Dropped my unknown manufacturer English briar estate pipe right on the stem and it snapped at the tendon. Las Vegas, NV really lacks anything that I've seen in terms of pipe repair. The bowl itself is fine (and I'm too worried about damaging it to attempt to extract the tendon myself). Any ideas on how I start to address repairs?
Broken Tenon
- Thread starter drjones013
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You can remove the TENNON by using a screw a little bigger than the draft hole. Twist it in by hand then you can pull it out. Depending on the break it may be repairable. Or you can send it to Tim West or Walker Briar Works for a replacement tennon.
That's a really interesting idea. Did a google search and found him off of 215 and Charleston. I'm liking the cheapy that I bought in the meantime but am really eager to smoke out of my old briar. I think I'll try and stop by his shop when I'm finished with my term paper....
@tokerpipes
The tennon (thanks for the correction!) is an *almost* clean break-- I suspect that if I can pull it out without damaging the bowl I can use an epoxy?
The tennon (thanks for the correction!) is an *almost* clean break-- I suspect that if I can pull it out without damaging the bowl I can use an epoxy?
I'm a dual history/anthropology major at UNLV (University Las Vegas, NV). I'm still debating whether or not I'll go onto my doctorate; right now I'm undergrad.
If its a clean break It should be easy to repair your self with a little patience. use pipe cleaners to keep anything from getting in the draft hole and use epoxy to join the pieces. then use a fine grit sand paper to remove the extra seapage of epoxy. I have used super glue also as it normally doesnt get too hot on the tennon it should be ok.
And thanks for the correction!
So I use a screw, pull it out, and use epoxy. Two problems: first, the draft hole is fairly large and I doubt I could prevent an adhesive from dripping into the stem; second, I'm not sure how to keep the repair job from moving. Really stupid questions probably but I want to make absolutely sure I get this right if I do try; I really like this pipe.
So I use a screw, pull it out, and use epoxy. Two problems: first, the draft hole is fairly large and I doubt I could prevent an adhesive from dripping into the stem; second, I'm not sure how to keep the repair job from moving. Really stupid questions probably but I want to make absolutely sure I get this right if I do try; I really like this pipe.
One method that may cross its intentions and work to ease removal of the broken tenon from the mortise is to put the pipe in the freezer long enough to cause the ebonite to shrink.
That method is used to free-up stuck stems and facilitate removal.
One word of caution: I would be hesitant to use a screw to extract the tenon. Instead something like a paperclip with a small hook fashioned on one end and passed through the draft hole may work better. That way you don't run the risk of splitting the tenon, and potentially damaging the briar.
That method is used to free-up stuck stems and facilitate removal.
One word of caution: I would be hesitant to use a screw to extract the tenon. Instead something like a paperclip with a small hook fashioned on one end and passed through the draft hole may work better. That way you don't run the risk of splitting the tenon, and potentially damaging the briar.
Thanks for the word of caution, Lawrence. The tenon is really snug in there and I may try to freeze the bowl later. That'll definitely have to wait until I can give it my full and undivided attention (ADD + distractions = no one to blame but myself).
Does anyone happen to know of a pipe repair shop in Hawaii that can replace a tenon?
I just received a new Christiano Canadian style pipe in the mail today that was broken in shipment.
Now I know what a child feels like waking up on Christmas morning to see the bike he wanted was not under the tree. :crying:
RC
I just received a new Christiano Canadian style pipe in the mail today that was broken in shipment.
Now I know what a child feels like waking up on Christmas morning to see the bike he wanted was not under the tree. :crying:
RC
Being a Canadian, there's a significant chance that the shank was cracked when the tenon snapped off.
Check by wetting the END of the shank---its face---with a smear of plain water, then blow on it and watch the water disappear/evaporate. If there's a crack it will show up as a dark line, and remain dark for several seconds longer than the surrounding wood.
If it's cracked, I'd see about returning it or similar. Oval shanks are difficult to band well.
George!!
And Steve O'Neill lives in Hawaii. Top drawer pipe guy.
He said he lived in Hawaii, not Montreal or Tranna!
And Steve O'Neill lives in Hawaii. Top drawer pipe guy.
You wouldn't know how I could reach him, would you?
By the way, I did the water test on the shank, didn't see anything. I think I got lucky.
RC
By the way, I did the water test on the shank, didn't see anything. I think I got lucky.
RC
I would send it to Walker Pipe Repair. I sent an XXL Brian Ruthenberg to him with a broken tenon. The repair could not have been completed any better. Mike Myers does all of the repairs for Walker with excellent results.
Rick Farrer is very good as well he trades under the name Briarville Pipe Repairs and he is based down in Florida. He does a lot of stuff for me and I think he is probably the best.
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