Bad caking in pipes

[dd951]

I have A couple of older working pipes that were always smoked in A hurry. The cake has built upon the stem side and none at all on the other side. I need your ideas and suggestions on how to make the bad cake go away so the cake will form more uniformly. All ideas will be greatly appreciated

 

[admin]

I think several guys here "are do-it-yourself-ers", but not I. If the pipes are important to you, then send them to a professional pipe restorer to ream them evenly. Or get a reamer and do it yourself.
The risk is going to deep and hitting naked wood, or if you use a knife, carving unevenly.
There are a couple of pipe reamers shown about half way down on this article:

http://pipesmagazine.com/blog/put-that-in-your-pipe/pipe-tools-part-1/

 

[dd951]

Thanks Kevin LOL any advice is better than what I had

 

[hauntedmyst]

This is a no brainer and an easy fix. Just some 400 grit sandpaper and sand the bad cake out. Working carefully, you'll sand it down to even with the good cake, or better yet, down to no cake.

 

[surfmac211]

On this subject what is the best grit of sandpaper yall have found to sand stems? I got a couple pipes that I picked up recently and need a LOT of work.

 

[kcvet67]

dd051,
Having pipes professionally restored (even just cleaned and reamed) can be very pricey. Since you say that these were "working pipes" I'm assuming that you may not want to invest a fortune in them. You might try reaming them out yourself unless they have thin walls. It's not that hard, just takes a little patience.
My favorite reamer is the Senior brand, an adaptation of the old Kleen 'n Reem, but it takes some practice to learn to use it well and is probably not the best tool for this project. I'd recommend a T-handled set of reamers. You'll see them under a variety of brand names (Castleford, Brebbia, etc.) but all are the same. The have a T-shaped handle which can hold any of the 4 different diameter reamers.
Start with the smallest one, if it will go in the chamber completely, ignore it and move up to the next bigger size. Before actually reaming, make sure the insert is completely seated in the handle so that you don't crack the handle. Start out slowly and don't put too much pressure on the reamer. Put more pressure on the side with the thick cake but keep the tool straight up-and-down so that the cutting surfaces stay parallel to the chamber walls. When you get to the bottom, move up to the next bigger size if necessary and repeat.
As Kevin mentioned, it's best not to go down to bare wood. But if you do it's not a particularly great tragedy. ALL briar pipes started out as bare wood. Just make sure that the chamber is reamed out evenly otherwise you will develop hot spots in the bowl and it may burn out. Treat it as you would a brand new pipe and break it in as you normally would. If the first pipe turns out well, move on to the next.
Pipesandcigars.com carries both the Senior Reamer and the T-handle. They're nice folks to deal with and have a wide selection of tobacco at excellent prices. You'll see their link in orange at the bottom left corner of the page under Sponsor Links.
Good luck

 

[dd951]

Hey Hauntedmyst, Talk about A no brainer, I had thought of an ice pick, chisel,butter knife and pocket knife but sandpaper never entered my mind. Yesterday I went into town and got some at Lowes. It did A beautiful job, many thanks for the advice. Now, I have an old moline that was laqured or something, most of it is gone, any ideas about getting rid of the rest of it so I can clean and wax the pipe, again many thanks

 

[dd951]

Hi kcvet67 I have A senior reamer, and you are right, not the best tool for the job, I tood your advice and ordered the t handle, thanks so much

 

[cortezattic]

dd951 asked

I have an old moline that was laqured or something, most of it is gone,

any ideas about getting rid of the rest of it so I can clean and wax the pipe

I think Chuckw once mentioned that he removed a lacquer or gloss finish from a pipe, you might sent him a PM.

You can search eBay for ultra fine grit sandpaper, like in the #1000 - 1200 range, which would probably work well.

While at eBay you can pick up some carnauba wax too; but you'll need a rotary tool (at least), to apply it and buff it out.

 

[igloo]

1000 and 1200 grit are available from any real parts house that mixs automotive paint . I find sand paper from the big box stores to be of low quality . 1000 and 1200 are to be used wet , that is to say with water . These grits are used for polishing . Bronze wool is the absolute best product for wood polishing but it is very expensive . Lustra is a good pipe wax if you have the time . http://www.lustersheen-online.com/xcart/home.php

 

[hauntedmyst]

dd, I don't have any advice for the outside of a pipe. The outside wood of the pipe is something I won't touch with sandpaper. If I can't buff it shiney, off it goes to a professional. That's not to say you couldn't do it, its just not something I'd do to my own pipes without practicing on some crappy ones first.

On this subject what is the best grit of sandpaper yall have found to sand stems? I got a couple pipes that I picked up recently and need a LOT of work.

I use higher grit auto wet dry sandpaper like 800 to 1000 to take off as little as possible and to have to buff as little as possible.

 

[unclearthur]

Most really nasty estates I get respond well to a light scrubbing with Murphy's Oil Soap, and a visit to my buffer. Stems I will first try to clean up with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. If that won't remove the oxidation I use 1200 grit sand paper wet. Then it's off to the buffer .

 

[igloo]

Mentadent tooth paste cuts through stem oxidation like a demon on speed . And leaves the bit minty fresh . Other brands seem not to work as well .