Here's some information that was discussed on SF, and which seems to fit the scope of this thread...
Steve Laug May 5, 2011 03:56 PM
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Removing Oxidization on Vulcanite Stems – A compilation of tricks
Removing Oxidization on Vulcanite Stems – A compilation of tricks
I have compiled the methods of removing oxidization from vulcanite stems that those who responded to the original thread on stem cleaning listed. I have tried to arrange them by the main component in the process. You will note that several of the categories overlap and are combined in the processes. Hopefully this will prove to be a helpful reference to those who venture into the realm of cleaning and polishing stems. The methods are to be used at the risk (LOL!) of the amateur pipe “refurbisher”!
There are those who use a pre-soak before using micro mesh pads or sand paper. There are two main categories of pre-soak – bleach and OxyClean. There are two additional pre-soaks that were mentioned – Goo Gone and Simply Green. All have adherents that swear by their choice of method.
1. Bleach Method:
- Mix bleach and water (50/50) to remove the oxidation – it does cause pitting on the stem. Sand and buff with Tripoli and white diamond. When using the bleach method, carefully coat any stamping or symbol on the stem with Vaseline to protect it.
- For heavy oxidation removal I usually use bleach. I believe the reason some stems come out of the bleach pitted is because they have a high content of sulphur or fillers. I have been told by a former executive of an American pipe manufacturer that one of their stem suppliers was known to add filler material to a batch of vulcanite to stretch it.
- Tried Bleach and did not like that it seemed to really soften the surface and create a roughened surface.
- Straight chlorine bleach unmixed for a soak and then it is taken to the buffer. It has the added advantage of sterilizing the interior of the stem also.
2. OxyClean Method:
- Soak in OxyClean and hot water and then use micromesh pads to remove softened oxidation. Repeat this as often as necessary in the process. Then it takes a trip to the buffer.
- As for heavy oxidation removal I usually use bleach but recently tried Oxy-clean. Oxy-clean seems not to clean as deeply as the bleach-only removing what’s on the surface. Still experimenting with it. I believe the reason some stems come out of the bleach pitted is because they have a high content of sulphur or fillers. I have been told by a former executive of an American pipe manufacturer that one of their stem suppliers was known to add filler material to a batch of vulcanite to stretch it.
- Oxy-clean seems not to clean as deeply as the bleach-only removing what’s on the surface. Still experimenting with it
- I have had my best results with oxyclean and micromesh as well. Least amount of material removed for greatest effect in removing green/brown oxidation with the least effort going forward.
- For some reason I've found that different vulcanite stems react to the same oxidation removal method differently. In most cases, I soak them straight in bleach for 24 hours and then I use wet sand paper (about 250 grit). I then wipe them off and usually apply a coat of "Goo Gone". I let it dry and wet sand them again with 500 grit. The next step is Brown Tripoli on the buffer and then red jewellers rouge. The last step is carnuba. I've had very positive success with this procedure even with extremely oxidized stems.
3. Goo Gone:
- For some reason I've found that different vulcanite stems react to the same oxidation removal method differently. In most cases, I soak them straight in bleach for 24 hours and then I use wet sand paper (about 250 grit). I then wipe them off and usually apply a coat of "Goo Gone". I let it dry and wet sand them again with 500 grit. The next step is Brown tripoli on the buffer and then red jewelers rouge. The last step is carnuba. I've had very positive success with this procedure even with extremely oxidized stems.
4. Simple Green:
- Simple Green works well also as does various chrome and metal polishes. Finer, I think, and so you can get a bit of a more intense shine from it.
- "Simple green” and it is the best thing i have ever used. Soak for an hour or so full strength, rinse off with warm water and you are ready to buff/polish. If a stem is really nasty, will also use a magic eraser.
- I soak them in 100% Simple Green for a couple of hours. Remove, wipe with a rag and repeat if needed. When done I wipe down the outside and run a pipe cleaner through the inside soaked with alcohol (Everclear), then buff with Brown Tripoli, Red Tripoli, White Diamond and finally a bit of Carnuba Wax. Brand new
- I have tried Simple Green full strength and soaks of various lengths with limited results
Others use a variety of stem polishes or cleaning polishes to remove the oxidization. These include cleaning kits as well as some other non-conventional polishes. I have included Mr. Clean Magic Erasers in this category though some might argue it should go with the Microfibre materials. I find though that it is in essence a polishing product and thus fits well in this category.
1. Walker Briarworks Stem Cleaning Kit: (also other stem polishes)
- The Walker Briarworks stem cleaning kit comes with a polishing compound that has instructions on the website for proper application and use. Many have used it with success. Most find that it works well on less green stems.
2. Other stem polishes:
- Denicare Mouth piece polish, Outwest Pipe Stem Scrub, Brebbia Pipe and Mouthpiece Polish, Dunhill Mouth piece polish. These are applied, left to dry and then buffed off with a soft cloth. They seem to work well in maintaining a clean stem but are less effective in removing the oxidization.
3. Flitz:
- Flitz is a polish that is similar in application to the Walker Briar Works kit, but is a bit more effective according to those who use it regularly.
- Stems treated with Flitz will remain un-oxidized for approximately 18 months to two years before needing the red Tripoli / Flitz treatment again according to several proponents.
4. Toothpaste:
- Crest tooth paste (Colgate as well) and a soft tooth brush is used to scrub the stem. The microabrasives in the tooth paste works well to remove the oxidization. It requires lots of scrubbing.
- One proponent of this method has written this regarding his process:
1) Submerge offending stem into hot water (just off the boil), to bring all the oxidisation to the surface.
2) Apply a thin coating of toothpaste (a mild abrasive that I don't mind putting near my mouth!!)
3) Rub vigorously with the rough side of a green plastic scouring sponge, (usually used to wash up dishes)
4) Keep rubbing...and then some!! Apply more toothpaste as necessary
5) Finish by polishing with olive oil.
5. Magic Eraser: (polishing compound)
- Mr. Clean Magic Eraser or a knock-off wetted with water removes oxidation thoroughly without visible loss of material and without scratches according to several of the respondents to this thread. It is a melamine micro abrasive and once it has been used and the stem is dried it should be followed by polish as the stem is left smooth but with a matte finish. Regular ebonite polish brings it to a good shine then quickly and easily.
- Something else that can be used with some success is automotive polishing compound (not rubbing compound). It achieves about the same result as Magic Eraser.
Others skip all the pre-soak and scrubbing and polishing and attack the problem head on with sandpaper and micromesh pads. Others use the soaks above and then proceed to the sanding. Many combine the processes and find that in the combination they have a tool that works for them.
One respondent says: “The only way I've ever found to do a first class job is to simply treat green stems as having a new stem "inside" them, and re-carving to whatever depth is necessary to reach it. Then build a new finish the same way it would be done for a new pipe.”
1. Micromesh pads:
- A variety of pads with the following grits - 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000 are all used by various respondents. The suggestion is to keep the stem wet while working on it. Many use all 9 grits for badly oxidized stems. In between each grit it is suggested that the stem is dried to see if it's ready to move up to the next pad. Look for any vestiges of green. Stay with the coarse grits until all the brown-tan-green is gone. The change that occurs between the 6000 and 8000 with respect to shine is amazing. After finishing with the 12000 the only thing left is the buffer for carnauba or rubbed with a bit polish.
- Periodic maintenance of the stems has been reasonably easy using the 2 finest grit pads rather than the buffer with white diamond.
2. Sandpaper:
- Remove oxidation with 400, 500 or 600 grit sand paper, depending on the condition of the oxidization. Remove scratches with consecutive grits up to 2500 (depending on the pipe though).
- Others have used nail polishing files that have four grades of "sandpaper" on a thin bar of Styrofoam. These can be purchased in the cosmetics department of the local drug store. They have also used them for removing tooth marks.
After the removal work, whether by one method or another, those who have the tools move to either buffers, drills with buffing pads or Dremels to do the final polishing of the stem. Some of the respondents did not feel this was a necessary step after the use of the micromesh pads. But many still took the final trip to the buffer to finish the work.
1. Dremel:
One respondent writes about his process using the Dremel as follows:
- “Even if you use manual methods to remove the big hunks of green-brown oxidation, I recommend use of a variable-speed Dremel for the final polishing step(s). These devices are darned near bullet-proof and are quite inexpensive bought used on eBay. Mine, for instance, came with a bazillion little Dremel and Dremel-compatible tools and cost about $35.00 delivered.”
- “I'll use anything from Oxi-Clean on toothbrushes to this strange German wet-or-dry sandpaper on thick mylar to Flexi-pads, depending on my mood at the time, to remove the gross top layers of oxidation.”
- “It's critical to examine the stem under magnification. If you see little lumps, then you haven't polished enough off. Those lumps are just covered-over oxidation. And if you see scratches, then you need to use a finer grit to get rid of the scratches. Either the lumps or the scratches will just promote premature oxidation in the future, so get them off now.”
- “Once I have the stem down to a dull shine when dry, and free of lumps or scratches, I'll load up a 3-inch fiber wheel with red Tripoli and polish using my variable-speed Dremel.”
- “Then, to get that mile-deep, totally black mirror finish, I'll load up another 3-inch fibre wheel with Flitz or Blue Magic metal polishing goo.”
2. Buffer:
Others swear by their buffers. Typically the process is as follows:
- Polish with Tripoli, 4in, unstitched muslin 2000rpm.
- Polish with white diamond, unstitched muslin 2000rpm.
- Wax with carnauba, unstitched flannel 1750 rpm.
- Finish by hand buffing with microfibre cloths.
3. Drill:
- I use a drill with some small buffing wheels I got at HD for 7-8 bucks.
Several respondents referred to the use of Olive Oil for stem cleaning and maintenance. The majority though did not see it as a cleaning method as much as an ongoing maintenance product.
1. Olive Oil:
- Give the stem rub down with olive oil after the oxidation is removed and before final finishing. It seems to stop/hinder re-oxidization. It also seems to slow down the process of oxidization at the button end of the stem.
Contributors: Fred, rramstad, Willieg ,olderthandirt, Crichton, WillM, periqueguy, Ozark southpaw, LatakiaLover, Markus1970, Stevethesuperhero, Mr G., TAB, caskwith, torotoro, clovis-man, mostlyclassics, fairlight, ChuckW, OldTom, Hitch, Steve Laug.
