type may be able to advise the best way to do it. Only stingers I've removed are by pulling, or un-screwing, or a hacksaw.
I saw this and decided to give it a shot on one of my newer Kaywoodies for a week. I have been smoking about three bowls a day in it, and following with a hot water flush, and a pipe cleaner to dry out the airway. I haven't noticed any (deleterious or otherwise) effects on the smoking dynamics of the pipe. To determine just how "clean" it was staying, I rinsed it this morning and followed it with a cleaner as usual. I then followed it up with an alcohol dipped cleaner, and found that the airway was still quite dirty. It took 5 alcohol dipped cleaners and a cotton swab to the shank to get it to my usual standard.
Here's the pipe in question, first pipe cleaner is immediately after rinse. Second is alcohol. Swab is what came out of the shank.
What I discovered with this experiment, is not that water cleans just as good as alcohol. Clearly, at least to me, it does not. But that's not to say it's abject failure, as I learned that my pipe doesn't actually need to be sparkling clean all the time for me to enjoy it. In fact, I found that with a bit of fouling(seasoning!), the flavor seemed to be consistently richer.
One other thing of note - I tried rinsing a pipe that I usually smoke Burley blends in that had an existing bit of cake in it(maybe 1/16th). The cake softened and became tacky, and I ended up with bits of paper towel stuck inside all over the bowl. Not the most fun to clean out either.
Here's the pipe in question, first pipe cleaner is immediately after rinse. Second is alcohol. Swab is what came out of the shank.
What I discovered with this experiment, is not that water cleans just as good as alcohol. Clearly, at least to me, it does not. But that's not to say it's abject failure, as I learned that my pipe doesn't actually need to be sparkling clean all the time for me to enjoy it. In fact, I found that with a bit of fouling(seasoning!), the flavor seemed to be consistently richer.
One other thing of note - I tried rinsing a pipe that I usually smoke Burley blends in that had an existing bit of cake in it(maybe 1/16th). The cake softened and became tacky, and I ended up with bits of paper towel stuck inside all over the bowl. Not the most fun to clean out either.
Very interesting! Especially about the cake softening. I don't smoke burleys, but have read they cake fast- and I guess on the soft side. After a rinse through, I may or may not paper towel dry the chamber. But have had no bits of (hard) cake come off nor towel sticking to the walls.
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