That’s such a good story. I must admit I felt pangs of disappointment when I heard he was closing Kent St but he is a true journeyman of the industry, 40 years or so.
Yes, no formal training at all.
Worked at a restaurant early in his time in Sydney as a dishwasher/kitchen hand and asked the chef Tony Bilson(another Sydney culinary legend) if he could try his hand at cooking.
The rest is history.
In the early days of his 1st 2 restaurants, he did all the cooking with his then wife as his assistant in the kitchen.
My nickname for him then was ”the slowest chef in Sydney” as we often didn’t finish our meals until midnight.
But we happily waited, as his food was so revolutionary for the times.
His creativity then was amazing - a completely different degustation menu on every occasion.
When asked to repeat a memorable dish, his oft reply was “I’ve moved on“
He once did a special dinner for me for a table of 8.
Every dish featured truffles or caviar, most with both.
We had the entire restaurant to ourselves, with the full complement of his staff.
Despite the cost of the meal, I doubt if he made any money on the night, given it was a Sunday night - he would have to pay his staff weekend penalty rates.