BBB Silver Grain - Stem not flush

[Phiredog]

Just got this BBB Silver Grain model 607 billiard really cheap off eBay. The stem sits strange. Would this have had a trim ring? All the similar models I’ve found online do not. Maybe the stem has been replaced at some point. I wonder if i could sand the stem down to where it mates up nicely, The bit is broken so it wouldn’t devalue it. I’m not interested in having a collector’s piece just a good smoking (and good looking) pipe.

 

[Chasing Embers]

If not a replacement stem, possibly buildup at the bottom of the mortise.

 

[Phiredog]

If not a replacement stem, possibly buildup at the bottom of the mortise.

I checked that initially but will give it another look.

 

[Grangerous]

I own six BBB pipes and two are Christmas Pipes from 1984. I call them a poor man’s matched set. Those each have a decorative trim ring, but I don’t believe that’s what’s missing on your pipe.

It’s difficult to see in your pictures just how well that stem would marry if it were fully inserted. But my first thought is that that stem may not belong to that pipe.

Another BBB example, a 606 SilverGrain without a trim ring. The fit and finish of these older pipes is rather precise.

I hope this helps.

 

[georged]

Once upon a time there was a definitely original BBB stem that seated fine for many years.

Then one day the pipe's owner didn't push it all the way in for some reason. Obstruction, laziness, didn't notice, whatever.

Then crud began to fill the gap.

The crud hardened.

Remove the crud.

The end.


PS --- if the Crud Period was protracted, the wood of the mortise walls past the end of the tenon also swelled, creating a raised ring that will also interfere with proper seating. Fixing that cleanly requires a spendy special tool called a chucking reamer which you won't have. The quick-and-dirty solution is to just twist-sand material off the end of the tenon to smallify it enough to slide past the raised wood ring.

 

[buroak]

Have you scrubbed out the mortise with Everclear and Q-tips? Gunk can be stubborn and its thickness hard to judge. When I have had a pipe with a similar problem, gunk has usually been the culprit.

 

[Phiredog]

Once upon a time there was a definitely original BBB stem that seated fine for many years.

Then one day the pipe's owner didn't push it all the way in for some reason. Obstruction, laziness, didn't notice, whatever.

Then crud began to fill the gap.

The crud hardened.

The end.


PS --- if the Crud Period was protracted, the wood of the mortise walls past the end of the tenon also swelled, creating a raised ring that will also interfere with proper seating. Fixing that cleanly requires a spendy special tool called a chucking reamer which you won't have. The quick-and-dirty solution is to just twist-sand enough material off the end of the tenon to smallify it enough to slide past the raised wood ring.

Thanks for the feedback. What you say makes sense. will try twist sanding.

 

[Phiredog]

Have you scrubbed out the mortise with Everclear and Q-tips? Gunk can be stubborn and its thickness hard to judge. When I have had a pipe with a similar problem, gunk has usually been the culprit.

Will try this before twist sanding.

 

[buroak]

Have you scrubbed out the mortise with Everclear and Q-tips? Gunk can be stubborn and its thickness hard to judge. When I have had a pipe with a similar problem, gunk has usually been the culprit.

Never mind - @georged was faster on the draw and a surer shot.

 

[buroak]

Will try this before twist sanding.

It is non-invasive and needs doing anyway, but George’s advice is ultimately what you need to do. I have seen that ring of raised wood on a pipe that probably sat unused for decades. Everclear won’t remove the wood (thank goodness).

 

[Chasing Embers]

Have you scrubbed out the mortise with Everclear and Q-tips? Gunk can be stubborn and its thickness hard to judge. When I have had a pipe with a similar problem, gunk has usually been the culprit.

+1

Never mind - @georged was faster on the draw and a surer shot.

Nah, you provided the less invasive less likely to cause damage approach.

 

[jpmcwjr]

+1


Nah, you provided the less invasive less likely to cause damage approach.

An even lesser invasive course is the hot water flush, repeated several times when removing hardened crud.

 

[georged]

An even lesser invasive course is the hot water flush, repeated several times when removing hardened crud.

The point of my PS earlier was a heads-up... That even after The Crud is gone, often the stem still won't seat because the wall of the mortise swelled over time from the tenon NOT pressing outwardly on it while being repeatedly getting wet from smoking. The result is a ridge.

Meaning HOW you remove the The Crud---by flushing, swabbing, or scraping---doesn't matter.

The only two options if there is a ridge are to 1) cut it away (which requires a specialized tool); or 2) modify the end of the tenon so it doesn't make contact with the ridge (which can be done with a bit of abrasive and a gentle touch).

#1 is recommended for high grades and collectables, #2 is fine for everything else

 

[condorlover1]

Alternatively you could do as my late Father in Law was want to do and wrap the offending area with electrical tape!

 

[ssjones]

Those gaps can be challenging, without the tool George references, which none of us have.
Q-tips likely won't have any effect (or take you forever).
I have some bristle brushes of various diameters, a few brass. Those, dipped in alcohol have done the trick. But, they will remove wood, so proceed with caution. It's hard to unring that bell if you remove too much.

 

[Phiredog]

After using Q-tips and alcohol, I got these results. Thanks for all the suggestions. I think this was $10 well spent.

 

[sablebrush52]

After using Q-tips and alcohol, I got these results. Thanks for all the suggestions. I think this was $10 well spent.View attachment 345645View attachment 345646View attachment 345643

Good job. The great thing about threads like this is that we get to learn something useful

 

[ssjones]

After using Q-tips and alcohol, I got these results. Thanks for all the suggestions. I think this was $10 well spent.View attachment 345645View attachment 345646View attachment 345643

Great, starting with the least evasive methods is the way to go!

 

[Grangerous]

Next Thread?

Same Pipe?

Tooth-Chatter-Exorcism.

 

[Chasing Embers]

An even lesser invasive course is the hot water flush, repeated several times when removing hardened crud.

It gets to a point that even alcohol won't work and a drill bit on a T handle must be employed.