1920 Amber-stemmed Dunhill Without a White Spot

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May 8, 2017
1,660
1,859
Sugar Grove, IL, USA
Revisiting A Closed Topic —

In August 2020, I posted about a cased 1920 amber-stemmed Dunhill billiard I had purchased which lacked the characteristic White Spot on the stem. It was originally purchased from Mappin & Webb, a Parisian jeweler. A friend, Anthony Sacco, mentioned that he thought he had seen a pair of early amber-stemmed Dunhills with the spot on the tenon, rather than on the exterior of the mouthpiece. Fred Hanna told me that he, too, had seen one. Rich Esserman said that he had never seen nor heard of such a pipe, but that since the registration on this early pipe was perfect, he felt it was probably original. Unfortunately, the stem on my pipe wasn’t budging.

Being amber and not knowing for certain whether the tenon was Vulcanite or bone, I didn’t dare try to exert much force. So, for the last four years, I’d occasionally try twisting the stem, but it wasn’t moving. Yesterday, I decided to try a trick I’ve used in the past with restorations that have stuck stems. Sometimes, tar can build up between the shank and the mouthpiece, forming a sort of glue. I didn’t think that was likely in this case because the pipe was lightly smoked, but I tried anyway. I used Glide dental floss, which is made from GoreTex. It’s very strong, slippery, and thin. In spite of there being no apparent gap, the floss made it in. I worked it around and after removing it, I tried a little twist and…”click”. Not the sound of breakage, but a tiny bit of movement. Maybe 1/2-degree of rotation, but it was something.

I put the pipe in its Ventage case and sealed it in a Ziploc, then put it in my freezer. This was something I‘d tried several times before, but with no luck. This morning, I removed it from the freezer and gave it a twist. Maybe 5 degrees of rotation now and there was now a gap of about 1/16”. That certainly suggested it was a Vulcanite tenon, since it didn’t tighten when I reversed it. I scratched at the tenon using a dental instrument and it didn’t seem hard, like bone. At this point, I had no choice but to apply more force that I’d been willing to use in the past, but the stem needed to either go back in or come out. Plus, I now had 90% certainty that it was a vulcanite tenon. As gently as possible, I twisted and voilà, it was out.

What did I find? A spot! Like many vintage Dunhills, the white spot is now a buttery yellow, but a spot. One thing that surprised me was that I had expected that if there was a dot, it would have been at 12 o’clock. I have understood that originally, the dot was to assist owners with orienting their stems properly, rather than rotated 180 degrees. This one is at about 2 o’clock. So, maybe the white spot has always been just a trademark after all.

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sablebrush52

The Bard Of Barlings
Jun 15, 2013
21,005
50,336
Southern Oregon
jrs457.wixsite.com
In August 2020, I posted about a cased 1920 amber-stemmed Dunhill billiard I had purchased which lacked the characteristic White Spot on the stem. It was originally purchased from Mappin & Webb, a Parisian jeweler. A friend, Anthony Sacco, mentioned that he thought he had seen a pair of early amber-stemmed Dunhills with the spot on the tenon, rather than on the exterior of the mouthpiece. Fred Hanna told me that he, too, had seen one. Rich Esserman said that he had never seen nor heard of such a pipe, but that since the registration on this early pipe was perfect, he felt it was probably original. Unfortunately, the stem on my pipe wasn’t budging.

Being amber and not knowing for certain whether the tenon was Vulcanite or bone, I didn’t dare try to exert much force. So, for the last four years, I’d occasionally try twisting the stem, but it wasn’t moving. Yesterday, I decided to try a trick I’ve used in the past with restorations that have stuck stems. Sometimes, tar can build up between the shank and the mouthpiece, forming a sort of glue. I didn’t think that was likely in this case because the pipe was lightly smoked, but I tried anyway. I used Glide dental floss, which is made from GoreTex. It’s very strong, slippery, and thin. In spite of there being no apparent gap, the floss made it in. I worked it around and after removing it, I tried a little twist and…”click”. Not the sound of breakage, but a tiny bit of movement. Maybe 1/2-degree of rotation, but it was something.

I put the pipe in its Ventage case and sealed it in a Ziploc, then put it in my freezer. This was something I‘d tried several times before, but with no luck. This morning, I removed it from the freezer and gave it a twist. Maybe 5 degrees of rotation now and there was now a gap of about 1/16”. That certainly suggested it was a Vulcanite tenon, since it didn’t tighten when I reversed it. I scratched at the tenon using a dental instrument and it didn’t seem hard, like bone. At this point, I had no choice but to apply more force that I’d been willing to use in the past, but the stem needed to either go back in or come out. Plus, I now had 90% certainty that it was a vulcanite tenon. As gently as possible, I twisted and voilà, it was out.

What did I find? A spot! Like many vintage Dunhills, the white spot is now a buttery yellow, but a spot. One thing that surprised me was that I had expected that if there was a dot, it would have been at 12 o’clock. I have understood that originally, the dot was to assist owners with orienting their stems properly, rather than rotated 180 degrees. This one is at about 2 o’clock. So, maybe the white spot has always been just a trademark after all.

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Fabulous story with an exquisite pipe and a happy outcome. Can't beat that. And what a testament to the importance of that White Dot to Dunhill at that time.

You got lucky with the freezing and turning, that the amber didn't snap. It's brittle enough at room temperatures.

When I had a similar problem, RonnieB advised me on how to inject alcohol, a few drips at a time, into the seam between the stem and shank, to loosen up the tars that had built up. After about 45 minutes of this drip, drip, drip, I gave the amber stem a careful twist and it twisted right out like the day it was made.
 
May 8, 2017
1,660
1,859
Sugar Grove, IL, USA
Fabulous story with an exquisite pipe and a happy outcome. Can't beat that. And what a testament to the importance of that White Dot to Dunhill at that time.

You got lucky with the freezing and turning, that the amber didn't snap. It's brittle enough at room temperatures.

When I had a similar problem, RonnieB advised me on how to inject alcohol, a few drips at a time, into the seam between the stem and shank, to loosen up the tars that had built up. After about 45 minutes of this drip, drip, drip, I gave the amber stem a careful twist and it twisted right out like the day it was made.
Yep. The freezing temp certainly added to my worry as well. After my initial success with the 1/2-degree movement, I allowed it to warm to room temp before proceeding further. I considered alcohol, but worried that it would damage the original finish. I think I may have talked to Ronnie about this pipe on a Zoom that I host, back in 2020. I haven’t been very active on it in the last couple of years myself, but when I have been on, I haven’t seen Ronnie. I hope he’s well. Nice man.
 

BingBong

Lifer
Apr 26, 2024
1,483
6,362
London UK
Without intending hijack, I should mention that Mappin & Webb are a bit of a British institution and have been Crown jewellers since 2015. Initially they started in Sheffield making cutlery - my regular dining knife comes from a set that my grandparents used their whole married life afaik (m. 1917) and is still perfectly serviceable and sharp enough to cut a sandwich or steak, at a push, and has never been sharpened.

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Stunning Dunhill, btw.
 

runscott

Lifer
Jun 3, 2020
1,294
2,842
Washington State
Fabulous story with an exquisite pipe and a happy outcome. Can't beat that. And what a testament to the importance of that White Dot to Dunhill at that time.

You got lucky with the freezing and turning, that the amber didn't snap. It's brittle enough at room temperatures.

When I had a similar problem, RonnieB advised me on how to inject alcohol, a few drips at a time, into the seam between the stem and shank, to loosen up the tars that had built up. After about 45 minutes of this drip, drip, drip, I gave the amber stem a careful twist and it twisted right out like the day it was made.
For meerschaums with stuck amber stems I normally soak a pipe cleaner and push the end past the connection. If it doesn't work the first time I do it up to two more times. But I had a stuck one arrive yesterday and I could get a pipe cleaner through the bit opening, so it went straight into the freezer. I was surprised that it unscrewed with no effort.