Advice Needed: Setting Up a Buffing Station

[Zartoon]

Greetings

I am interested in setting up a pipe buffing station in my garage. This isn’t for massive restorations. But I have about 25 pipes and I like them looking new. So I’d like to be able to polish and buff my pipes And stems with diamond rouge and carnuba wax once every few months.

Of the lower end bench grinders, they all spin at too high an RPM (3450). I understand you need something in the 1000 RPM range to do this.
What do you all use to dothis with?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Z

 

[Country Bladesmith]

I use the same 3450 rpm buffer that I use for making knives and I haven’t had any issues. The diameter of the wheel will affect your final rpm as well. I use 6” wheels mostly. There was another thread on this a while back. If you don’t have experience with a buffer, you might want to learn on some scrap material. There is a learning curve, and a buffer will snatch things from your hands if you don’t know what you’re doing.

 

[kcghost]

Whatever you do don't buff the nomenclature area of the pipe. Buffers will wipe them away and you will have a no-name pipe on your hands.

 

[BlueMaxx]

Greetings

I am interested in setting up a pipe buffing station in my garage. This isn’t for massive restorations. But I have about 25 pipes and I like them looking new. So I’d like to be able to polish and buff my pipes And stems with diamond rouge and carnuba wax once every few months.

Of the lower end bench grinders, they all spin at too high an RPM (3450). I understand you need something in the 1000 RPM range to do this.
What do you all use to dothis with?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Z

I have toyed with the idea too, especially once I work through a back log of clocks awaiting my attention...
I will probably just bite the bullet and get the Foredom b-1 buffer.
It will be able to do double duty with clock procedures using the flexible shaft attachment.

The time and frustration and the results will be much better vs. trying to make a bench grinder fitted to do the job

I worked in Industrial Sales for a long while, and made my own sharpening station by jury rigging up things, in the end I bought a Tormek and cursed myself for not doing so from the beginning.

M.BL Bench Lathe, Domestic and Int’l Models

Powerful, variable speed bench lathe in compact size for use at the workbench.

www.foredom.net

Here is a very good read...lots of real life experience speaking.

Buffing & Polishing - Stem and Briar

I am also pleased to offer estate pipe services and sales. I have several reconditioned estate pipes and accessories, as well as offer professional restoration and rejuvenation of your beloved briars.

www.stemandbriar.com

I can only tell you from being a woodworker and now antique clock repair guy, buy the right tool for the right job....
Buy quality, cry once
Buy crap, cry all the time.

There is no dollar amount you can put on frustration and worse yet get so discouraged you walk away from what could be a satisfying pastime. Merging two loves, pipe smoking and spending time in a nice workshop restoring one.

I look forward to doing so....



Now I know a lot of folks are going to cry "flag on the play" by me saying this, and will give some great and experienced alternate advice with setting up for much less by purchasing reducer bushings, different wheels, and an adjustable speed bench grinder.

Lowes has a Delta 6" adjustable speed for like 120 bucks...but you'll still need to have more space and purchase an assortment of odds and ends that would put you right there with a Foredom that would be ready to go, and appropriate for the job.

Not too mention the space issue, my shop is nearly a shoebox so every square inch counts.

I guess it just depends on how deep down the rabbit hole you would like to go.

And thats cool, whatever floats your boat and however deep your wallet is.

M

 

[Slowpony]

I have an auto buffer. I wonder if that would work. I’d probably need a vice or something. ?

 

[Duke of Erinmore]

Of the lower end bench grinders, they all spin at too high an RPM (3450). I understand you need something in the 1000 RPM range to do this.
What do you all use to dothis with?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Dear Zartoon,

I have quite a low-end buffing station and it does its job. I have acquired a used grinding machine (350 W, 2800 rpm) for 25 euros, removed the grinding discs and mounted it on a case (10 euros from the flea market). Then I have purchased some buffing wheels and waxes.

Some experiences I can share:

• When you use a fast machine like me, make sure you use softer wheels
• Designate a wheel to every type of wax and reserve one that gets no wax for the final polish.
• Use a face mask (not uncommon in these times anyway, but a filter is recommended) and goggles, it gets dusty. Covering walls and floor around your station will save you time cleaning.
• A lamp is useful. I chose one with clips so I can change the position to illuminate both wheels.

And that's how it looks like:

 

[Duke of Erinmore]

If you don’t have experience with a buffer, you might want to learn on some scrap material. There is a learning curve, and a buffer will snatch things from your hands if you don’t know what you’re doing.

This is an important piece of advice! Also when you try out new waxes. I have ruined a really nice Brebbia Palladio by a minute of overdosing a harder wax.

 

[Zartoon]

Thank you

 

[clickklick]

I run 6" wheels at 1725 rpm.
Old dryer motors work well.

 

[mso489]

It's easy to overdo it with buffers and reamers, so keep that in mind. When people start removing the stamping and finish from pipes, you know that isn't necessary. The brand new look is much overrated. You can do a good job of keeping your pipes bright by hand with a stiff and then a soft cloth. One member uses a shoe shine buffer for the occasional bright finish, which I think is probably softer than a regular shop wheel. A real shop buffer tempts you do overdo it, so go slow.

 

[Duke of Erinmore]

It's easy to overdo it with buffers and reamers, so keep that in mind. When people start removing the stamping and finish from pipes, you know that isn't necessary. The brand new look is much overrated. You can do a good job of keeping your pipes bright by hand with a stiff and then a soft cloth. One member uses a shoe shine buffer for the occasional bright finish, which I think is probably softer than a regular shop wheel. A real shop buffer tempts you do overdo it, so go slow.

I agree mostly - I suppose I would not have set up the station if it was not for refurbishing really nasty but cheap pipes from eBay.

On the other hand - now when I work on them, I always look in the cabinet which of my smokers could use a shining, and then it goes really quick. Last time for example I shined all silver rings, which in former times took me at least 10 min per pipe with toothpaste - now I give them 20 sec on the buffer and alas...